What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

RooTBeeRthe1st

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2018
Posts
1,082
Reaction score
2,456
Damn, those look like shit. Guess they don't make them like they used to. My BBK ceramic coated longtubes are about 20 years old and built really well with nice clean welds.
Yeah, that's what I thought I was getting, these aren't how I like to do things.
Suppose I could exchange them for jba or something else, they're all 1-5/8.
 

blackelky

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2023
Posts
578
Reaction score
752
So today I ordered sway bar links and sway bar bushings. When I changed the oil the other day I noticed there was no left sway bar link...lol so 3 dealer oil changes, alignment, and transmission fluid changes later and not one tech noticed??? Wtf oh and passed va state inspection with no sway bar link..smh
 

89Suburban

Bull in the china shop
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2013
Posts
14,462
Reaction score
39,754
Location
SE PA
Yep.....

I'm an absolute ******* moron. I was trying to undo the red-circled nuts on the driver's side. Fuuuuuuuuu


So I pulled mine out Saturday afternoon. Took me about 1 1/2 hours including the driveshaft. (I already had the half shafts removed.) All those inner nuts and bolts come right out, leaving the mounts behind. No need to access the top. Have to drop the crossmember from under the engine too, only 4 bolts. So the diff housing can clear.

There is a boot on the driveshaft connected to the t-case flange. There is a band clamp you need to cut to get the shaft to slide out of the housing. So I am currently running with no front drivetrain at all.

And like I expected there was enough slack in the wire harness to run the diff actuator up into the engine bay and tie up out of the way. I mounted it into a pill bottle with a beer huggie wrapped around it for vibration noise and tied it up to the spare battery tray. This keeps it from throwing any service 4WD codes.

And yes the truck looks worse underneath with oil buildup than this diff does.


IMG_7061.JPGIMG_7063.JPGIMG_7064.JPG
 

Charlie207

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2021
Posts
1,519
Reaction score
2,927
Location
LFOD, New Hampshire
So I pulled mine out Saturday afternoon. Took me about 1 1/2 hours including the driveshaft. (I already had the half shafts removed.) All those inner nuts and bolts come right out, leaving the mounts behind. No need to access the top. Have to drop the crossmember from under the engine too, only 4 bolts. So the diff housing can clear.

There is a boot on the driveshaft connected to the t-case flange. There is a band clamp you need to cut to get the shaft to slide out of the housing. So I am currently running with no front drivetrain at all.

And like I expected there was enough slack in the wire harness to run the diff actuator up into the engine bay and tie up out of the way. I mounted it into a pill bottle with a beer huggie wrapped around it for vibration noise and tied it up to the spare battery tray. This keeps it from throwing any service 4WD codes.

And yes the truck looks worse underneath with oil buildup than this diff does.


View attachment 433555View attachment 433556View attachment 433557
Yeah, when I get some free time I'll pull mine. The half shafts are out, and when I spun the driver's side of the front diff it's gritty/crunchy.

What did you tie the front driveshaft to?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
131,340
Posts
1,849,309
Members
95,394
Latest member
Hawkeye1
Top