The electrical activators, especially the originals were prone to failure. Jack the frt. up with the 4wd engaged and spin the wheels by hand and see if anything feels odd.
I guess it's got some miles on it. Common for all of those parts to be worn on these trucks with some miles on them. Upper control arm bushings are also common, have someone look at them. Check the front drive axle CV joints
Top of compressor is the clutch wires. Back of the compressor should be high pressure cutoff switch that provides ground. All of this from memory so it comes with a disclaimer.
Not a good way to respond to a forum post of someone experienced trying to help. Many of us have decades of experience working on vehicles as our living. We're glad to share info but really don't need remarks like this.
While you're working on the brakes, I would replace all of the springs and the wheel cylinders, it's a 25yo vehicle. Take a good look at all of the brake lines, they are very prone to rust failure.
On SBC engines you can prime the oil system with an oil primer that goes in place of the distributor and you spin it with a drill. Or you can use a pressure tank and plumb it in through the oil pressure sensor. If you remove the distributor be sure to mark it's position and the position of the...
System is CCOT, clutch cycling orifice tube. It cycles the clutch to control the flow of freon and the clutch is controlled by the pressure switch at the accumulator. Did you follow all directions and replace the accumulator and orifice tube along with flushing the system? Are you monitoring...
We're doing some real fishing here. First off the system is a return system so if the return is wide open, like the regulator is open or injectors are open you won't build any pressure. You want to chase voltage problems, what are the voltage readings you're getting? Start with battery voltage...
Basically any open in the circuit will cause a full reading, a short to ground will cause an empty reading. The tank unit is a variable resistor to ground.
Scan the truck for codes, write all of them down then have them cleared and road test. Shouldn't have anything to do with cruise parts, they don't control transmission.
Always check voltage at the battery, needs 12.6 minimum. Clean all battery cable connections on both ends of the cables. Attach your voltmeter to the small terminal on the starter (purple wire) and then attempt to start, see what the voltage reads. If there is no voltage go back to the neutral...
Your Tahoe has torque converter clutch that is pulse width modulated controlled from the factory. It all sounds good and works great on paper until the vehicles get miles on them and things wear. The valve body in the transmission is aluminum, and modulating that steel valve back and forth wears...
No problem if you leave the wire off, but it really shouldn't matter if the system is working properly since it shouldn't energize the compressor with no charge in the system. Is the clutch engaging now? If it has no freon it shouldn't.
When you replace the compressor and other parts be sure...
370,000mi, stop throwing parts at it. First basic test is a compression test then go from there. Put a vacum gauge on it and see what the reading is, is it steady? Have you had it scanned for codes?
First simple test. Buy 2 plugs that thread into the master cylinder then step on the pedal. If you don't have a rock hard brake pedal you have something wrong at the MC, most likely it's got air. You can pump and bleed all you want if the MC has air you're not going to accomplish anything. Just...
I've had plenty of problems out of replacement front hubs, just because something was replaced doesn't mean it's good. More and more I find myself doing the same job over because of inferior parts, some bad out of the box. No such thing as a name brand or quality part anymore. I'm older than...
I would evaluate every part on the front end. Upper control arm bushings can deteriorate, also if it's been aligned and they knocked out the upper mount blanks they are bad to not hold if the bolts aren't very tight. The upper control arms can slip back and forth at the adjustment point. Also...
I guess the first question should be what is wrong that he is replacing starters so often? Do they failing to activate? Are they grinding? I have been very fortunate through the years to have local starter/alternator rebuilders nearby. The factory starter rebuilt has always been better than...
Parasitic draw test measure amp draw on battery. Anything greater than 30 milliamp draw is NG. If they aren't using a bridge and a DVOM measuring amp draw they aren't doing a parasitic draw test.
Voltage drop test is something completely different. Do the Google and you will find info on how...
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