IMHO - the oil pressure seems low. However, you list new pickup tube (I assume new O-ring as well), oil pump, oil pressure sender? With all that replaced I don't see why you would have low oil pressure unless oil is leaking past various bearings/etc.
I found a broken bolt front drivers side. Put one of those brackets on and all seems fine after an additional 30k? miles.
When I was reading about this very common issue some recommended replacing the bolts with an OEM bolt kit. The bolts were redesigned and much improved to solve this issue...
On another thread I explained the result after getting the O-ring changed. Oil pressure fixed. I guess I should have posted here but I got mixed up. Look in the 2007+ section of the forum.
Yes, It could be the order in which the oil tube bolts are installed. If you do the bolt near the O-ring first you might be less likely to "pinch" or "skew" it. This could be why some go 250k miles and others 100k miles. My O-ring looks like it was skewed.
Without some analysis we don't...
The pickup tube O-ring is definitely an issue. There are countless YouTube videos and forum posts that mention this. I bet I've seen/read at least half of them. :-) One of the symptoms is low cold idle pressure that improves (gets higher) as the engine heats up. This is exactly what I had...
The old O-ring bends fairly easily but I haven't bent it vary far. I don't want to break it now. When pushing in on it, it seems hard. The hot idle is higher but not by much, maybe 5 psi.
Major Success - O-ring Replaced
I'm so pleased that I almost started a new thread.
I had the O-ring replaced and my oil pressure went way up (25 to 40) at cold idle and cold higher rpm (25-55+). The hot pressure is also up with 2000 rpm at about 50.
I'm including pictures of the O-ring. I...
I'm not saying that. I'm saying if e.g. you torque your wheels to 140 ft-lbs (2006 Tahoe) using the proper technique. If you go back and attempt to torque or "check" at the 140 ft-lb setting the nut/bolt will not move.
Auto things: pulling two things together e.g. wheel and hub and head bolts. These are considered "flat" items being pulled together. So sorry I can't agree with you. I see what you are saying but I haven't seen instructions that align. I'm talking about the final torque value e.g. on a head...
Assuming the initial torque of 65 was done properly (continuously moving until click) then additional applications with that wrench set at 65 will not move (rotate) the fastener. Reason: dynamic vs. static friction. Additional passes are used to double check that no bolts were missed.
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