Is This Camshaft Reusable? Or Too Pitted?

jmo2610 said:

Next question.... how do you hold the harmonic balancer still in order to torque the crankshaft? And 240 ft/lbs on the first pass? I'm gonna have to borrow a heavier duty torque wrench.

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This is the proper tool. Requires removing the starter to install it, which isn't as big a deal as it sounds.


But I went another way when I did mine. I used the ARP harmonic balancer bolt because 1/ it's reusable, and 2/ it can be torqued to final value without using an angle gauge. I gave it some good ugga duggas with my impact wrench and it hasn't moved a lick in 3 years.

Geotrash said:

This is the proper tool. Requires removing the starter to install it, which isn't as big a deal as it sounds.

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But I went another way when I did mine. I used the ARP harmonic balancer bolt because 1/ it's reusable, and 2/ it can be torqued to final value without using an angle gauge. I gave it some good ugga duggas with my impact wrench and it hasn't moved a lick in 3 years.

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Yup. Right on the money Geotrash
Get the $35 ARP balancer bolt. Put a bit of blue loctite on the threads
and hit it with and impact.. No need to hold the crank still. Just make sure
you are familiar with what that particular impact does.
I used my impact that I generally use for installing wheels. So I know it's settings

Ya, the torque specs for the harmonic balancer OE bolt is nuts. I installed the flex plate locking tool when I rebuilt my engine on the engine stand. I put a little dinky 1x2 under the harmonic balancer because the entire engine deflects downward when you are torqing it. I saw the 1x2 deflecting sideways a lot. Almost snapped. Probably wasn't safe TBH.

Then you have to turn like a certain degrees, which is even harder. You really need like a 6' cheater bar to do that job if you are a normal human, LoL.

Well I ended up borrowing a heavy duty torque wrench and flywheel tool from a friend, so that worked out. But 240 ft/lbs... I'll be honest.... I turned as hard as I could and I couldn't make that thing click. So we're just gonna say it was on there tight. I wish I would've bought the ARP bolt. I had bought a stock one already so that's what I put on. Hell, turning 140 degrees after it's at 37 lbs wasn't particularly easy.

What is y'all's preferred cleaner for the heads? I got the gasket area pretty clean already with brake cleaner and a plastic scraper, but the gunk on the cylinder heads is pretty nasty. I don't want to be too aggressive there.

Can you pressure wash aluminum heads?

jmo2610 said:

Can you pressure wash aluminum heads?

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Yeah. Just don't use stuff like Purple Power. Dry the valve ends with compressed air immediately and spray some WD-40 to prevent corrosion.

Were you asking about cleaning the surface that bolts down to the engine? I would say plastic spatula. You don't want to use anything abrasive or something that could gouge the aluminum.

jmo2610 said:

Well I ended up borrowing a heavy duty torque wrench and flywheel tool from a friend, so that worked out. But 240 ft/lbs... I'll be honest.... I turned as hard as I could and I couldn't make that thing click. So we're just gonna say it was on there tight. I wish I would've bought the ARP bolt. I had bought a stock one already so that's what I put on. Hell, turning 140 degrees after it's at 37 lbs wasn't particularly easy.

What is y'all's preferred cleaner for the heads? I got the gasket area pretty clean already with brake cleaner and a plastic scraper, but the gunk on the cylinder heads is pretty nasty. I don't want to be too aggressive there.

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I used permatex gasket remover with a plastic scraper on the gasket surfaces and engine degreaser on everything else. I used to have a parts washer in my old house, and that was the bomb. If you're planning to send the heads out for checking and a valve job, the machine shop will clean them up and send them back looking like new!

For that one bolt, I believe I pulled the bracket off that covers the bolt. The picture points out your issue glad you got it whipped.
To tighten to 240 lbs. I have an Ingersol Rand 1/2" air impact. I tighten with it and leave it. Have not held the crank to do this yet. Is it perfect, No. The IR I have gets it really tight. Rated to 300 FT pound of torque. Some of the new electric impacts have even more power but you would need to dial back to avoid snapping the bolt. I usually torque everything properly but this bolt and the front axle bolts I use the impact and accept they are tight enough since my torque wrench is only rated to 150 ft pounds..

I did a quick google on this because I felt like I’d read it before, and my God, I didn’t realize the depth of the debate.

Antiseize on Acdelco OEM spark plugs or no?

ACDELCO I do very light amount. never had issues.


the debate I found seemed to be centered around ngk not recommeing it or atleast not needing it. I tend to replace plugs pretty regularly, so I like them to come out easily.