you really need to have thicker skin. ppl aren't trying to bash you or nothin they are just giving an opinion regarding the help you "asked" for. when you feel well that reply dont apply, scroll to the next post.
remember none of us are there with your truck, anything said is nothing more then...
with all them miles a clogged cat is a possibility.
at idle you can spray some carb cleaner, flammable brake cleaner or the likes at the vac lines intake gasket areas, if the idle jumps up when you spray something, you found the leak area.
normally with a large vac leak that you can hear...
likely need to change the pass side actuator. (from the vids ive seen, it dont look like a whole lot of fun to change) iirc you can take the glove box out and see if the recirculate actuator is working or not.
if you own a tuner (i own one, so its way to easy to play around) i ran 93 only in my 5.3, added some timing across the board and felt more power, and got better mpg. once 93 went back up to over 4 bucks a gallon. i tuned it back to stock and run 87 now. that first tank of 87 sucked so bad with...
if the clutch dont spin the fans wont come on 100%, theres a sensor at the fire wall near the ac tank thing, if that goes bad it wont turn the clutch on, providing its got refrigerant still. no refrigerant no clutch turn.
you can try re bleeding the master, (pump the brakes crack the lines off the master as if it was a bleeder) then all 4 calipers again, if that dont firm it back up, you might need a tech 2 to do a proper abs pump purge of air.
theres a blend door actuator behind the pass side rear plastic panel. they go bad. had to change mine. the plastic all comes off pretty easy and the actuator is in the wide open to replace. theres vids on yt.
looks ok to me really. if you had a large vac leak the ltft would be pegged at +20
keep in mine, the plus side is adding fuel, so its lean and the pcm is making it richer. all normal.
on a cold start the engine is running in open loop aka the pcm is running it till it warms up some, then the...
cats could be on their way out. only two things make the cel flash, needing a tune up like super bad, or the cats are clogged up. flashing light = multiple misfires. aka all of em or most of em are misfiring.
nah, they got a rainbows worth of colors these days. gloss and the old school matt finish.
stuffs not cheap. buy on line. look for the taller cans. iirc i got 6 cans for like 65 bucks, the larger cans too. the short cans are like 16$ a can at the parts stores and home depot. one tall can will...
i could not stand looking at the missing clear coat and paint on my hood. so i tried plastidip gloss on it and the wheels. cause the wheels looked like dog ass too. im not to happy with the hood, but the wheels came out dame good.
most will use a pry bar on the flex plate teeth to the block to keep the engine from rotating. or the air gun deal does work. the crank bolts is supposed to be tty one use only why the installer is nice cause its a 18 dollar bolt.
at the base of the column inside the cab, where the shaft enters is a bearing. they can fail over time and will rattle. you can reach under and grab the shaft, push it up and down side to side, if you feel play its left the chat. should you be changing it be careful, as its got some sharp edges...
starters go "click" when they are bad. try hitting the body of the starter with a hammer a few times while someone holds the key to crank. if she fires up get a new starter, the hammer blows are a temp fix.
if you go out and floor it wot and the cel starts flashing, with your miles id be checking the temp of the cats. clogged cats cause the misfires, (or you need a tune up super bad) only code you'll see is the p0300 and thats only if you scan it running still after the event. restarting the engine...
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