I would also be curious there is any difference between 2wd and 4wd. But hub bearing is a good bet. I had to replace one on my 2012 at around 135K.
You might also check to see if the shop has a set of "chassis ears". They mount under the vehicle during a test drive to pinpoint sounds like this...
We're going to keep throwing stones at the wall until you answer two key questions:
1/ Do you have a Tech 2 scanner or equivalent that will show you the commanded vs actual position of the actuator and blend door? If so, what does it show?
2/ Is this an automatic climate control or manual HVAC...
Oil pressure gauge behavior is normal. A/C whine is not. The A/C clutch bearing turns when the clutch is disengaged and compressor shaft isn’t turning. But when the clutch engages, the shaft turns and a different set of bearings turns with it, along with the scroll inside the compressor.
My...
This matches what I experience with my '07 and '12 XL Denali's. The shift points and patterns are noticeably different between the two. It's especially noticeable in tow/haul mode. The '07 is much more prone to downshifting earlier when slowing down and revs higher before upshifting.
Side note...
You might want to check with a dealer. They had a "special service" campaign for 2015-16 models, IIRC, that they may have expanded to later models. It's worth asking anyway.
Yessir. For clarity for the OP, the '15 Yukon uses a stretch belt on the A/C compressor, and a tensioner pulley + an idler pulley on the main serpentine belt.
"Flush" is a bit of a misnomer. It's the same process for all modern transmissions at most quicklube shops and dealers. They disconnect the cooler lines, connect them to a fluid exchange machine, start the engine and let the transmission's pump circulate the fluid through the machine. Sometimes...
This is a bummer and a major downside to the K2xx generation rigs, in my view. I have 247K on the original front mag ride shocks on my '07 and they still ride like new.
I do. That’s why I asked her for a little more clarification. It’s super common on these to have driveline clunks that show up as the transmission is downshifting, or upshifting. Most often it’s motor mounts, front differential mounts, transfer case, or driveshaft yokes. If the transmission is...
I used permatex gasket remover with a plastic scraper on the gasket surfaces and engine degreaser on everything else. I used to have a parts washer in my old house, and that was the bomb. If you're planning to send the heads out for checking and a valve job, the machine shop will clean them up...
Being happy with a choice that works for you is what it's all about, and a 6.6L Suburban is probably not the right choice for a big commute every day. And I totally get feeling resentment toward a vehicle that let you down so soon into your ownership of it. But you taught us all how to do...
Nope, you're 100% correct. And getting those C-clips off the other end of the axles can be a bear. This is a job I will happily leave to a trained pro. But I agree with Wes, unless it's making noise or leaking, send it!
That's what I have always done and it works well. Spent several winters in Wyoming, Montana and North Dakota chasing drilling rigs and a block heater always did me right when I couldn't leave the engine running all night. One other little tidbit: get yourself a cord designed for cold weather. I...
An oil pan heater is only half of the solution and creates other problems. As soon as that heated oil starts to circulate, it will be instantly cooled to the temp of the block anyway. Worse, heating just the oil creates a warm condensing environment inside the engine where the moisture in the...
Clunks...you mean as the transmission is downshifting...like when you approach a stop sign?
If so, my guess you would benefit from a proper transmission tune since it seems your previous tune was wiped out by the shop...if I'm understanding that part right.
This is the proper tool. Requires removing the starter to install it, which isn't as big a deal as it sounds.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900332-1
But I went another way when I did mine. I used the ARP harmonic balancer bolt because 1/ it's reusable, and 2/ it can be torqued to...
And...you can buy both fans with the whole assembly for less than just one fan and motor. That way you can keep your good one as a spare. I've had good luck with TYC parts, for what it's worth.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10173016&cc=3434402&pt=2181&jsn=500
Don't know what the difference is, if any. Could be their pictures are off though, so I wouldn't buy based on appearance online. You can get a better price on the correct part through rock auto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=14079457&cc=3434402&pt=2164&jsn=494
Not a direct answer to your question but it might be helpful to some. HP Tuners says that they can now access the E90 ECU on these but it requires sending it to them to be unlocked before tuning ($300). After that it requires 8 credits to perform your tune at home (an additional $400). All of...
This. Need the data on how much the ECU is compensating for knock to speak rationally on any of this. But what we DO know is that running regular unleaded gas in a 6.2L meaningfully raises the risk of eventual engine damage - especially under high power.
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