Transmission
- Thread starter kahlil
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Joseph Garcia
Supporting Member
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2018
- Posts
- 7,328
- Reaction score
- 9,891
Welcome to the Forum from NH.
Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.
I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.
Pics of the truck, please.
@NickTransmissions is our resident transmission expert, and he may provide some perspective on your question.
Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.
I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.
Pics of the truck, please.
@NickTransmissions is our resident transmission expert, and he may provide some perspective on your question.
What engine does your 2000 Tahoe have?
S33k3r
Full Access Member
If the Yukon XL is a 5.3 as well, the transmission should work. We just need more information on both vehicles. Both trans missions are in the 99-2002 year range, so electronics should work. But, again, we don't have enough information to confirm 100%.
Matthew Jeschke
Full Access Member
Should be fine. There were some different input shafts but I think they all switched to same shaft after like 1999 / 2000 (around time switching from 5.7 SBC to 5.3 SBC). I also presume both are a 4L60E.
Some unsolicited tips: I'd do a few upgrades in the process though if you have it out... You can do these in the truck but they're a bit harder while laying on your back. Plus they're SUPER cheap to do.
- Sonnax plastic check balls (factory metal ones push through separator plate ultimately destroying clutch packs)
- Sonnax pin less accumulators (factory ones are plastic, they crack and leak)
- Corvette Servo (may already have it) - Holds band better so lasts longer.
- GET A NEW FLEX PLATE. I got the Summit racing SPI rated one. Cheap insurance as factory sometimes cracks.
- If high miles then also replace the electric solenoids, harness, diaphragm switch.
May also like to do... but can require some tuning.
- Boost valve
- OPINOAL: Use transgos instructions to drill out separator plate when you have it out for check balls.
These are the weak points in the 4L60E IMO. I think factory started heat treating the sun shell and took care of issues internal to case around 2003??? Kind of hit or miss from what I'm told as they used up all the old non heat treated shells in builds. The planets, and shafts are awesome from factory and the clutches are good enough. The main failure is the metal check balls hammer through the separator plate after so many miles causing the clutches to not lock up.
Some unsolicited tips: I'd do a few upgrades in the process though if you have it out... You can do these in the truck but they're a bit harder while laying on your back. Plus they're SUPER cheap to do.
- Sonnax plastic check balls (factory metal ones push through separator plate ultimately destroying clutch packs)
- Sonnax pin less accumulators (factory ones are plastic, they crack and leak)
- Corvette Servo (may already have it) - Holds band better so lasts longer.
- GET A NEW FLEX PLATE. I got the Summit racing SPI rated one. Cheap insurance as factory sometimes cracks.
- If high miles then also replace the electric solenoids, harness, diaphragm switch.
May also like to do... but can require some tuning.
- Boost valve
- OPINOAL: Use transgos instructions to drill out separator plate when you have it out for check balls.
These are the weak points in the 4L60E IMO. I think factory started heat treating the sun shell and took care of issues internal to case around 2003??? Kind of hit or miss from what I'm told as they used up all the old non heat treated shells in builds. The planets, and shafts are awesome from factory and the clutches are good enough. The main failure is the metal check balls hammer through the separator plate after so many miles causing the clutches to not lock up.
maybe.. do a visual comparison, they made changes in 03 for sure so 00-02 should be good but there is a chance the transmission was different in 02, been a while since I looked into it
The 2002 will retro-swap, if that is the case.
4L60E C3 logic remained unchanged from 1996 through early 2006 for the 5.3L equipped truck chassis. Late 2006 saw the introduction of a turbine speed sensor in the some of the truck/suv models and became universally installed by 2007. 2009 saw massive C3 changes plus case and component changes making them incompatible with anything older than 2009.
Hard part-wise, 5.7/4.3L Gen 1 SBC 4L60Es wont interchange with Gen3/4 SBC family engines and vise versa. Bell housing, pump stator, input shaft, TC and flexplates all changed and are different between the two variants.
Use caution: 4L60Es with 298mm input shafts and corresponding stators designed to work with the 5.7/4.3 Gen 1 or Gen2 SBC / LT1/4 engine family are not at all interchangeable with Gen 3/4 small blocks and vise versa. The Gen 3 and 4 LS-based small blocks took a 300mm input shaft, 7-1/4 stator, TMBX/TLBX/TCBX converter (depending on engine displacement) and much deeper bell housing and will NOT retro to Gen1 SBC//BBC pattern engines as is.
Regarding the above, I agree with (some addl commentary where applicable):
-Torlon check balls (can be purchased from anywhere, including Sonnax)
- Sonnax Pinless accumulator for 4th gear w/the Sonnax standard or HD spring (driver's choice) - great upgrade to improve the 3-4 upshift
- Not as critical/needed for 2nd gear, especially if a Vette 2nd gear servo is being installed and the vehicle stall is 1600-1800 and mostly driven on the street
- Absolutely replace any plastic acc pistons with aluminum counterparts
- Corvette Servo - I install one in all of my 700R4s and 4L60Es...
- Solenoids / Harness / Pressure Switch Manifold Assy - always good to refresh the electronic components (Borg Warner, Rostra, AC Delco)
- Boost Valve (I run Sonnax but Transgo's is also a good choice) - also don't forget Transgo's drop-in pressure regulator valve
- The Transgo PR valve is appx .0006-.0007 wider in diameter and will restore most worn pressure regulator valve primary spool sealing integrity when vacuum test readings indicate 8-10 Hg prior to the Transgo valve being installed
- My add: Drop in TCC regulator corrective/restorative valves (Transgo, Fitzall, CBVs, Sonnax, etc) - converts PWM to on-off for all 1995-2006; 2007+ with VVT/ACM must keep PWM active for the ACM to function properly
- Tuning - a great way to amplify the capabilities of the mechanical calibration upgrades as suggested
Things I Don't agree with:
- Unless you or someone is/are installing one of Transgo's shift kits in it's entirety, DO NOT just blindly follow Transgo's instructions for drilling the spacer plate - can you tell me specifically why I might advise against this?
- I would absolutely drill the plate but if not installing Transgo's shift kits, you must deviate from their instructions...
Other Items:
- The 4L60E received a better sun shell sometime around the 2004-2005 time frame but the metal still sucked...I pull apart 2009+ units with sun shells either broken in half or very nearly so
- check balls do get stuck in the spacer plate; the most common offender is the 1-2 check ball which causes an extremely late/harsh 1-2 shift and/or bind depending on whether other check ball seating locations are also compromised; Fitzall's plate repair kit has 5 steel repair sleeves w/snap rings that will enable you to salvage the plate vs spending $30 on a Transgo plate
- Agree with the statement about the output shaft and four-pinion planetary gear sets with the only real weakness being the wide ratio between 1st and 2nd gear but that's really only important for racers
Matthew Jeschke
Full Access Member
100% what @NickTransmissions said 
