500+ rwhp out of a 5.3?

[West 1]

As others mention, yes you can get there but not naturally aspirated. You need a blower, turbo or nitros. Once done you need to know your engine is now a time bomb. Which part will fail first?
My son has a twin turbo on his LS, it is an early 5.7L LS block, and is making right at 1,000 HP on E85, just under 900 on 91 octane so it can be done but his short block was fully upgraded, Forged Crankshaft, Forged Rods, Forged Pistons, Cam ground for a boosted engine, Fuel Pumps and injectors all upgraded to handle the power. Lots of custom computer work to make this combo work and drive normal. He has about 25,000 miles on it, never uses it for a daily driver. No way it will pass any smog check which affects your resale value. Decide what you want and how much you are willing to pay. No, start with how much you are willing to pay and then try to plug in what parts fit your budget. I have driven it, your grandma could run around in it as long as you don't give it lots of gas. Once you floor it all hell breaks loose. I should share his engine is in a 99 Corvette so only 3,200 pounds not in a 5,500 pound Tahoe. The weight in a Tahoe would put a ton more pressure on the tranny, drivelines and rear differential. Even if the engine lives the driveline will also be in line to break.

If you want huge power do it in a Diesel truck where everything is stronger and better equipped to handle it.

 

[Mudsport96]

I blew up my G80 rear in my 17 Burb and just had it completely rebuilt. Yukon axles, ring/pin, bearings etc with an Eaton Truetrac carrier and replaced the factory 3.08's with 4.10s. Also had the tubes welded for added strength.

Its a daily driver with a Whipple, Kooks LTHs, and some other goodies but haven't done anything to the motor yet. I haven't dyno'd it yet either but have to be guessing about 550hp at the crank so roughly 400hp at the tire maybe? Its been pretty reliable. I swapped out the factory stall for a Circle D triple disc in my 6L80 and even at 110k miles, there isn't a speck of metal in my trans fluid. Whipple has been on since 60k miles.

I 1/4 mile the truck and run autocross with is as well. She's been very reliable outside of some self inflicted wounds but otherwise rock solid as a daily and I have surprised the shit out of some unsuspecting mustangs.

You are never going to hit 500rwhp in an NA 5.3 unless you do forged internals, roller everything, and run e85. You need to go FI to reach those numbers on a "stock-ish" motor. But once you do the motor, 700-800 with a power added is possible on the 5.3.

I bet you are at minimum 500 crank, but the transmission difference is the key.
The 6l80 you have is fairly sturdy. I have personally destroyed 4L60E transmissions with an NA 4.3....

 

[Bus 19]

My $.02

Just go supercharger. You'll save, time, money, and headache. You still probably won't hit 500 to the wheel, but it'll drive like stock just a heck of a lot faster.

Based on your profile pic the 5.3 you have dyno's around 220ish. Getting more than double that to the tire will not be easy. Can it be done? Sure, but driving it will suck, you'll require 93 and get single digit MPG, and spend way more than just slapping a supercharger on it.

The 6.0 would be hard pressed to get 500 to the tire N/A too.

I've got the 6.2 LS3 mated to a TR6060 in my SS. With a CAI, 2" headers, hi-flow cats, 3" pipes, a 231/246 .617/.595 113+4 cam, and a 93 tune I make 454 to the tire. It started at 370whp stock. To get to 500 wheel would mean heads, intake, new TB, and much more aggressive cam.
I love the way it sounds, but for the same/less money I could have thrown an LSA at the stock motor and made way more power and probably been happier.

 

[Mudsport96]

My $.02

Just go supercharger. You'll save, time, money, and headache. You still probably won't hit 500 to the wheel, but it'll drive like stock just a heck of a lot faster.

Based on your profile pic the 5.3 you have dyno's around 220ish. Getting more than double that to the tire will not be easy. Can it be done? Sure, but driving it will suck, you'll require 93 and get single digit MPG, and spend way more than just slapping a supercharger on it.

This here.....
A blower ( since you already have long tubes) or a turbo ( if you had factory manifolds) is virtually the best way to go.

With a blower you have frictional losses so the math isn't as cut and dried, but at 14.7 psi of boost you basically double your horsepower.
Sea level barometric pressure is 14.7 psi give or take.. and that shows as 0 on a pressure gauge. So 14.7 psi of boost is really about 29.4 pounds absolute pressure.
Since you are basically doubling the amount of air going into the engine, you double the power.
A set of long tubes is on average good for 10 to 15 hp through a good portion of the rpm range. So let's just say that your crank rated 295hp is now 310. Put a blower on it, get good injectors and run 14psi with e85 and you are now 600ish crank. Bam, there is you 500 wheel. And you still have the stock cam and heads.

 

[whymeintrouble]

check out these two videos, it should give you the basics you are looking for

 

[Deadbaffy]

Okay, well the parts and tuning required for you current goals are going to be at least a week. What you should do before anything else, is get a ( quality) 2800 to 3000 stall converter. That will help even a stock 5.3 and can be used behind a modified one.


Yeah.... 500whp in a tahoe with a 60e is reliable as long as you rarely get on it. To be reliable you need an 80e.

Go straight to 4.56s if you don't do a lot of highway driving. You are trying to move a tank, and higher number gears make is seem like you have more power.


Your best bang for the buck in my opinion is the following in order.

Good posi with 4.56 gears

Quality 3000 stall converter.

Drive for a bit and see how it feels.

BTR lower lift no springs required Truck Norris cam ( will help with reliability)

This should be a pretty good package. And in reality, have more midrange usable power than a 600 crank/500 wheel engine ( 5.3 liter) in the same truck. Which means, it will be faster to accelerate.

I was looking at those. Should I do like, ls7 springs and lifters, even though I don’t need springs?

 

[Deadbaffy]

Okay, well the parts and tuning required for you current goals are going to be at least a week. What you should do before anything else, is get a ( quality) 2800 to 3000 stall converter. That will help even a stock 5.3 and can be used behind a modified one.


Yeah.... 500whp in a tahoe with a 60e is reliable as long as you rarely get on it. To be reliable you need an 80e.

Go straight to 4.56s if you don't do a lot of highway driving. You are trying to move a tank, and higher number gears make is seem like you have more power.


Your best bang for the buck in my opinion is the following in order.

Good posi with 4.56 gears

Quality 3000 stall converter.

Drive for a bit and see how it feels.

BTR lower lift no springs required Truck Norris cam ( will help with reliability)

This should be a pretty good package. And in reality, have more midrange usable power than a 600 crank/500 wheel engine ( 5.3 liter) in the same truck. Which means, it will be faster to accelerate.

And for the cam install I have an extra set of heads that I plan on using, sending to machine shop and gonna build those, I work for GM as a tech and have access to lifts so I was gonna get everything together and knock it out over a weekend, and send it to tuning the Monday after. That’s the idea anyway.

 

[Mudsport96]

I was looking at those. Should I do like, ls7 springs and lifters, even though I don’t need springs?

Stock truck lifters are fine with any of the cams that would work well for the application you need. And springs depend on what cam you are going to use.

 

[dadwagon95]

Also any suggestions for what cam would be appreciated. I daily this car but I don’t care about anything but a reliable 500 hp

I'd get a btr truck Norris kit.. from what I've heard they're pretty bad. I haven't got a cam in mine personally yet, I've read more than my fair share of reviews though and a stage 3 mechanic sloppy cam sounds good and performs pretty well if you ask me.. tough decision man