I don't remember if this was the same one I had found before. but something like this.
https://www.automotivetouchup.com/?mallid=52&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw3P-2BhAEEiwA3yPhwAwXXjDu15PWjgLwetGV3q5CqS_RaqGtllenuolQRZzrIbLPstM6ZhoCLm8QAvD_BwE
you would have to try a automotive paint shop. they can mix it and put it on spray cans. for you.
there's also a site that will do it and ship it to you. if I remember right is was pricey thou. it's just based off you paint. code thou, so. might not be perfect.
that they do. I have learned to polish clear pretty well thou from YouTube but it takes a long time.
my thoughts going in is if I'm not going to a body shop, then how much worse can I make it anyways. along as it seals enough to keep it from rusting, it was worth the try
well the blow by you're trying to reburn is already be used, so your pvc system is really a bit of a exhaust gas recirculation. so in theory if you didn't route the pvc back into the intake, you'd get slightly more fresh air charge on the intake stroke. but how much effects that has on a daily...
ahh that makes sense that you're in a totally different Realm than our stock trucks.
back in the day they used to sell weld into the exhaust collectors big like 3/4in vac ports, so the Venturi effect or whatever it's called would cause a vac at high rpm and suck the crank case pressure out of...
as I understand, running it wide open is for not running anything back into the intake to be burned. race and drag car stuff. and then if you run boost street car you out the check valve in it, so under high boost wot high blow by you vent it, but then back at idle and part throttle it's back to...
so you run it open? have ton looked at your fuel trims? mine go crazy if I just forget to put the clean size at the air box back on. I'm curious what venting it does.
if money is not a concern, I do feel like this is one of the better ones.
https://eliteengineeringusa.com/e2-catch-can/
you need to add a vacuum port to the air intake at a high air speed location for the 3rd port so it has flow thru it at high throttle when there's no intake vacuum.
and then...
the hose seems good, oil resistance. just not long enough for my app. it has an o ring on the can and an extra for the can and the dip stick. but I added some silicone grease to the to o rings and haven't damaged one yet and I check it often.
I put this one on.. maybe it's just my truck, but it catches what I think of as a log of oil. a buddy put the same one on a ls6 c6 with the valley breather that is said to be better than the valve cover and it catches a lot too.
EVIL ENERGY Baffled Oil Catch Can,Oil Separator Catch Can 300ml...
I have the 35$ Amazon one and a 300$ Elite engineering one. honestly besides the fittings and hoses being nicer and it being a 3 port with check valves and stuff. the inside stuff that filters the air is basically the same level. I would say the 35$ one works well and catches a good amount of...
each ls coil a 100% has electronic circuits in them. they are not just coils like back in the day. they get more complicated the newer you get too, Google ls smart coils for info on that stuff. the best place to learn what it takes to fire ls coils is going to be the megasquirt message boards...
there's youtube videos explaining it and a guy here did it, having to release a stuck lifter. the afm lifters have to vent back thru those lifter valve holes, not much but just a little bit. any build up of oil, from bypassing internally or around the lifter bore will pressurize the activation...
if you still have the afm lifters installed even thou they are not active you can not add a flat cover. they lifters will be stuck closed within no time.
if you're only working on these older gm's, the clone tech 2 is probably the best bang for the buck and a known tool. so many different models of all these new tablet based scanner, hard to say what's good for what money. seems one number or letter in a model number can make a huge differences...
the 6.0 can be had in Cathedral and rectangle port heads.. the general theory says cathedral is better for low engine speed tq and rec port flow better for more hp up top. so many factors play into that thou. the hybrid 6.0 is cathedral port.
there's also a theory that smaller bore size is more...
on the tahoes the hood and hatch are aluminum, the front clip is lower got better aero, but I think I saw you need the fenders too. but the yukon and caddy didn't have the aluminum stuff.
at a yard it's probably going to be just as expensive as any other aluminum ls. a cam in your 5.3. might...
I have a hybrid but I haven't taken the engine apart, but nothing I know of would keep you from using it, not you'd definitely need afm delete. the compression ratio is higher, so you might have to run 93 in it.
only thing you might check is that it has starter bolt holes drilled. I haven't...
there's no real pvc valve like a check valve. the run full bore. there's a updated newer valve cover with a little better baffle but these engines really need a catch can installed. few good threads here about it. I have the newer style cover and my cheap 35$ Amazon catch can gets lots of oil in...
it's funny how we feel like that but every day someone walks up and does some crime right in front of a camera and no one seems to be able to stop it. in all these decent neighborhood in tx, every 3rd idiot with a pickup truck has a gun left in their truck at night with the door unlocked. kids...
so to use it as a. scanner you still gotta buy the downloaded off acdelco and it's just a pass thru? I keep wishing there was something like the clone tect 2 with the diagnostic usable without needing to involve gm at all.
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