What is P0563 (Ignition Voltage above 18v) - And why does my car not AUTO-STOP?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

braveheartwallace

TYF Newbie
Joined
Dec 21, 2017
Posts
18
Reaction score
7
Hello everyone,
I drive a 2009 Hybrid Tahoe. About six months ago, I replaced the high-voltage hybrid battery, and since then (5k ish miles), I haven’t had any check engine lights or issues. Today, I drove from San Antonio to Pecos, Texas, a trip of about four hours. The car ran perfectly the entire time....

Toward the end of the trip, I knew I was cutting it close on fuel, but I had a jerry can in the trunk, so I decided to push on from Fort Stockton to Pecos. I was maintaining about 90 mph until I had to slow down to 60 mph behind a semi. I eased off the gas, letting the regenerative braking handle the slowdown.

At that point, I noticed the fuel gauge, which was close to “E” but not fully empty, suddenly dropped to empty. The fuel light came on, and the engine died. I shifted into neutral and managed to restart the engine. Knowing I was critically low on fuel, I stayed behind the semi at 60 mph for the last mile. Then, the engine died again, but I was able to coast off the highway directly to a gas station and stop at the pump.

At the pump, I filled the 24 gallon tank with 25.59 gallons and restarted the car, but it died again after about 30 seconds. Suspecting air or vapor in the fuel rail, I purged it using the Schrader valve under the hood. Initially, some fuel vapor came out, followed by steady gasoline. Thinking I’d cleared the air, I restarted the car and let it idle. It ran perfectly for five minutes.

I then drove a couple of minutes down the road, but it died again. I shifted into neutral, restarted it a few times, and managed to reach another gas station. There, I pulled over for more diagnostics.

The car showed no check engine light or trouble codes. The only issue was that it would idle for about 30 seconds before shutting off. Each time it started, it ran smoothly—no misfires, no hesitation. It would start, idle smoothly, and even rev up without issue, but it always shut down after roughly 30 seconds.

I called a mechanic in Pecos, and based on the symptoms, we both suspected a fuel system issue. When I tried starting it again, the car surprisingly ran long enough for a five-minute drive to his shop. Once there, it idled smoothly for 10-15 minutes while we examined it, but it eventually died again and displayed a “service power steering” message on the dash.

After that, we tried restarting it multiple times. It would run for about 30 seconds before shutting off each time, always running smoothly while it lasted. Using his more advanced scan tool (Snap-on), we finally pulled a trouble code: P0563 - System Voltage High.

This code hadn’t appeared on my earlier scans or triggered a check engine light. According to a GM technical bulletin for hybrid Tahoes, this code occurs when the ignition system voltage exceeds 18 volts for either six seconds or six times per second (not entirely clear which). We were able to clear the code a few times, but it kept coming back, and the car still wouldn’t idle for longer than 30 seconds.

I then had the car towed from the independent mechanic in Pecos to a Chevy/GMC dealer in Monahans. We will hopefully dive into the car tomorrow.




Just to provide additional context of my understanding of the General Motors two mode hybrid, the hybrid system in this vehicle operates at around 300 volts, while the air conditioner and electric power steering runs at 48 volts. All other standard car accessories, including the ignition coils, rely on the 12-14 volt system.

The DTC P0563 refers to the ignition voltage exceeding 18 volts, and I’m wondering if this could be related to the regenerative braking. When I slowed from 90 mph to 60 mph using regenerative braking, could that have caused an overcharge? After four hours of highway driving, the hybrid battery should have been fully charged.

The question is how an overvoltage could occur in the 14-volt system, which powers the ignition coils. Neither the instrument panel nor the Snap-on scanner showed anything abnormal. The dashboard consistently displayed 12-14 volts for the 12-volt system, and the Snap-on tool showed a maximum of 14.6 volts. Similarly, the hybrid high-voltage battery stayed within expected limits, peaking at 330 volts during my observations. From what I’ve read, some technicians report seeing up to 400 volts during regenerative braking, so this seems normal.

The P0563 trouble code appeared in multiple modules: the Hybrid Powertrain Control Module (HPCM), Motor Control Module 1 (MCM1), and Motor Control Module 2 (MCM2). At one point, the Power Steering Control Module (PSCM) also reported a separate code, C0895 - Control Module Voltage Below Threshold. This suggests the 48-volt system briefly dropped below its normal range.

This makes me think there could be an issue with the AC-DC inverter system, which is responsible for charging both the hybrid battery and the 12-volt system, as well as powering the hybrid AC motors. It seems possible that there was a voltage imbalance, where the 48-volt system dropped while another system experienced a spike, potentially triggering the P0563 code.

… The following is paraphrased from another post I found on the form where @j91z28d1 commented something that may be useful under "2011 Yukon Hybrid randomly shuts off with "SERVICE POWER STEERING"

Anyways, from what I understand about how the system works, when you’re regenerative charging—typically as you’re coasting to a stop—the individual hybrid battery cell voltages can rise. If any cell goes over 20.4 volts for four seconds, the system will open the main battery contactor as a safeguard. This is designed to prevent further damage to the battery, which makes sense, but it also kills the entire truck unexpectedly.

What’s tricky is that when this happens, I think there isn’t enough time for the system to trigger a check engine light. The Body Control Module (BCM) can’t activate the light on its own; it has to set a code and then send a request to the ECM over the CAN bus. By the time this process even starts, the truck has already lost power. The engine is already off, and because of the 2,000 psi accumulator, you won’t immediately notice the loss of power—especially since the hydraulic brakes continue working like normal for a while.

However, this sudden power cut is enough to trigger a low voltage code in the power steering module. The power steering system runs on the 12-volt battery but controls the 42-volt supply to the rack motor. By this logic when the main power cuts, you should see a brief “Service Power Steering System” fault pop up.

Based on my own observations and reading about the system, if you have a scanner that can read Battery control module (BCM) freeze frame data, check for a max cell voltage over 20.4 volts. If you find that, you’ve likely pinpointed the cause of the stalling and temporary power steering fault. The truck typically restarts quickly without needing to clear any codes or check engine light. A simple key cycle will reset the system, and the cell voltages will return to normal since regenerative charging is no longer active.
 

j91z28d1

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2022
Posts
3,229
Reaction score
4,012
just for info, the power steering is 48v and I agree you can probably disregard the code stored it in for now. the ac is 300v.


as for the running and dying. make sure it's actually started and running. these are spun over by the electric motor in the transmission much faster than a starter motor can. I've even caught myself thinking it started once when it didn't. it was just cranking the engine over very fast and then times out and stops.

my software says p0563 is specifically over voltage at the TCM. transmission control module. not the whole truck, it lists loose or damage battery terminals, loose or corroded connections at the transmission. Or a loose or corroded connections at the accessory power module.

the non hybrid trucks do this all the time with bad battery cables. voltage goes crazy and lots of stuff freaks out.

not sure why that has anything to do with running out of gas.



here's what my software lists. don't know if any of it will help. I like my hybrid but man, being out of town on the road when they break would be the worst. I always bring my tech 2 and access to my repair software with me. I don't have any faith in shops fixing even easy stuff these days. oh and they don't really like repeating cranking attempts back to back. there's a code for that too. you might try before digging into it to deep, clear the codes, pull both battery cables off. touch them together for a min or so. it will discharged any stored power in caps and surff. Just make sure the ign is off haha. it fixes things on the non hybrids sometimes. then put it all back on. make sure everything is tight and clean. fingers crossed and hope for the best.


"Circuit/System Verification
Engine ON, measure and record the battery voltage with a DMM. The battery voltage should be between12.5-14.5 volts.
If the voltage is not within the specified value, or the Charge Indicator light is ON, go to
ChargingSystem Test
.
Circuit/System Testing
1.
Ignition OFF, disconnect the X175 transmission 16-way harness connector at the transmission.
2.
Ignition ON, verify that a test lamp illuminates between the ignition voltage circuits listed below andground.
1.
Terminal 4
2.
Terminal 12
1.
If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the ignition circuit for a Short to Ground or anOpen/High Resistance.
3.
If all circuits test normal, replace the control solenoid (w/body and TCM) valve assembly.
1.
If the voltage is not within the specified value, test the Ignition Voltage circuit for an Open/HighResistance or Short to Ground.
2.
If the voltage is within the specified range, replace the control solenoid (w/body and TCM)valve assembly.
Charging System Test
Diagnostic Instructions
Perform the
Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle (with HP2)
or
Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle(without HP2)
prior to using this diagnostic procedure.
Review
Strategy Based Diagnosis
for an overview of the diagnostic approach.
Diagnostic Procedure Instructions
provides an overview of each diagnostic category.
Reference Information
Schematic Reference
Starting and Charging Schematics
Connector End View Reference
Component Connector End View Index
Description and Operation
Charging System Description and Operation
Electrical Information Reference
Circuit Testing
Connector Repairs
Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections
Wiring Repairs
Circuit/System Verification
Engine ON, observe the charge indicator on the instrument panel cluster (IPC) or message in the driverinformation center (DIC). The charge indicator on the IPC should be turned OFF and the DIC should notdisplay any charging system message.
If the charge indicator is not on the IPC and a charging system message is not displayed on theDIC, refer to
Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections
.
If the charge indicator is ON on the IPC or a charging system message is displayed on the DIC,refer to Circuit/System Testing.
Circuit/System Testing
1.
Ignition ON, verify that no generator or battery current sensor DTCs are set that would cause acharging system concern.
1.
If DTCs are set, refer to
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle
.
2.
Ignition OFF, measure the voltage across the battery terminals. The voltage should read 12.0 volts orgreater at room temperature.
1.
If not within the specified value, refer to
Battery Inspection/Test
.
3.
Connect a carbon pile tester to the battery.
4.
Start the engine and increase the engine speed to 2,500 RPM. Observe the voltage reading on thetester. The voltage should read between 12.6-15.0 volts.
1.
If not within specified range, replace the generator.
5.
Adjust the carbon pile tester to the specified load test output value, refer to
Generator Usage
.
1.
If not within specified value, replace the generator.
Repair Procedures
Perform the
Diagnostic Repair Verification
after completing the diagnostic procedure.
Generator Replacement"
 

Attachments

  • 12OBDG06 Hybrid Diagnostics.pdf
    1.4 MB · Views: 2
OP
OP
braveheartwallace

braveheartwallace

TYF Newbie
Joined
Dec 21, 2017
Posts
18
Reaction score
7
Thanks for the helpful info @j91z28d1,

I am pretty certain the engine is running on its own. It revs above idle freely and smoothly more than 10 seconds after the crank is initiated. If I remember correctly that's the max amount of time the motor/gen 1 will crank when initiating a start.
I plan to take apart the battery and check all connections now that I've had it towed home. I replaced all the cells by myself about 6 months and 6k miles ago, who knows if something came loose.

I appreciate you linking the Hybrid Diagnostics.pdf. I plan to start digging into it tomorrow.
I really need to buy a tech 2 already. I had enough tools with me to do a complete engine overhaul on the side of the road but no digital tools aside from a cheap FIXD code scanner.
 

j91z28d1

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2022
Posts
3,229
Reaction score
4,012
the clone tech 2 that's about 300$ work well with these trucks.

I do use the torque phone app pretty often to keep an eye on battery stuff. gotta add the pids but it's handy. not much for trouble shooting for your case thou.

Screenshot_20241014-220948.png


a volt meter and some of the back probe pins/needles for it are very helpful too. they are thin enough you can slide them thru the back of plugs along the wire and test at the pin while plugged on without damaging the seal or wire. lot of trouble tree diagnostics ask for voltage at pins.
 

j91z28d1

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2022
Posts
3,229
Reaction score
4,012
just curious what you rebuild the battery with? not that I think it's related. Just wondering
 

BG1988

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2018
Posts
2,969
Reaction score
1,352
Hello everyone,
I drive a 2009 Hybrid Tahoe. About six months ago, I replaced the high-voltage hybrid battery, and since then (5k ish miles), I haven’t had any check engine lights or issues. Today, I drove from San Antonio to Pecos, Texas, a trip of about four hours. The car ran perfectly the entire time....

Toward the end of the trip, I knew I was cutting it close on fuel, but I had a jerry can in the trunk, so I decided to push on from Fort Stockton to Pecos. I was maintaining about 90 mph until I had to slow down to 60 mph behind a semi. I eased off the gas, letting the regenerative braking handle the slowdown.

At that point, I noticed the fuel gauge, which was close to “E” but not fully empty, suddenly dropped to empty. The fuel light came on, and the engine died. I shifted into neutral and managed to restart the engine. Knowing I was critically low on fuel, I stayed behind the semi at 60 mph for the last mile. Then, the engine died again, but I was able to coast off the highway directly to a gas station and stop at the pump.

At the pump, I filled the 24 gallon tank with 25.59 gallons and restarted the car, but it died again after about 30 seconds. Suspecting air or vapor in the fuel rail, I purged it using the Schrader valve under the hood. Initially, some fuel vapor came out, followed by steady gasoline. Thinking I’d cleared the air, I restarted the car and let it idle. It ran perfectly for five minutes.

I then drove a couple of minutes down the road, but it died again. I shifted into neutral, restarted it a few times, and managed to reach another gas station. There, I pulled over for more diagnostics.

The car showed no check engine light or trouble codes. The only issue was that it would idle for about 30 seconds before shutting off. Each time it started, it ran smoothly—no misfires, no hesitation. It would start, idle smoothly, and even rev up without issue, but it always shut down after roughly 30 seconds.

I called a mechanic in Pecos, and based on the symptoms, we both suspected a fuel system issue. When I tried starting it again, the car surprisingly ran long enough for a five-minute drive to his shop. Once there, it idled smoothly for 10-15 minutes while we examined it, but it eventually died again and displayed a “service power steering” message on the dash.

After that, we tried restarting it multiple times. It would run for about 30 seconds before shutting off each time, always running smoothly while it lasted. Using his more advanced scan tool (Snap-on), we finally pulled a trouble code: P0563 - System Voltage High.

This code hadn’t appeared on my earlier scans or triggered a check engine light. According to a GM technical bulletin for hybrid Tahoes, this code occurs when the ignition system voltage exceeds 18 volts for either six seconds or six times per second (not entirely clear which). We were able to clear the code a few times, but it kept coming back, and the car still wouldn’t idle for longer than 30 seconds.

I then had the car towed from the independent mechanic in Pecos to a Chevy/GMC dealer in Monahans. We will hopefully dive into the car tomorrow.




Just to provide additional context of my understanding of the General Motors two mode hybrid, the hybrid system in this vehicle operates at around 300 volts, while the air conditioner and electric power steering runs at 48 volts. All other standard car accessories, including the ignition coils, rely on the 12-14 volt system.

The DTC P0563 refers to the ignition voltage exceeding 18 volts, and I’m wondering if this could be related to the regenerative braking. When I slowed from 90 mph to 60 mph using regenerative braking, could that have caused an overcharge? After four hours of highway driving, the hybrid battery should have been fully charged.

The question is how an overvoltage could occur in the 14-volt system, which powers the ignition coils. Neither the instrument panel nor the Snap-on scanner showed anything abnormal. The dashboard consistently displayed 12-14 volts for the 12-volt system, and the Snap-on tool showed a maximum of 14.6 volts. Similarly, the hybrid high-voltage battery stayed within expected limits, peaking at 330 volts during my observations. From what I’ve read, some technicians report seeing up to 400 volts during regenerative braking, so this seems normal.

The P0563 trouble code appeared in multiple modules: the Hybrid Powertrain Control Module (HPCM), Motor Control Module 1 (MCM1), and Motor Control Module 2 (MCM2). At one point, the Power Steering Control Module (PSCM) also reported a separate code, C0895 - Control Module Voltage Below Threshold. This suggests the 48-volt system briefly dropped below its normal range.

This makes me think there could be an issue with the AC-DC inverter system, which is responsible for charging both the hybrid battery and the 12-volt system, as well as powering the hybrid AC motors. It seems possible that there was a voltage imbalance, where the 48-volt system dropped while another system experienced a spike, potentially triggering the P0563 code.

… The following is paraphrased from another post I found on the form where @j91z28d1 commented something that may be useful under "2011 Yukon Hybrid randomly shuts off with "SERVICE POWER STEERING"

Anyways, from what I understand about how the system works, when you’re regenerative charging—typically as you’re coasting to a stop—the individual hybrid battery cell voltages can rise. If any cell goes over 20.4 volts for four seconds, the system will open the main battery contactor as a safeguard. This is designed to prevent further damage to the battery, which makes sense, but it also kills the entire truck unexpectedly.

What’s tricky is that when this happens, I think there isn’t enough time for the system to trigger a check engine light. The Body Control Module (BCM) can’t activate the light on its own; it has to set a code and then send a request to the ECM over the CAN bus. By the time this process even starts, the truck has already lost power. The engine is already off, and because of the 2,000 psi accumulator, you won’t immediately notice the loss of power—especially since the hydraulic brakes continue working like normal for a while.

However, this sudden power cut is enough to trigger a low voltage code in the power steering module. The power steering system runs on the 12-volt battery but controls the 42-volt supply to the rack motor. By this logic when the main power cuts, you should see a brief “Service Power Steering System” fault pop up.

Based on my own observations and reading about the system, if you have a scanner that can read Battery control module (BCM) freeze frame data, check for a max cell voltage over 20.4 volts. If you find that, you’ve likely pinpointed the cause of the stalling and temporary power steering fault. The truck typically restarts quickly without needing to clear any codes or check engine light. A simple key cycle will reset the system, and the cell voltages will return to normal since regenerative charging is no longer active.
Running out of gas damages the Vehicle
 

BG1988

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2018
Posts
2,969
Reaction score
1,352
How does that damage the vehicle; what damage does it cause?
Self bricks

most likely the fuel pump got damaged the fuel keeps the fuel pump cool


OP ran out of gas and thermal shocked the fuel pump motor with the cold gas

He should have waited 50min 1 hour before adding the COLD fuel to the gas tank
 
OP
OP
braveheartwallace

braveheartwallace

TYF Newbie
Joined
Dec 21, 2017
Posts
18
Reaction score
7
Self bricks

most likely the fuel pump got damaged the fuel keeps the fuel pump cool


OP ran out of gas and thermal shocked the fuel pump motor with the cold gas

He should have waited 50min 1 hour before adding the COLD fuel to the gas tank
I've done alot of fuel system work on other applications, notably GA airplanes and never heard of a self priming fuel pump experience thermal shock. Typically any pump (made after the 90's for any fuel inject application) operating temperature range is designed to handle everything from Arctic winters to desert summers... and not immediately melt down if ran out of gas.

Fuel flow is not currently the issue. The fuel rail pressurizes and holds nominal pressure as the engine idles. I've cross checked using the OBD scan tool and an analog gauge.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
132,779
Posts
1,874,147
Members
97,613
Latest member
Salman saeed
Top