What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

MassHoe04 said:

Hi people!!!
Been some time since last post here!

Had to replace broken parking brake cable that snapped while testing just before I was going for MA state RMV annual inspection...
Not that interesting of a pic, so I'll skip the photo of new cable.

Good news... 20 years and over 222,000 miles and I got the old reliable to pass another state safety inspection!!!

I'll be posting soon on the odometer thread of how many miles when I hit 222,222. Should be this week.

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New forum, who dis?

Changed the engine oil and filter. A/C Delco PF46E (I think) and 6 quarts of Castrol GTX 5W-30 high mileage. I noted the oil change in the manual and see I only drove it 1000 miles since it's last annual oil change.

Just started noticing an issue with my HVAC. It's not fully changing positions or settings. When I switch it from defrost back to dash vents, its still partially blowing some air out of the defroster vents. Or if I had it blowing out the floor vents, it will not fully switch over to the dash vents, it will partially blow some air out the floor vents. I replaced the mode actuator about 2 or 3 years ago, wondering if its failing again. Or.....I'm wondering if there's a slight chance that my dash controller may finally be failing. I guess I will have to just dig into it. Arrrrgh!

Getting that ball joint out of the lower control arm was quite the ordeal.

NoReverseYukon said:

Getting that ball joint out of the lower control arm was quite the ordeal.

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Was this your first time? If so, did you grind down the retaining tabs before you started whacking the BJ?
Also, as my dad always says, "never use force, just get a bigger hammer".

clandr1 said:

Was this your first time? If so, did you grind down the retaining tabs before you started whacking the BJ?
Also, as my dad always says, "never use force, just get a bigger hammer".

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I was just trying to remove the knuckle, so all this BS was to get the tapered shaft of said ball joint out of the LCA. And even though this is the original from 2001, there is no slop and it is still tough to move so it is staying put for now. And I did see that tab so I know what I have in store. Same BS on my old Dakota.

NoReverseYukon said:

Getting that ball joint out of the lower control arm was quite the ordeal.

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Have you tried gently lifting the BJ stud (thread the nut so you don't mess up the threads) with a jack? You are essentially using the weight of the vehicle as an aid to break the tapered fit. Some tapping with a 5 lb engineer's hammer has broken it loose for me. But I've had the big 'old 15 lb sledge hammer "just in case."

strutaeng said:

Have you tried gently lifting the BJ stud (thread the nut so you don't mess up the threads) with a jack? You are essentially using the weight of the vehicle as an aid to break the tapered fit. Some tapping with a 5 lb engineer's hammer has broken it loose for me. But I've had the big 'old 15 lb sledge hammer "just in case."

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I even tried this un-gently. No-go. She was a stubborn cuss. I got all the parts inside now warming up before putting it all back together - don't want to freeze my fingers.

Ordered Christmas present for the 2003 Z71 Tahoe (she deserves it)….

Coil-over kit from Atomic Fabrication and matching rear shocks…. been on the “wish list” for a long time.

dps01 said:

Ordered Christmas present for the 2003 Z71 Tahoe (she deserves it)….

Coil-over kit from Atomic Fabrication and matching rear shocks…. been on the “wish list” for a long time.

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Should do a build thread when installing.