Fuel Pump Access Door in floor of 2007-2014 models

KC 2013 Tahoe said:

Update: Going to do an about face. A work buddy referred me to a highly recommended, family-owned shop w/50 years in business. They'll charge me 3 hours for a total of $390 to drop the tank and change the fuel pump. They're fine with me providing the parts. In light of that, went ahead and ordered the AC/Delco pump w/sender, a new Lock ring, and Charcoal vapor canister from Rock Auto. Scheduled to have it done on July 9th, will advise how it goes.
Much more down to earth than the $1,593 estimate I had received at Firestone and worth it to me in terms of not having to spend a Saturday pulling the seat, fabbing the access plate and changing the pump.

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This is why I liked working at and running the small mom and pop shops. Never worked for a dealer or retail chain.

That is if the small Ma and Pop shops are reliable. I've had small Ma and Pop shops leave suspension or alignment bolts loose that almost killed me.

Larryjb said:

That is if the small Ma and Pop shops are reliable. I've had small Ma and Pop shops leave suspension or alignment bolts loose that almost killed me.

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The small mom and pop shops I worked at had a good reputation or I would not work there and if I ran them, I got rid of the part's changers and hired mechanics/techs.

Larryjb said:

That is if the small Ma and Pop shops are reliable. I've had small Ma and Pop shops leave suspension or alignment bolts loose that almost killed me.

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I had a major corporate Firestone leave my alignment bolts loose, when I got home and checked it was bearly hand tight when spec is over 100ftlb(not a gmt900). you can get shoty work out of any shop. some time the dealership is the worst. I can be a tech that doesn't know or one that just makes a mistake. we all make those. I know I have.


I worked at a performance shop as a kid, and one of the techs left a safety clip off a fuel line at the fuel rail after an intake swap. mustang made it a few miles from the shop and burnt to the ground. Lucky for the shop he knew the owner and they worked something out or it would have been a big insurance claim.

I did an upper and lower intake gaskets job and new plugs and ignition coils on a Ford Escape 4 cylinder. This was about 8 months ago and know he will be back for more work. At the back d/s corner there is a tall upper intake bolt with a threaded stud top and on there an eyelet for a section of wiring harness drops down on the threads and a nut is supposed to tighten down on it. I forgot the nut and found that out 2 days later when I was cleaning out my tool cart and found the nut. There is no way in hell that harness eyelet is coming off there, on that tall threaded stud. The threads are about 1" long. BUT IT BUGS ME. When I see the car again, that nut is going on there. I have to remove the air snorkel from air filter to throttle body to do it, but it will happen.

For the gas tank on these machines I'd want to drop the tank and clean everything around the tank. Dirt, sand, gravel all build up over time, and the straps seem to be designed to rust too. Sure be nice if the tank happened to be low on gas too.

tom3 said:

For the gas tank on these machines I'd want to drop the tank and clean everything around the tank. Dirt, sand, gravel all build up over time, and the straps seem to be designed to rust too. Sure be nice if the tank happened to be low on gas too.

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Coat the brake lines with POR-15 while you're at it. That was the cause of my brake failure a couple of years ago.

I dropped my tank recently and it was easy. I only had 3 gals in the tank and there is no rust on our Denali.

Long Live Texas (steel frames and body)

donjetman said:

I dropped my tank recently and it was easy. I only had 3 gals in the tank and there is no rust on our Denali.

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Says the guy with a lift in his garage