Intake Part No 12580678 ($204.65 Shipped)
PCV Tube Part No 12611592 ($14.30 Shipped)
Perfect example of why I avoid the Stealership at all costs...Takes about ~1 Hour to replace the intake with some hand tools...save $581.05 if you do it yourself...
The 317s are similar to the 243/799s, they have the same intake port design, the same size intake and exhaust valves, only difference is 71cc combustion chamber vs 64cc combustion chamber...you can pull the 317 heads and have them milled at a machine shop...every .006~1cc so you could have them...
As far as a “Bible Thread” I doubt you are going to find a thread where anyone has written step by step, bolt by bolt instructions. If there’s a specific issue or problem you run into or something specific you are worried about just post the question and I’m sure someone will be able to chime...
Tons of threads covering this swap...but there’s really not much to cover...pull out 5.3 then put in the 6.0...they are physically the exact same size, the extra cubic inches come from the 4.00” bore, the 6.0 and 5.3 use the exact same crank and rods, all connections are the same and yes you...
For a heavy suburban I’d recommend Cam Motion stage 1 or 2 5.3 cam...if it were me I’d go with stage 1 High Lift to keep the powerband in the lower RPMs where a heavy vehicle will need it most...
http://www.cammotion.com/camshafts/5-3-stage-1-ls-truck-camshaft-200-204-114-3/...
Part No 14232
https://www.corsaperformance.com/collections/2002-chevrolet-tahoe-5-3l-v8/products/3-0-sport-cat-back-14232?variant=624053354512
Free Bump
https://www.lockerdown.com/i-15-console-safe-2003-to-2006-chevrolet-avalanche-silverado-suburban-tahoe-gmc-yukon-sierra-model-ld2003.html?ref=category:3
Not cheap but I have one in my Avalanche and I can tell you from experience it’s a quality product with excellent fit and finish and works great
No, I never had any issues with anything leaking. When installing them I would just get everything hand tight and once you have the whole system installed and you are happy with all the clearances go back and snug everything down. Also I recommend going with OEM MLS exhaust manifold gaskets.
I don’t have FB and all the videos he has posted play fine for me...maybe it’s your browser?
Having owned both I would definitively conclude you can’t go wrong either way, one isn’t better than the other....think of it as like choosing between Lamborghini or Ferrari, there’s no wrong answer...
I just pulled the rear door panels and the rear door speakers, then used some T-tap connectors to run speaker wire from the rear -/+ to the LC2i through the door and then through the rubber wire cable grommet, then down the B Pillar, then along the floor under the door sill plate...all...
There are several used ones on eBay for less than $200 shipped...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-INCH-CHEVY-SILVERADO-TAHOE-SUBURBAN-AVALANCHE-POLISHED-GENUINE-OEM-WHEEL-5308/113596296939?epid=657212310&hash=item1a72ddeeeb%3Ag%3A5w8AAOSwSVNcSpQZ&LH_BIN=1...
IMO the LC2i is the best Line Out Converter...
you just tap into the -/+ of the 2 rear door speakers and wire them to the LC2i and then run RCAs from the LC2i to the amp...had this setup on my Avalanche with the factory head unit and it sounded great...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.