Who has replaced their lifters? 5.3 T

[blackhawk17]

Ok, so 05 Tahoe, 5.3 T, 170,000 miles. I know this problem has been talked about on every Chevy forum there is, but NONE of the ones I have come across have been much help to me, as I have already done the flushes and I'm not looking to supercharge it or make 500 hp.

The tick that I have is from the number 1 cylinder, and only occurs when the engine is warm and at idle, but is intermittent. Now, I have run a flush and changed the oil twice now. I typically have used Valvoline full-synthetic and the Fram synthetic filter, but now switched to Castrol 15,000 mile synthetic and got the Bosch high-mileage synthetic filter. I have always changed my oil right at 5,000 miles. After about 500-1,000 miles each time the tick comes back. Historically I have always run a quart of Lucas with my oil changes, and so thought maybe that is what caused the problem. I have stopped doing that with no improvement.

I am guessing that I probably actually need to replace the lifters altogether since the usual prescription isn't helping. There's no performance loss or anything, it's just loud and embarrasses my wife when she's in traffic and people look at her funny. Otherwise it's a nice truck. Many would say just drive it, and that is what is happening now. But I'm looking for a solution.

So, I'm looking for costs associated with replacing those lifters. I would do that myself, but I'd like to know if I need to replace the cam as well. Would it be smarter to just rebuild the top end? If so, how much would that cost to have someone do? Those kinds of questions. We intend to keep this truck for a while longer, so as long as it's cheaper than a new engine I'm probably game. This is not going to be some high-performance machine, so I'm not interested in flat-top pistons, turbos, superchargers, etc. At most, I would put a slightly larger cam in it if it has to be replaced anyway with the lifters.

Thanks for the input.

 

[dantheman]

so lifters on an LS based engine require the heads to come off. If the truck has a bunch of miles it wouldnt hurt to have the heads gone over at a machine shop while they are off. Valve job and some vale springs since you are planning on boost. Last time i did it the machine shop charged me around 300 to do a full clean up, magnaflux, 7 angle valve job and install my new valve springs.

doing the cam "while your in there" doesnt really apply for doing lifters since you dont have to touch the front case at all to take the heads/lifters out.

last time i did a set of lifters i think it ran me a total of around 440-470 in parts (its been like 4 years since i did it). Lifters were the new from GM LS7 ones, new LS2 trays, MLS GM head gasket, arp head bolts (which arent a bad idea if you are going boost).

probably want to do plugs while you are there as well as intake manifold gaskets and anything else you come across that looks suspect. id make the determination on the cam once you get get heads off since you will have a good view of it and if you see any scoring on it order another one. otherwise id wait do to the cam until you are doing the supercharger since you likely have to pull the balancer to pin it you are most of the way to getting the water pump/front cover off to do the cam and then might as well do an oil pump too.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Valve job and some vale springs since you are planning on boost.

You read that wrong

I'm not looking to supercharge it or make 500 hp.

 

[blackhawk17]

Yeah, definitely NOT planning on boosting or anything but I get your point. So hopefully it won't need a cam, but I'll have to give it a good look over and hopefully it'll be alright. Thanks.

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[dantheman]

whoops my bad on that.

still if its high mileage doing a set of stock valve springs isnt a bad idea for longevity especially if you are in there.

 

[04ctd]

waste of time to put AFM lifters back in it, I would do a complete AFM delete kit and a real cam back in it.

the AFM cams are limited lift (low performance?) due to the weight of the AFM lifters.

the various trucks forums have much more info on AFM & what to do.

this Aussie knows some stuff:
http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthrea...-hardware-amp-fitting-a-larger-camshaft/page2

 

[blackhawk17]

It's a T code not a Z. I don't have AFM.

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[2002DenaliXL]

I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but if your truck is 11-12 years old and 170xxx miles, I would be leery of the O-Ring on the oil pump pick up tube as well. This is a failure point. Since your in there with the lifters, do it the right way. Cam, Lifters, valve springs, timing chain, oil pump, water pump, hoses and belts at a min. It's a little up front but worth it in the long run. Especially due to age and miles. Might want to look at a reman to drop in there.

I am finishing up that swap/upgrade right now to my Denali XL. However once I started what a Pandora's box I opened. Hoses, balancer, TBSS intake swap, Throttle body upgrade, Coolant swap, knock sensors, power steering pump, hydro boost upgrade, etc, etc, etc. Once I think I get to the finish line, I find out more is needed. UGH. But hey, it is still much cheaper then buying a new truck. Besides it a cool ride.....

 

[retiredsparky]

I second the above comment about the o-ring. The clue is that the lifter only ticks when warm and at idle. The oil is thinnest when warm, oil pump output pressure is lowest at idle, especially when warm. So combine that with a flat o-ring, you got lifter tick. You might be able to fix it with just an o-ring and maybe an oil pump if you want.

 

[1_8TTony]

I replaced lifters in these engines quite a few times. First time, didn't know what I was doing, but my level of confidence was high and my tool arsenal was adequate. Now I can do this type of repair in a matter of hours (provided there's no broken exhaust bolts stuck in the heads).

One question the OP asked was about the cost. Well, to replace a single offending lifter, doing the work yourself, it could be done really inexpensively. Guy asked me one time If I'd do the work on a Suburban saying money is tight and he had to scrape up money just to get the cheapest quality parts. I felt bad for the guy. Ended up telling him to have a cold 12 pack ready for when I'm finished with the work.

Online shopping, he got:
8 Lifters....................$80
1 head gasket..............45
Head bolt set...............16


Intake manifold gasket was resealed with cheap sealant. Exhaust manifold is a metal shim type of gasket and was reused. Coolant was vacuumed out of the engine with a CLEAN shopvac and reused.

Keep in mind, this would be the cheapest route to go, but to do it 'right', all lifters and all gaskets should be replaced along with (obviously) new head bolts, oil psi sensor, cam shaft position sensor, both knock sensors with new pig tail harness, chemically seal the knock sensor covers onto the top engine cover plate to prevent water from filling up in the knock sensor cavities, seal the plate onto the engine (again, because of water), get rid of those stupid foam pads that trap heat underneath the intake manifold........and since the passenger side cylinder head will be off the engine, this would be an excellent time to replace the heater core "quick connect" fittings.....because those things always break. This is the expensive route, but it's the way it should be done.