5.3 Gen 4 flex fuel afm dod delete need help
- Thread starter DomKs
- Start date
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I sincerely appreciate the in depth answer. I’m assuming the transmission has to be removed for this? To be honest valve body work is all I’ve done. I’ve never really taken an automatic transmission apart before. As far as motor work I can do whatever, I just don’t know what the best bang for my buck is ya know? I’m getting rid of the AFM, I have to, i won’t replace it, exhaust lifter jammed up causing nasty, hesitation, popping, there’s no VVT. What’s your opinion on AFM delete kits, Texas speed, BTR? I’m looking for the most complete kit for the best price buying this stuff piece by piece is difficult. I don’t want to go through all this just to put stock stuff back in. I’ll handle the transmission with your suggestion, I read a lot about that kit. I’m looking for a dependable powerful daily driver not a loud monster truck. I just want to put it together and not have to constantly be messing around with it. Does that make sense? Thank you
I think
3:73s (4WD)
I can’t use the stock camshaft, I’m deleting the AFM, so at least 8 lifters need to be replaced and with that the camshaft.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I'm sure he meant a GM factory cam that would be a non-AFM alternative to your stock AFM cam. There are a couple factory cams that are really close and should run "fine" on the stock tune, but could use a slight amount of tweaking to be optimal. Custom tuning is expensive and those cams aren't "off" enough to make a custom tune an absolute necessity. A direct drop-in replacement for your LMG that would require no tuning would be the L33 cam (#12689035) from the Gen 3 engines. As with most aftermarket cams, and since it's a Gen 3 cam, you would just need the $20 three-bolt cam gear with the 4x reluctor (#12586481) to run it in your Gen 4 engine.
CaptainAmerica1
Full Access Member
Oh boy, here we go again….
Marky Dissod
Full Access Member
Even an FAQ expressly written to avoid
has never stopped people from asking frequently asked-and-answered questions.
I have a Cam Motion "Stage 2 Truck Cam" in my 2012 XL Denali and I'm really happy with it. I tow a 7500 lb camper a dozen or more times a year, and it makes great power down low and up high. They make a grind that's specific to the 5.3 as well, which is important because most of the cams out there from BTR and TSP are "compatible" with the 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 and 6.2 but not optimized for any of them. Cam Motion makes each grind honoring the flow characteristics of each engine.
The cam comes in 2 versions - high lift and low lift, but the high lift is still only .553 so you can use the BTR beehive springs that are good for .560, no problem, which is what I did. Over 20K on this setup now and it's a beast. My priorities were durability and towing performance, so similar to yours. Here's my thread on it if you're interested:
www.tahoeyukonforum.com
The cam comes in 2 versions - high lift and low lift, but the high lift is still only .553 so you can use the BTR beehive springs that are good for .560, no problem, which is what I did. Over 20K on this setup now and it's a beast. My priorities were durability and towing performance, so similar to yours. Here's my thread on it if you're interested:
2012 Yukon XL Denali 6.2L Cam Swap Thread
I love that Cam Motion measures each cam after grinding and finishing. Here's the cam card. Blub blub blub...
www.tahoeyukonforum.com
I have a Cam Motion "Stage 2 Truck Cam" in my 2012 XL Denali and I'm really happy with it. I tow a 7500 lb camper a dozen or more times a year, and it makes great power down low and up high. They make a grind that's specific to the 5.3 as well, which is important because most of the cams out there from BTR and TSP are "compatible" with the 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 and 6.2 but not optimized for any of them. Cam Motion makes each grind honoring the flow characteristics of each engine.
The cam comes in 2 versions - high lift and low lift, but the high lift is still only .553 so you can use the BTR beehive springs that are good for .560, no problem, which is what I did. Over 20K on this setup now and it's a beast. My priorities were durability and towing performance, so similar to yours. Here's my thread on it if you're interested:
2012 Yukon XL Denali 6.2L Cam Swap Thread
I love that Cam Motion measures each cam after grinding and finishing. Here's the cam card. Blub blub blub...
I’m sorry, this thread is so old my hard drive crashed on my computer and I couldn’t find a way to get back to my original post. I ended up doing almost everything that was said in the replies. Maybe a slight variation, it’s been a tough year. I have a new rotating assembly, a BTR Truck Norris Cam with the heavier springs, the whole kit they recommend. I’ve added thicker diameter push rods along with the right length for the setup, a better oil pump and all the extras. I think there’s a vacuum leak somewhere on the original intake manifold so I’m wondering first and foremost what would be best suited for that motor as far as an intake manifold it says in the description also that I should change my torque converter. I also installed a roller rockers kit, BTR valve covers, I sold the transmission and the transfer case to buy a better rebuilt performance one. nothing crazy because it’s all about durability here, but I selected the more heavy duty option as opposed to street performance. So my question is still the same what do I choose for an intake manifold? What torque converter should I use and is there anything else I should do before I drop this motor in?
Attachments
In my opinion, you can't do much better than the factory intake on these. GM got the engineering right with it. The only exception would be if you're going to forced induction. If I were in your shoes I would either find and fix the leak in the manifold I have, or buy another one from the local boneyard.
Thanks for the input, I always hear the same thing. Stock manifold works best. I’m now trying to figure what brand headers (Kooks, JBA, Gibson) I have brand new cats, and would like to do a cat back. I like the split exhaust style coming out behind the passenger side. Any suggestions with anything? Pulleys, throttle body, it has to get tuned no matter what. I’ve spent so much time cleaning, painting the engine pay and frame, replacing wiring. So any last minute suggestions? Thank you and anyone with any input. To answer the turbo, supercharger situation, I don’t think I can do any setup like that with the cam and internals I have.
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