First thing I would do is inspect for bent tie rods? Someone hit a curb or a nasty pothole? Then I would check the idler and pitman arm for binding. The 1/2 ton GM truck chassis is notorious for eating up idler arms. Especially cheap chinese ones.
Here in the midwest a 2003 wasnt worth 8500 5yrs ago. I own not one but two 2003 tahoe LT's and there isnt any way I could get 4k out of each of them right now...but mine dont have just 175k on them either....then there is that salt thing here in the midwest.
Ive got a home made spark tester too. Its using the existing spark plug and wire and let the plug lay up against the head and crank away. Youll hear it snap.
Could be the fuel pump module Oring wasnt replaced during last fuel pump R&R or its just rotted out. Inspect for leaks in fuel system first then suspect the Oring or its metal retaining ring has rusted out. Both Oring and Retainer should be replaced when fuel pump is removed and replaced.
173k on a 5.3L? Engine is barely broken in. Keep up with oilo changes and that engine will go 300K+ no problem. Look through receipts. I suspect the fuel pump has been replaced and the tranny likely rebuilt in the last 50k. If it has then that is a huge plus. Look for receipt on transfer case...
So both codes in initial post are bank 1 & 2 sensors. New harness so that eliminates that one. What else is common to both? The engine (knocking) and the PCM. Id check for active knock counts on engine running and maybe even under load. As far as the PCM id would pull connectors and inspect...
Very possible. I would have to see the internal logic of the module to be able to rule out that possibility. I dont believe Ive ever seen an internal schematic for one. Just a very basic block diagram.
The ABS pump is fed directly from a fuse. It is given a ground from the EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module). I dont know if that ground switch is a internal relay or a transistor. It is quite possible that if a relay the contacts are welded together and giving a constant ground to the...
Well that engine was severely abused. Obviously the previous owner didnt get the oil changed much at all. With minor shavings on plug that would be normal but BRO! You got CHUNKS. That aint normal at all. That means that engine is on its way off to go be with god. Maybe not this month, maybe...
Watchu talkin about willis? It supports GM trucks and suv's(with truck chassis). All GM cars and trucks with ICE run on a 12v system unless of course you are getting into diesel truck land.
Yup. My dormans have been on my Denali for about 6 years now or so. Its hit or miss on Dorman parts though for sure. I wouldnt waste my time using Dorman replacent vent motors.
Yup a new clutch drum or to verify that you have warped drum. Even then a caliper when used to measure in the right places on a drum/basket will tell you everything you need to know.
Tcase in neutral with tranny in a gear yields the same thing as the tranny in neutral. Neutral in Tcase is for being towed or because it is a requirement to go into neutral (Tcase) first BEFORE you can get into 4lo. This keeps geniuses from traveling 60MPH down the highway and slamming Tcase...
Tcases are indeed stupid easy to rebuild. They arent anywhere near as involved as rebuilding a tranny or an engine. Definitely not rocket science especially with all the youtube videos available on how to.
Fill her up once install is done. Keep in 2wd and drive around like that for 10miles or so and that will get the clutches thoroughly soaked then 4wd should be good to go.
With power applied push neutral switch on dash. Turn encoder shaft on Tcase all the way right or left (your choice) and click back one position at a time while manually trying to turn front driveshaft output yoke on Tcase. When you find that you can completely turn the front driveshaft freely...
LS based engines are built for high RPM longevity straight from the factory. Cruising 1800-2500 RPM...the engine wont care as long as its got enough oil and cooling system is working fine. Transmission.....dont even consider running in 4th with that kinda weight behind the tahoe. You'll burn...
Pull about 1/2 qt out when you get time but its not the end of the world for you or your transmission. Much better than a quart low below the min mark.
Sounds like washer at stabilizer link rattling against either the lower control arm or the stabilizer bar. Check both driver and passenger stabilizer links to see if one is busted, bent or loose.
Since its happening during braking and turning to the right...And the Temp is going up (Not down--That is an important clue), I would say you have an intermittent short to ground. Your sensor resistance lowers as it is heated up by the engine coolant. A short to ground produces the same result...
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