500+ rwhp out of a 5.3?

Deadbaffy said:

It’s a daily driver and at most I can have it down for a week. My budget is whatever, as long as it stays reliable, I don’t care. I have a stock 4l60 with 3.73 gears and stock converter at the moment. Tires are 275/55, so about 32 in. Was going to go 4.10 or 4.56 with a 3k stall, and obviously beef up the 60 but would like to tackle all of it at once with h/c, so at the moment I’m just getting the parts together. Once I know what cam i want I was going to get everything else coming. Not opposed to a supercharger down the line either, but just want a fun, quick daily out of it that isn’t constantly breaking. Kind of seeing what others have done or wish they would have done before committing to one thing or another. Not my first time building something but first time doing a truck and an ls so figured experience from others input would be better than winging it.

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probably wise to build the rear end and transmission first, then do the engine. Otherwise your gonna break it and have unexpected down time
I recomend the eaton detroit tru-trac
then for the transmission tell the builder what your plans are and they can build it accordingly and do not go to the cheapest bidder in town, that's just asking for it.

Doubeleive said:

probably wise to build the rear end and transmission first, then do the engine. Otherwise your gonna break it and have unexpected down time
I recomend the eaton detroit tru-trac
then for the transmission tell the builder what your plans are and they can build it accordingly and do not go to the cheapest bidder in town, that's just asking for it.

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I am the builder. That’s why I’m on here for guidance before I just slap whatever in it. But you’re right, those are things I’m already worried about breaking as it currently sits. I was looking at the tru-trac already so I think I’ll go ahead and get that now.

I see a 4L80e swap in your future

Deadbaffy said:

I am the builder. That’s why I’m on here for guidance before I just slap whatever in it. But you’re right, those are things I’m already worried about breaking as it currently sits. I was looking at the tru-trac already so I think I’ll go ahead and get that now.

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ya that's the best one out there, never heard of anything better
if you are going to be buidling the transmission yourself you might try and get info from @NickTransmissions

strutaeng said:

I see a 4L80e swap in your future

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It’s definitely in consideration

Deadbaffy said:

It’s definitely in consideration

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500 RWHP is like 600HP (assuming a 20% loss through drive line) at the flywheel. That's a lot.

That's going to be a very expensive 4L60e build (nearly all internal parts are going to be Sonnax $$$) and still may not live a long life.

OR

A pretty much stock 4L80e will laugh at your engine's power. If you look around, no need for the Transgo HD-2; you can accomplish the same with like $15 in parts: dual-fed direct and HD intermediate snap ring. Just freshen up a good core and off you go.

And before someone mentions the 4L80e is gonna be slower due to the numerically lower first gear ratio, look here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/1712527-power-loss-when-swapping-4l80e-4l60e.html

Traction is probably going to be your next challenge.

strutaeng said:

500 RWHP is like 600HP (assuming a 20% loss through drive line) at the flywheel. That's a lot.

That's going to be a very expensive 4L60e build (nearly all internal parts are going to be Sonnax $$$) and still may not live a long life.

OR

A pretty much stock 4L80e will laugh at your engine's power. If you look around, no need for the Transgo HD-2; you can accomplish the same with like $15 in parts: dual-fed direct and HD intermediate snap ring. Just freshen up a good core and off you go.

And before someone mentions the 4L80e is gonna be slower due to the numerically lower first gear ratio, look here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/1712527-power-loss-when-swapping-4l80e-4l60e.html

Traction is probably going to be your next challenge.

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Those are about the numbers I’m wanting too I’ll daily on semis if it’s too bad.

Deadbaffy said:

It’s a daily driver and at most I can have it down for a week.

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Okay, well the parts and tuning required for you current goals are going to be at least a week. What you should do before anything else, is get a ( quality) 2800 to 3000 stall converter. That will help even a stock 5.3 and can be used behind a modified one.

Deadbaffy said:

My budget is whatever, as long as it stays reliable,

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Yeah.... 500whp in a tahoe with a 60e is reliable as long as you rarely get on it. To be reliable you need an 80e.

Deadbaffy said:

Was going to go 4.10 or 4.56 with a 3k stall

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Go straight to 4.56s if you don't do a lot of highway driving. You are trying to move a tank, and higher number gears make is seem like you have more power.


Your best bang for the buck in my opinion is the following in order.

Good posi with 4.56 gears

Quality 3000 stall converter.

Drive for a bit and see how it feels.

BTR lower lift no springs required Truck Norris cam ( will help with reliability)

This should be a pretty good package. And in reality, have more midrange usable power than a 600 crank/500 wheel engine ( 5.3 liter) in the same truck. Which means, it will be faster to accelerate.

What about a supercharger/intercooler with a tune? I've got the Roush kit on my F150...no idea what's available for Chevy/GM, but a S/C is FUN!

I blew up my G80 rear in my 17 Burb and just had it completely rebuilt. Yukon axles, ring/pin, bearings etc with an Eaton Truetrac carrier and replaced the factory 3.08's with 4.10s. Also had the tubes welded for added strength.

Its a daily driver with a Whipple, Kooks LTHs, and some other goodies but haven't done anything to the motor yet. I haven't dyno'd it yet either but have to be guessing about 550hp at the crank so roughly 400hp at the tire maybe? Its been pretty reliable. I swapped out the factory stall for a Circle D triple disc in my 6L80 and even at 110k miles, there isn't a speck of metal in my trans fluid. Whipple has been on since 60k miles.

I 1/4 mile the truck and run autocross with is as well. She's been very reliable outside of some self inflicted wounds but otherwise rock solid as a daily and I have surprised the shit out of some unsuspecting mustangs.

You are never going to hit 500rwhp in an NA 5.3 unless you do forged internals, roller everything, and run e85. You need to go FI to reach those numbers on a "stock-ish" motor. But once you do the motor, 700-800 with a power added is possible on the 5.3.