Hey everyone... 2007 Tahoe LT 4x4 nonamplified-nonnavigation in really really good shape. Guy before was into car audio which was good in a sense that he took really good care of the truck bringing it to sound-offs, but also, because I didn't install any of it, or reinstall all the factory stuff before trading it in. He brought it back to stock, with the OG blown factory speakers too. It DOES have a Valor overhead unit that looks factory but I know as much as any other installer I can make a LOT of stuff look factory. All of this background is important because Im having electrical issues and Im not sure if i need a new fuse panel for under the hood, cause I know they corrode on the bottom side, or if there is something else going on. Recently I lost my left turn signal, the relay is blinking fast. Also for some reason unbeknownst to me, I lost the lights for my cluster at the same exact time. Im also having intermittent issues with my keyless entry. So i dug in and it wasn't long before I found remnants of an alarm/remote starter. This truck had and still has rims and its that So-Co 2 tone paint job with that pearl paint. Its a nice truck but came with factory keyless entry fobs w/remote start. I tried the factory remote start and all that happens is the lights flash. No start. Which leads me to believe I have a bad hood switch and/or the wiring for it, and/or door pin switches as well. And/or that wiring. Which leads me to my windows, only the back passenger side works now. This truck is gonna be an absolute electrical nightmare for me. All of this stuff worked a few weeks ago. No fuses went. Nothing I can see except that there is still wiring that is tapped into the mains under the column, all that happened was the aftermarket brain was removed. And it didn't look like any cuts were made, just tying into factory wiring, no pin replacement or anything like that for the install. Install looks like any other decent install, just a horrible removal. The mains remained intact, tied up so no one that looked BRIEFLY could see that there was still wiring up there that needed to be removed. Im stuck with this truck guys and I gotta make all this power stuff work. Where should I go first with my multimeter?
Need to know where to go now...
- Thread starter 2fatowing
- Start date
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all i did was install LEDs in the headlights... ordered an android auto headunit and it just started acting up a week or so after the LED's were put in. I cant imagine that they would anything to do with this. There's gotta be some canbus short somewhere. I just cant figure it out. BCM maybe? Idk... this older canbus stuff I just don't understand. My generation either embraced data, or we didn't. I was one of the guys that didn't. I stayed on the MAYBE digital end, but definitely analogue side was my side. I liked wiring from a source, to power, to speakers. No data needed.
Time to pick up a capable scanner to get and go through any codes that exist.
no codes besides evap codes from gas cap and then I have airbag codes that I know exist and what and where they originate from in the crash data. But this all stopped working before the SRS issues I had. And that was impact related, not technical at all.
It's to the point, whoever sees this, I think I'm just gonna have to drop the front skirt to put these old-a$$ halogen lights back in to "equal out the load that the BCM is supposed to see with regular headlights." Apparently, the BCM cares that much about the headlight frequencies as to haphazardly begin eliminating electrical components not related at all to the headlights whatsoever... except maybe the front blinker on the drivers side.
petethepug
Michael
These vehicles do not like led lamps. They confuse the ship out of the body control module and the 5v can bus system that rides in it.
Can you make it work without permanently damaging the BCM? Who knows what’s installed and how they’re made?
Undo the LED added and hopefully the truck will return to itself. The only LED set up I’ve seen work without a hitch is the new bulbs with micro fans integrated. They satisfy the load requirements of a standard incandescent bulb without red hot resistors.
Can you make it work without permanently damaging the BCM? Who knows what’s installed and how they’re made?
Undo the LED added and hopefully the truck will return to itself. The only LED set up I’ve seen work without a hitch is the new bulbs with micro fans integrated. They satisfy the load requirements of a standard incandescent bulb without red hot resistors.
yeah my LEDS have those fans... but maybe not the fans you're speaking of... I still have the boxes and I am going to go out there tomorrow and remove those suckers. What gets me is, if the headlights aren't turned to the on position, you know, past DRL position, then why would that mess with anything? There's no voltage being sent to the bulb so there shouldn't be any type of backfeeding to the canbus system. I get what you're saying IF the headlights were in the on position. But still, I'll remove them tomorrow.
