DOD delete low oil pressure beat!

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Dod5-3-6L80e

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I have a 2011 Tahoe SSV 4x4 5.3l/6L80e with enhanced cooling package, , electric fans, factory lift, louvered hood, chrome spotlight, front and transmission skid plates. I just changed the stereo with a 10" Android touchscreen with a hardwire backup camera and GPS. I changed the steering wheel position sensor and got Stabilitrack working. I took apart my guage cluster to replace the oil pressure stepping motor- ordered the wrong one from Amazon- wasnt the problem anyway. I opened the dash again to fix the rattle. Changed all the window regulators. Changed headlamps.

My transmission went out at 155,000mi. I had it rebuilt by others and added a TruCool tranny fluid cooler in series with the new enhanced cooling package radiator (9 ports) that I had just put in a month before. He hit my AC cooler with a sawzall while installing the TruCool and replced it. Charged the AC. Now it has a new front cooling stack. Transmission cooler, AC cooler, and radiator. Nice. A month later a lifter went out. .



I installed all new;

valley cover, LS1 lifters, lifter trays, LS1single bolt camshft(California smog sucks), removed VVT, timing chain, chain tensioner, timing gears, LS1 timing cover, oil pan filter bypass delete(I had to remove the front differential 2 times because I forgot to add the bolt the first time I had the pan off when changing the oil pump- good times), oil tower steel plugs, one time use bolts include camshaft- harmonic balancer- head bolts- exhaust bolts, spark plugs, wires, replaced driver side valve cover with the Pressure Control Valve, added an oil catch can from PCV to intake plenum, added Rough Country cold air intake and use a oven range filter for the bottom hole under the filter box(air gets sucked in from the louvered fender hole only), added Rough Country 1.5" alluminum under spring leveling kit.

I did it all myself and by myself. ASAP on weekends from early morning until flashlight. I had a helper on the jack for the front differential. All of the rebuild was done with the engine in the truck in my backyard during rainy season and I was still in bad shape from a rescent back injury. I tore a muscle in my left shoulder and had to go to the E.R. Exhaust still assembled. Do yourself a favor and seperate the exhaust. But hold on.

I had a severe low oil pressure that would cuase shut down warning. I feathered brake and gas. I knew it needed a higher idle speed. I could not find a mechanical idle adjustment. I guage tested oil pressure via driver side block heater port. There was higher pressure there being near the oil pump. I read the bolt specs and found the oil pressure sending unit was the same size. I cut the harness and extended it from the valley to the block heater port. Drivable at that point but oil pressure still about 8psi at idle and a bit shakey. I changed the oil with 20-w50. Oil pressure at 12psi. Very drivable and sluggish, heavy feeling but solidish.

Then I found HPtuners MPVI3. Earlier I had AFM and VVT programmed out by mail. I hooked the truck up to the laptop with HPtuners. I found my idle speed was set at 525rpm at idle from factory. I raised the idle to 625rpm and changed my oil back to 5w-30. I raised my in gear idle speed to match my idle in park. Oil pressure is now 22 to oil pump bypass at 75psi. I made my throttle more responsive.

My truck drives better than it ever has. It can breathe and it doesnt have oil dripping in past the PCV to burn and corrode the valves with the oil catch can in place. Gas milage is the same but I gun it more to hear it now so I dont know. Tows the 28' trailer better than ever. It tows without a hitch! Ha!

8 cilindars all the time like God intended.



Any questions?1000009312.jpg1000003627.jpg1000003632.jpg1000003679.jpg1000005102.jpg
 
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Geotrash

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Impressive resolve to get shit done! One concern though: Many of these steps seem like masks on the underlying problem of low oil pressure. The root cause of that is usually a worn/hardened o-ring on the oil pump pickup tube. Have you changed that out yet?
 

Marky Dissod

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Have you given any thought to enabling V4 mode only as an overheat mitigation measure, at or over 230F?
Also, pics of louvered hood, please?
 

opfor2

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I have a 2011 Tahoe SSV 4x4 5.3l/6L80e with enhanced cooling package, , electric fans, factory lift, louvered hood, chrome spotlight, front and transmission skid plates. I just changed the stereo with a 10" Android touchscreen with a hardwire backup camera and GPS. I changed the steering wheel position sensor and got Stabilitrack working. I took apart my guage cluster to replace the oil pressure stepping motor- ordered the wrong one from Amazon- wasnt the problem anyway. I opened the dash again to fix the rattle. Changed all the window regulators. Changed headlamps.

My transmission went out at 155,000mi. I had it rebuilt by others and added a TruCool tranny fluid cooler in series with the new enhanced cooling package radiator (9 ports) that I had just put in a month before. He hit my AC cooler with a sawzall while installing the TruCool and replced it. Charged the AC. Now it has a new front cooling stack. Transmission cooler, AC cooler, and radiator. Nice. A month later a lifter went out. .



I installed all new;

valley cover, LS1 lifters, lifter trays, LS1single bolt camshft(California smog sucks), removed VVT, timing chain, chain tensioner, timing gears, LS1 timing cover, oil pan filter bypass delete(I had to remove the front differential 2 times because I forgot to add the bolt the first time I had the pan off when changing the oil pump- good times), oil tower steel plugs, one time use bolts include camshaft- harmonic balancer- head bolts- exhaust bolts, spark plugs, wires, replaced driver side valve cover with the Pressure Control Valve, added an oil catch can from PCV to intake plenum, added Rough Country cold air intake and use a oven range filter for the bottom hole under the filter box(air gets sucked in from the louvered fender hole only), added Rough Country 1.5" alluminum under spring leveling kit.

I did it all myself and by myself. ASAP on weekends from early morning until flashlight. I had a helper on the jack for the front differential. All of the rebuild was done with the engine in the truck in my backyard during rainy season and I was still in bad shape from a rescent back injury. I tore a muscle in my left shoulder and had to go to the E.R. Exhaust still assembled. Do yourself a favor and seperate the exhaust. But hold on.

I had a severe low oil pressure that would cuase shut down warning. I feathered brake and gas. I knew it needed a higher idle speed. I could not find a mechanical idle adjustment. I guage tested oil pressure via driver side block heater port. There was higher pressure there being near the oil pump. I read the bolt specs and found the oil pressure sending unit was the same size. I cut the harness and extended it from the valley to the block heater port. Drivable at that point but oil pressure still about 8psi at idle and a bit shakey. I changed the oil with 20-w50. Oil pressure at 12psi. Very drivable and sluggish, heavy feeling but solidish.

Then I found HPtuners MPVI3. Earlier I had AFM and VVT programmed out by mail. I hooked the truck up to the laptop with HPtuners. I found my idle speed was set at 525rpm at idle from factory. I raised the idle to 625rpm and changed my oil back to 5w-30. I raised my in gear idle speed to match my idle in park. Oil pressure is now 22 to oil pump bypass at 75psi. I made my throttle more responsive.

My truck drives better than it ever has. It can breathe and it doesnt have oil dripping in past the PCV to burn and corrode the valves with the oil catch can in place. Gas milage is the same but I gun it more to hear it now so I dont know. Tows the 28' trailer better than ever. It tows without a hitch! Ha!

8 cilindars all the time like God intended.



Any questions?
Sounds like you have a old border Patrol Tahoe
 

j91z28d1

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so how much better was the oil pressure coming out of the pump vs that back of the intake?
 

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