You are probably low on refrigerant. Gotta get it hooked up to a manifold. Check the relays to the fans, there are 3 on the previous generation, not sure about yours.
Change ALL the fluids. If funds allow, replace ALL of the oxygen sensors, especially if you plan to run E85. Use GM OE parts and fluids whenever possible, aftermarket parts do not play well with the computers on board these trucks.
Clean the throttle body and mass airflow sensor with that...
I suggest going with the Suburban. The engine is slightly more fuel efficient and you'll love the extra space, in the back and even in the 2nd row.
That 4-speed transmission cannot be used in either of your prospects as they both have the 6L80 transmission. Sell it.
To answer an earlier question, if yours were mine, I would restore the suspension and not convert to plain shocks.
You should be able to use the Tech-2 to turn the compressor on and off and interact with it. @Joseph Garcia
Searching the forum ought to give you the answer. My memory is not so good today, but do remember fellas talking about this 5-6 years ago and even earlier.
When you turn the truck on you ought to hear the compressor run through self-tests if it is an OEM unit. If you stand on the back bumper it ought to come on and level out the truck. It's louder than the fuel pump but not overly loud, you have to listen for it.
The rear sensor may throw a code...
Helper lifted the front of the truck for the tire rotation this afternoon and saw the passenger front tire slump over. Pulled the wheel and sure enough, the hub was toast. No noises whatsoever but for the past 6-8 months I noticed a vibration at speeds over 75 mph and now that I think of it...
For shocks, jounce the suspension and see how much she moves. A stuck shock might not allow one side to move at all. Worn shocks will let her move quite a bit. Then there is the noise.
Aftermarket stuff doesn't last as long as GM OE.
Do it right. A bi-directional scan tool will let you test the various components and pull up the ABS and suspension codes to see what's what. It is very likely time for a complete overhaul. You might need new wheel speed sensors/hubs/bearings too.
Welcome to the forum Abdullah from Florida. See if you can sign up for a subscription to the shop manual at AllDataDIY for access to the troubleshooting guide for each of these codes.
The brake/chassis codes are likely due to the EBCM needing to be replaced but the troubleshooting guide ought...
It's major surgery to convert to the 6L80 transmission. Different cluster, shifter, computers, etc.
Tow Haul was designed to be effective when you are at 75% or more of your GCWR. You can tell if it's working or not while towing by how it shifts.
If I activate Tow/Haul unloaded, the...
This is generally a mode door actuator problem. This is the one in the driver's footwell behind the center stack. I bi-directional scan tool will take the guess work out of this.
It is my understanding that your generation's AC Control Modules do not need programming.
I hope he stays away from the hybrids. No parts, no parts support and dealerships for the most part are reluctant to touch them. One guy on here did replace all the cells in his battery with improved ones. @RebelBelle
Well, first ensure that the oil you are using meets the specifications that GM established for your engine.
Second, I have found that engine oils with a viscosity rating of 11.5 or higher with regards to the ASTM D445 standard run better in my three LS engines. They do not rattle on start up...
The original tire size was 265-65-18 and of course they were P-Metrics. Those LR Es ought to protect on the construction sites and help to keep from getting stuck and not affect you too much doing Uber in the city. I Ubered with mine when it had KO2s on it and averaged 15.6 mpg. While I had...
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