Added Subwoofer, not getting the results expected

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KyleF

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Hi everyone, new here but not new to playing with my cars.



I had an old Alpine PDR-M65 (650W RMS 2Ohm)and Kick L712” (4Ohm DVC wired to 2Ohm at the box) with box sitting around my house that was originally in an ATS I had many years ago. Randomly, I decided it would be cool to put it in my Tahoe now that my kids are a bit older and using the 3rd row isn’t as much of a concern as it used to be.

With that said, I did some basic research to see how people were tapping into the wiring to get a signal. The rest is pretty common. I decided to follow this video:

Video Followed

So, to make this short I basically did exactly as you see in the video except, I used a Kicker 46KSILOC2 Line out converter to tap into the wires on the B-Pillar.

Kicker LOC used

Being how I am, I tend to check the function of things as I go. So, after installing the LOC, I tested the voltage at the RCA cable. I saw the AC voltage varying, but staying under 1V. Thought this was low, but worked for the guy in the video. I made the decision to move on as I saw it was providing a signal. Guy in the video didn’t show output voltage

To no surprise, once everything was hooked up, it seems I have a signal issue. With the remote gain know to max and the gain on the Amp at max, it just isn’t “loud” like you would expect a L7 to be when supplied by 650W and setting in a decent enclosure. When the volume was increased, it also seems to reach a level where it cuts the signal further as if it is intentionally dropping it.

First, it seems like the low voltage is just too low for the Amp to bring up. Knowing I am supposed to have close to 650W into 2 Ohms, I would anticipate to see Voltage at the Amp output on the order of 3oV+ give or take. I am not seeing that, If I remember correctly, I was seeing 19V max. This would be on the order of 200W of output and it kind of sounds that way being this is a power-hungry speaker. This is vintage 2014 L7, so I believe the speaker has an RMS rating in the 700W. All of the components have been kept inside, climate controlled, out of the sun, etc. I saw no issues with equipment condition. IU have done some reading, but I can’t see where others have reported signal issues

With that said, is the spot I tapped already a low voltage signal? If it is, should I avoid an LOC and just get the speak to RCAs?

Should I tap somewhere else to get a higher voltage signal?

Is this just a bad LOC. I have used it with the ground connected and not connected (LED indicator on/off respectively) with no change in signal.

Is there a possibility the LOC is bad?

The LOC I have is not adjustable, do I need a model that is?
 

K2 Kaiju

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KyleF

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The spot you tapped has a processed signal that pulls bass to protect the speaker at high volume. If you tap the harness right at the Bose amp (its in the back driver side by the jack/tools), you will get a better sub signal. This post may help find the tap...

Post in thread '2015 Tahoe LTZ aftermarket amp and sub install' https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...market-amp-and-sub-install.79920/post-1626415



Thanks, I can check the tap there and take voltage readings.
 

K2 Kaiju

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Try just replacing the front corner speakers with the Kicker KSC270s first as it makes a noticeable improvement in the stock bass response. I decided to skip the sub after doing mine, and the space savings is a big bonus on the short body. Cheap and easy under an hour job. You can always add the sub later if you need more...
 

Doubeleive

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Hi everyone, new here but not new to playing with my cars.



I had an old Alpine PDR-M65 (650W RMS 2Ohm)and Kick L712” (4Ohm DVC wired to 2Ohm at the box) with box sitting around my house that was originally in an ATS I had many years ago. Randomly, I decided it would be cool to put it in my Tahoe now that my kids are a bit older and using the 3rd row isn’t as much of a concern as it used to be.

With that said, I did some basic research to see how people were tapping into the wiring to get a signal. The rest is pretty common. I decided to follow this video:

Video Followed

So, to make this short I basically did exactly as you see in the video except, I used a Kicker 46KSILOC2 Line out converter to tap into the wires on the B-Pillar.

Kicker LOC used

Being how I am, I tend to check the function of things as I go. So, after installing the LOC, I tested the voltage at the RCA cable. I saw the AC voltage varying, but staying under 1V. Thought this was low, but worked for the guy in the video. I made the decision to move on as I saw it was providing a signal. Guy in the video didn’t show output voltage

To no surprise, once everything was hooked up, it seems I have a signal issue. With the remote gain know to max and the gain on the Amp at max, it just isn’t “loud” like you would expect a L7 to be when supplied by 650W and setting in a decent enclosure. When the volume was increased, it also seems to reach a level where it cuts the signal further as if it is intentionally dropping it.

First, it seems like the low voltage is just too low for the Amp to bring up. Knowing I am supposed to have close to 650W into 2 Ohms, I would anticipate to see Voltage at the Amp output on the order of 3oV+ give or take. I am not seeing that, If I remember correctly, I was seeing 19V max. This would be on the order of 200W of output and it kind of sounds that way being this is a power-hungry speaker. This is vintage 2014 L7, so I believe the speaker has an RMS rating in the 700W. All of the components have been kept inside, climate controlled, out of the sun, etc. I saw no issues with equipment condition. IU have done some reading, but I can’t see where others have reported signal issues

With that said, is the spot I tapped already a low voltage signal? If it is, should I avoid an LOC and just get the speak to RCAs?

Should I tap somewhere else to get a higher voltage signal?

Is this just a bad LOC. I have used it with the ground connected and not connected (LED indicator on/off respectively) with no change in signal.

Is there a possibility the LOC is bad?

The LOC I have is not adjustable, do I need a model that is?
yaa that video is pretty much use less
your going to want like a LCI2 pro and connect it to the amp output in the rear drivers side as noted above
using the LCI allows you to restore the bass signal and tune it somewhat as desired. that will also give you some bass control if your amp does not have one already.
a simple line converter is going to result in sounding like doggsh*t
 

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