Lowering advice

Hi all, I have a 2018 Tahoe Premier RST and I'm hoping to have the best possible ride quality while improving the stance. I'd like to drop the rear about 4 inches and the front, about 1.5 inches to have a 3-inch wheel gap for both the front and rear. Don't have a preference on keeping or deleting the MRC, just want the best overall ride quality.

Based on the following, do you have any recommendations on a kit? Thanks in advance!

I’m not sure they make a kit like that but you can piecemeal it.

I own a 2015 Yukon XL Denali which I know is the LWB compared to your Tahoe, but I have the same MRC suspension. I too wanted to lower my vehicle, improve the stance, reduce the wheel gap, and level it out more / reduce the rake from front to rear. All while maintaining and preserving the ride quality to remain as much as factory OEM.

From what you've described what you're wanting to do is absolutely possible and I don't think you'll have to drop the rear as much as 3" to accomplish what you're after.

The lowering parts I used were essentially from NORCAL SS but some purchased from forum members on here.
I purchased the Belltech '15 - '20 Front 2" Drop Spindles from NORCAL SS:

Using drop spindles in the front offers the ability to lower the front while maintaining the same suspension ride geometry with spring and front strut travel. Now if you search around on the forum here regarding the use of drop spindles in the front on the '15 - '20 K2XX platform you'll learn how not everyone gets a full 2" drop out of the spindles (See measurements below). This is primarily due to GM using various springs for the front during production; I believe there are at least 3 different front spring part numbers used on our K2XX SUV platform resulting in different levels of drop across different trucks using the same drop spindles.

Then I purchased the '15 - '20 Rear 1-4.5 Adjustable Kit here: https://store.tbssowners.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=578
I also purchased and installed low profile rear bump stops and performed the rear free travel mod.
I also purchased and installed the rear DJM relocating sway bar end links.

I probably didn't HAVE to do the rear free travel mod, but it seemed easy enough while we did the install anyway and I'm partial to doing things right and being "over preventative". So the piece of mind knowing I was adding additional rear travel clearance rather it was needed or not vs. finding out later I should have done it while we had the rear suspension off and in pieces anyway was worth it.

So to @Big Mama point I essentially peicemealed my own 2" Front / 1.5-4" Rear Lowering Kit, similar to what's linked above from Belltech and at NORCAL SS's online store here: https://store.tbssowners.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=609

Here are my before and after measurements:
*With OEM 22" wheels and 285/45/22 tires Front ride height measureing from ground to fender lip measuring vertical up through center of wheel (center cap)

STOCK FRONT = 35-1/4"
LOWERED FRONT = 34"
I only got 1-1/4" drop up front out of the Belltech 2" Drop Spindles.

STOCK REAR = 37-1/4"
LOWERED REAR = 34-5/8"
Dropped the rear 2-5/8" resulting in a 5/8" rake from front to rear.

It's a cold crappy rainy day here in Ohio, so excuse the filthy truck but here's a pic of what that ride height looks like right now:


I also measured my wheel gap since that was what you're after or using as a point of reference for how much you wanted to drop your Tahoe and I have about a 3" wheel gap (+/- 1/8") both front and rear.

Front Wheel Gap:


Rear Wheel Gap:


I've kept and maintained factory GM OEM MRC shocks and struts front and rear and my XL Denali rides like OEM+. I eventually added Hotchkis front and rear sway bars and I couldn't be happier with how it rides and handles.

Let me know if you have any questions, hope this helps.

Happy Modding.

i find it odd, that one would suggest a difference in static height due to the spring in this instance....

a spindle being a 2" drop, should net 2" if nothing else has changed. varied spring should not effect this, other than for a few moments of possibly being unloaded with the suspension dropped. but even at that, the spring doesnt need to come out to swap the spindle.

i would think the difference is in the spindle itself...ie different makes.

@STORMIN08 The differences in spring/spring rates accounting for the differences in net drop using the 2" spindle was something that NorcalSS himself posted on here a while back. I distinctly remember because I thought the same as you. He doubled down on those comments when I was working with him offline on a drop kit for my truck.

Note to the OP: There have been a few threads going around that mentioned supply chain issues with lowering kit hardware/hard parts. I'd suggest making sure all parts are in stock before you make any purchases. I've heard of some pretty long wait times due to spindles, etc. not being available.

STORMIN08 said:

i find it odd, that one would suggest a difference in static height due to the spring in this instance....

a spindle being a 2" drop, should net 2" if nothing else has changed. varied spring should not effect this, other than for a few moments of possibly being unloaded with the suspension dropped. but even at that, the spring doesnt need to come out to swap the spindle.

i would think the difference is in the spindle itself...ie different makes.

Click to expand...

I don’t disagree with your logic, and yes it is odd. There are numerous threads floating around the forum in regards to various experiences with the 2” drop spindles from both Belltech and McGaughy’s resulting in not quite a full 2” drop.

Personally, I’m more than ok with it as I didn’t want quite a full 2” drop up front but I wanted to use spindles over drop struts or the cups/plates method.

slupie said:

CMoore711 did you have any rubbing of the tires on the factory swaybar at full lock? do you have any rubbing of the tires on the Hotchkis swaybar at full lock?​

Click to expand...

I do. My stock 22’s w/ 285/45/22 stock tires rub the front sway bars at full lock. This occurred with both the front OEM sway bar and now with the front Hotchkis bar.

All the aftermarket sway bars are bent to the same shape as OEM, they’re just thicker and stiffer offering added stability. No change in shape offering any additional “clearance”.

This situation makes about as much sense as the varying levels of drop people get from the spindles. Some K2XX owners experience this while others don’t? It’s weird…

CMoore711 said:

I don’t disagree with your logic, and yes it is odd. There are numerous threads floating around the forum in regards to various experiences with the 2” drop spindles from both Belltech and McGaughy’s resulting in not quite a full 2” drop.

Personally, I’m more than ok with it as I didn’t want quite a full 2” drop up front but I wanted to use spindles over drop struts or the cups/plates method.



I do. My stock 22’s w/ 285/45/22 stock tires rub the front sway bars at full lock. This occurred with both the front OEM sway bar and now with the front Hotchkis bar.

All the aftermarket sway bars are bent to the same shape as OEM, they’re just thicker and stiffer offering added stability. No change in shape offering any additional “clearance”.

This situation makes about as much sense as the varying levels of drop people get from the spindles. Some K2XX owners experience this while others don’t? It’s weird…

Click to expand...

Thanks, mine rubs the swaybar like crazy at full lock with the 285/45R22 Continetals on OEM snowflake wheels. My front dropped about 1-1/4" from stock with the Belltech 2" drop front spindles.

@slupie I have a set of 24’s that I roll on in the summer that are 24x10 +28mm offset with 305/35/24 Toyo’s mounted. They rub the front sway as well; But not as much or not as severe or loud/noticeable as my OEM 22’s at full lock. The only thing I can come up with to justify the less rubbing is that set up has less tire sidewall, but for now we’ll call that a logical assumption…. Those exist right? Logical assumptions…