real time install on oil leak fixes and front diff carrier bearing install

[VikingTrad3r]

holy crap. i think i got it.

for the life of me i just couldn't get anything to work when setting up backlash. just really sloppy in the case.
turns out, i never put the bearing race in for one side LOLOLOL. that seriously messed with me.

anyway, all good now, have my backlash set to .007 which is within spec at .006 to .010

now to button up the case.

btw, case bolts are 46nm or 34 ftlbs.

 

[VikingTrad3r]

ok got it back mounted into the truck. very frustrating that there does not seem to be much in the way of torque specs available via google search.

 

[VikingTrad3r]

found some torque specs here (along with a full guide)

http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=145052

the nuts that are on teh bottom fo the pitman and idler arms joints to the drag link aka center link are 46ft lbs. i put blue loctite on them as no way my wife is going to have them come off. and i gave it an extra little push past the click.

flange bolts are 58 ft lbs.

 

[VikingTrad3r]

all done. my front diff is much quieter though I have to say its not dead silent. i was having the groan when you give it throttle at slow speeds, which is indicative of carrier bearing failure on these diffs. and when i opened it up, i found the lock tab had broken, which is classic 8.25 front diff failure which starts the process of the carrier bearing backing off then the whole thing self destructs over time unless you fix it.

alllll i did was replace the carrier bearings and the oil seals. i didn't touch the pinion. it felt fine and i doubt that was it. the noise is MUCH quieter so it has to have been the carriers in some way or another. perhaps i didn't set the preload enough? i adjusted the lock tabs so that I got the right pattern on the teeth and that was it.

anyway, i know its not doing any damage and i am happy.

on the oil pan and oil cooler seal, so far, its dry, but i have only driven it 20klm. i noticed an extra 10 psi of oil pressure, interesting! it was leaking like a seive in the past so maybe it was enough to lose pressure!

its runnng strong, i picked this truck up with 320K klm ( 200k miles) for 5k and it runs amazingly well. the undercarriage was absolutely disgusting from years of grease and oil and tranny fluid leaking from the cooling lines.

i noticed while i was under there the rubber grease boot on the pitman arm has a blown seal, because i put too much grease in it.

This truck is so great and it looks great!

Waiting to see if i am going to be doing the valve cover and oil pressure sending unit....have to see if its still leaking.

 

[about20ninj45]

Congrats bud. Whic video method did you follow? The 2nd video method seemed like to much work if your not doing anything with the front diff

 

[afpj]

Wow, congrats of the repairs. you saved yourself a bunch of $$$. I had a mechanic do our front diff couple years ago (along with the tranny) as I have no idea how to set backlash/preload etc, even looking at those videos. Even having a "professional" do it (dealer), they put in some bearing seal? wrong so I was leaking from both ends of the front diff shaft....something about a new seal design and put in backwards? I don't have confidence that he really knew what he was doing but at least the binding on hard turns is gone. Noise however is same...hope it's just the tires (michelin MTX2). AS far as all the grease on the underside...might have spared you some undercarriage rust!

 

[VikingTrad3r]

Congrats bud. Whic video method did you follow? The 2nd video method seemed like to much work if your not doing anything with the front diff

I assume you are talking about the oil pan gasket. I can't tell you what its like to drop the oil pan without the front diff out because i took my diff out first.

But, there is a video that shows its possible so it must be. one thing i will say though, you will have to find a way to keep the gasket from getting damaged or knocked around as you wrestle with it up to mount it. I had the diff out and i had to be quite careful as there are a few sets of wires that will knock it around and if they are dirty, they will put sand/grit on the gasket surface which will mean you'll be doing it again soon.

the factory rivits the gasket TO THE PAN first, then they install the pain onto the crank case. its done to hole it in place while the tech wrestles it into place. because i had awesome access, i just held mine in place with my hand as i put it up. i had drill loaded with teh first nut to hold it in place. i just looked up and made sure that the gasket was aligned with the bolt holes before snugging anything and used my finger to adjust the gasket alignment. it was really easy.

but, with the diff in, i would rivet it using the riviet holes. note that the felpro rivet holes ....there were two....but one was mal-aligned and wouldn't have worked. i didn't use them anyway.


my biggest recommendation, is degrease and scrub any of the crap off the engine and the wire looms that you will be bumping into while putting the pan up. that should decrease any chances of getting grit between the gasket and the mounting surface.

sorry for verbose reply. hope it helps. i do have many pictures i'll try to upload them.

 

[VikingTrad3r]

here is a link to all my photos that i took in the process. cheers.
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=C1B01246FB62246B!147

 

[VikingTrad3r]

Hi, i know what you mean. until yesterday i had no clue what backlash even was lol. The tools to measure backlash cost a whopping 60$ here in canada. even less in the states.


btw i should post those. rediculousy easy to use! here you go:

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/2-1-4-in-diameter-deflection-gauge/A-p2970986e

and

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/130-lb-magnetic-base/A-p2944460e



the thing about repairing cars is that its a simple matter of turning bolts and following instructions step by step. my job is rather cerebral. so i get a heap of man-satisfaction doing this type of stuff. i call it yoga that pays. the positions i have to get into are harder than yoga.

my other cars are a 2006 tacoma and a 1987 vette. both of those cars have a very active forum and there is quite literally nothing that cant be fixed and has already been posted by somebody else.

i find the yukon/suburban crowd is a bit less apt to do repairs on thier own. probably because of the time inputs required because these cars are typically family movers and the family needs to be moved everyday.

hence why i waited until the wife and kids were gone on a 3 day weekend away without the vehicle.

it is TREMENDOUSLY satisfying to know that all those wages i would have had to earn, pay tax on, are going to stay in my jeans and not somebody elses.

Try starting small and make sure you have a great youtube video set or a great instructional forum post!

cheers, VT.

Wow, congrats of the repairs. you saved yourself a bunch of $$$. I had a mechanic do our front diff couple years ago (along with the tranny) as I have no idea how to set backlash/preload etc, even looking at those videos. Even having a "professional" do it (dealer), they put in some bearing seal? wrong so I was leaking from both ends of the front diff shaft....something about a new seal design and put in backwards? I don't have confidence that he really knew what he was doing but at least the binding on hard turns is gone. Noise however is same...hope it's just the tires (michelin MTX2). AS far as all the grease on the underside...might have spared you some undercarriage rust!

 

[about20ninj45]

all done. my front diff is much quieter though I have to say its not dead silent. i was having the groan when you give it throttle at slow speeds, which is indicative of carrier bearing failure on these diffs. and when i opened it up, i found the lock tab had broken, which is classic 8.25 front diff failure which starts the process of the carrier bearing backing off then the whole thing self destructs over time unless you fix it.

alllll i did was replace the carrier bearings and the oil seals. i didn't touch the pinion. it felt fine and i doubt that was it. the noise is MUCH quieter so it has to have been the carriers in some way or another. perhaps i didn't set the preload enough? i adjusted the lock tabs so that I got the right pattern on the teeth and that was it.

anyway, i know its not doing any damage and i am happy.

on the oil pan and oil cooler seal, so far, its dry, but i have only driven it 20klm. i noticed an extra 10 psi of oil pressure, interesting! it was leaking like a seive in the past so maybe it was enough to lose pressure!

its runnng strong, i picked this truck up with 320K klm ( 200k miles) for 5k and it runs amazingly well. the undercarriage was absolutely disgusting from years of grease and oil and tranny fluid leaking from the cooling lines.

i noticed while i was under there the rubber grease boot on the pitman arm has a blown seal, because i put too much grease in it.

This truck is so great and it looks great!

Waiting to see if i am going to be doing the valve cover and oil pressure sending unit....have to see if its still leaking.

What sounds were you having to determine that the front diff was actually going bad?