What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[89Suburban]

 

[Doubeleive]

View attachment 433360

So yours goes under?

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Damn, those look like shit. Guess they don't make them like they used to. My BBK ceramic coated longtubes are about 20 years old and built really well with nice clean welds.

Yeah, that's what I thought I was getting, these aren't how I like to do things.
Suppose I could exchange them for jba or something else, they're all 1-5/8.

 

[89Suburban]

So yours goes under?

Yeah. Mine doesn't look as stressed as yours though yours looks tight.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Yeah, that's what I thought I was getting, these aren't how I like to do things.
Suppose I could exchange them for jba or something else, they're all 1-5/8.

JBA is a good brand, better than BBK in my opinion

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

JBA is a good brand, better than BBK in my opinion

I basically only have 5 options in C0MM1E land.
BBK
JBA
Flowtech
Gibson
Doug's

 

[Grady_Wilson]

I basically only have 5 options in C0MM1E land.
BBK
JBA
Flowtech
Gibson
Doug's

One of the many reasons I am moving to a free state.
I will be able to install whatever I damn well please.

 

[blackelky]

So today I ordered sway bar links and sway bar bushings. When I changed the oil the other day I noticed there was no left sway bar link...lol so 3 dealer oil changes, alignment, and transmission fluid changes later and not one tech noticed??? Wtf oh and passed va state inspection with no sway bar link..smh

 

[89Suburban]

Yep.....

I'm an absolute ******* moron. I was trying to undo the red-circled nuts on the driver's side. Fuuuuuuuuu

So I pulled mine out Saturday afternoon. Took me about 1 1/2 hours including the driveshaft. (I already had the half shafts removed.) All those inner nuts and bolts come right out, leaving the mounts behind. No need to access the top. Have to drop the crossmember from under the engine too, only 4 bolts. So the diff housing can clear.

There is a boot on the driveshaft connected to the t-case flange. There is a band clamp you need to cut to get the shaft to slide out of the housing. So I am currently running with no front drivetrain at all.

And like I expected there was enough slack in the wire harness to run the diff actuator up into the engine bay and tie up out of the way. I mounted it into a pill bottle with a beer huggie wrapped around it for vibration noise and tied it up to the spare battery tray. This keeps it from throwing any service 4WD codes.

And yes the truck looks worse underneath with oil buildup than this diff does.

 

[Charlie207]

So I pulled mine out Saturday afternoon. Took me about 1 1/2 hours including the driveshaft. (I already had the half shafts removed.) All those inner nuts and bolts come right out, leaving the mounts behind. No need to access the top. Have to drop the crossmember from under the engine too, only 4 bolts. So the diff housing can clear.

There is a boot on the driveshaft connected to the t-case flange. There is a band clamp you need to cut to get the shaft to slide out of the housing. So I am currently running with no front drivetrain at all.

And like I expected there was enough slack in the wire harness to run the diff actuator up into the engine bay and tie up out of the way. I mounted it into a pill bottle with a beer huggie wrapped around it for vibration noise and tied it up to the spare battery tray. This keeps it from throwing any service 4WD codes.

And yes the truck looks worse underneath with oil buildup than this diff does.


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Yeah, when I get some free time I'll pull mine. The half shafts are out, and when I spun the driver's side of the front diff it's gritty/crunchy.

What did you tie the front driveshaft to?