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    Idle Air Control Valve

    NO IAC on gen IV engines. The "idle air" is controlled by the throttle body opening to what what the ECM commands it to do to keep idle correct. Maybe you have a a dirty/bad MAF or a dirty bad Throttle Body
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    Low Oil Pressure AND smoking dipstick (Related?)

    The 210* on the gauge is vague at best... I'd be more worried about a head gasket or low coolant if the oil level is ok. Did your trans temp guage on the DIC show being hot?? (it's actually correct)
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    Kooks Cats for High HP

    I've got the Kooks green cats on my 6.2... Wish I had that HP to test it out !!!! They don't make them anymore - nor the headers - for our beasts They are the "bullet" style.. So with my Kooks 1 7/8 headers and the kooks Y pipe with green cats I don't have to remove any exhaust to drop my...
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    Kooks Cats for High HP

    NOPE
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    Looking for front brake pads with lots of bite - dust and wear life not big priorities

    Darn Right !!! Joseph change out the pads and rotors. They wear in to each other.. Doing a "pad slap" is NOT the way you'll ever get good braking, ever
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    Engine Pinging

    Great point on the spark plugs !!!! Use the ACDelco irridium from a known source: local parts store, rockauto, summit racing.... NOT: amazon or ebay
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    Engine Pinging

    Add in some "good" octane booster. Lucas, Purple stuff, etc That would rule out a true predetonation with your 91 fuel. Also see if you can get 100% gasoline with zero ethanol The cleaners are full of alcohol type chemicals and could be adding to the issue
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    Rear Brake Upgrade

    I also did the powerstop stuff on all 4 corners. I'm happy with the results, although I would have liked to upgrade the fronts the a bigger caliper and rotor. But the cost was prohibitive for me
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    Possible transmission leak?

    Passenger side rear it would be the heater hoses and Tees back there.. Common issue
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    Front diff or wheel bearingh

    If you are turning or 'leaning' a left corner - the weight would be on the right side.. So I'd suspect your right bearing is bad too.. Probably was on it's way and now with'the left side all done you notice the noise
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    Body Plugs in Bottoms of all 4 Doors

    I've been feeding my ocd to keep my mind off a tragedy .... Anyway, I've removed and cleaned the weather stripping that;s attached to the doors themselves.. Just the long straight black weatherstrip... Cleaning everything up and blowing out the holes of all the crap (lots of crap !!!) Any way...
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    Growling/humming noise

    And really inspect those tires... all of them I had a noise issue with my pontiac a few years ago... I just knew it was trans/converter related... brought it to my trusted trans builder... He replied "look at these tires" The insides of the tires were worn making the noise
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    Growling/humming noise

    Transfer case could cause a constant noise for sure. Be worth draining the fluid and looking at it really carefully. It's just Dex VI fluid, so cheap enough to check/change to rule that out. The old cases had a chain drive that could certainly growl... IDK how these ones are built...
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    Growling/humming noise

    With all the parts you have already done, my guess would be front differential... Unless you got a defective wheel hub assembly for some reason or a bad differential. Does it change at all when you "lean" it left or right ????
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    Shell Rotella 15w-40 motor oil

    Oil pressure and viscosity run the DOD/AFM (if you still have it) AND the VVT. Gen IV engines also call for synthetic oil that meets dexos requirements. IF you are in a hot climate and for some reason feel you need a little "thicker" oil, then you could do a 5w40 synthetic or even a 10w30...
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    High RPM while Light Towing & Upgrade Transmission?

    Sometimes you just have to drive slower...... when towing. Use the 3rd gear and Tow/Haul Mode.. And just slow down accordingly. It's the right thing to do
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    Cooling fans coming on max after cold engine start, stays on till engine shutdown

    To the OP: I may have missed it, but your temp gauge in the SUV is about as worthless as a dummy gauge. Replace the ECT sensor on the drivers side cylinder head with a "good" one ... Make sure your coolant is good and you don't have any air pockets.. that will trigger the fans to be on as well.
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    HEADERS, MANIFOLDS & CATS

    If your engine itself is stock (no cam, head work, stroker, forced induction) then IMO you would be wasting a lot of money to change out the manifolds for headers. There WILL be more expense than just the headers. You won't gain anything with headers until you have a custom tune done to take...
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    Towing

    I've got the appropriate modification to tow this much. Not everything is in my signature !!! I wouldn't tow this heavy if I believed I was unsafe in any manner. Unfortunately the plan was to travel more but life has gotten in the way. I used to tow this travel trailer with my 94 C1500...
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    Running A CVC BU60FHD Converter with Zeroed-Out Clutch Slip Target -- Any Advice/Experience?

    I think GEOTRASH has that converter
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    Running A CVC BU60FHD Converter with Zeroed-Out Clutch Slip Target -- Any Advice/Experience?

    Just to add, the converter slip is there mostly to do with the DOD/AFM so make sure you turn that crap off FIRST before you do any trans tuning
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    Running A CVC BU60FHD Converter with Zeroed-Out Clutch Slip Target -- Any Advice/Experience?

    If you are going to use HPTuners, then you can get rid of TC lockup in gears 1-3 (some people do 4th too/ I don't). Zero out the slip in 5th & 6th gears. Bring the upshift (shift scheduling) tables up quite a bit so you're not hunting gears so much. Adjust the TCC lockup on the same curve...
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    Turbo and adding snow performance

    We just don't have good E85 around here at all... Some crappy E85... So I'm staying on gasoline. And yeah,, I'd have to reinvent the wheel so to speak to go to E85 The meth injection is a great product. I picked up quite a bit on my SBC - Vortech setup - no intercooler
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    Turbo and adding snow performance

    YUP Methanol Injection is good stuff. I used the snow that had the handheld programer/info. You can adjust when the boost juice comes on in a "ramp up" stage. You'll need a good vacuum/boost source and a place to install the tank, pump and the inline solenoid AND the regular...
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    Towing

    OK.. I guess i missed that... So you really just need to get it adjusted correctly. It takes some time and experimentation.. But if it's "overrated" for your app it may be difficult to dial it in correctly.

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