Found an easier fix:
I called a computer hacker friend. We jury rigged and interface via the OBDII interface and did a deep dig into actual software that interfaces with the hard-wired firmware. We determined that the OS was akin to Windows Embedded Automotive 7, Linux or QNX. So, we simply looked at the various "book keeping" caches and noticed that they were slap full and not properly being purged and re-written as needed. This caused a lot of issues considering the ECU and associated computer modules were operating under a false or corrupt database.
So, my hacker friend simply purged the caches where this data was stored and re-wrote a few routines so that the caches get properly over-written and allotted the proper buffer space so that a data spill would not occur which in turn prevented corruption of the book-keeping data for performance issues. Or, at least, that's how he explained it.
After fiddling around at testing a few theories, we determined that this can be accomplished for all intents and purposes by simply disconnecting the battery terminals for an hour or two, but if you manually clear the proper caches you can reset or even set the hour meter, fix any DIC missing menu items/restore functionality to menu items and fix the all too common issue of the rattly valve until the engine reaches 210F problem.
The funny thing is he concluded that certain "issues" appeared to be programed in to occur and specific number of hours of engine times regardless of cache issues in the ECU system (planned obsolescence to get you into the shop to spend money?). Now, if I was the paranoid type, I suspect that automobile manufacturers have "issues" pre-programed to get people into the shop to get money once the warranty is expired. No, wait, I an the paranoid type. LOL!
All said and done, a hard reset of the computer seems to fix this issue and do an actual factory reset to the original firmware by clearing out the various caches that do not properly purge when their allotted space fills up. And do not simply touch your negative and positive cables together - either wait an hour or more to reconnect the battery (turn on your lights and ignition switch for a minute or two after disconnection the battery) or use a 100 ohm resister between the terminals for a few minutes, but do not touch the cables together without a resister, or better yet, just let it sit for an hour.
At any rate, a proper cache purge via a jury rigged OBDII interface between a lap top computer and a bit of hacking solved a number of issues including the obnoxious and incessant "Service Stabilitrak/Traction Control" problem (and the noisy lifters until warm-up).
