I believe it's more the lack of old school pvc valves sucking I tons of oil into the intake because of high air flow at idle. we never really had this problem in the older ls1s that had pvc valves. my 02 camaro I had and my buddy that had a 01 c5 never have oil issues. my 08 c6 without a valve...
wow that's pretty amazing. sounds like a miserable time for it to happen too.
I'm not up on the different rear ends, just that there's a small and a bigger 14bolt I think it is? does the 3500 have a even bigger rear end?
if you can find the retained power wire at the radio somewhere. that might nice to use instead of a hard cut with the key acc. I have mine wired to acc and use it for the Bluetooth dongle so it doesn't kill the battery but it would be nice if it stayed in with the radio till you open the door or...
FL isn't what it once was. growing up there was nice, hurricanes weren't as common, or at least we didn't care much. for 35 years of my life we never even considered evacuating. hell the house I grew up in didn't even have insurance on it. Just a old wooden house that had been there as long as...
judging by the carbon around the ports those old gaskets were leaking really badly.
glad it all worked out. always nice when a repair actually fixed a problem. Hopefully it runs better. I gotta guess with that much of a leak your o2 sensor readings and stuff were off.
maybe worth a call with the case swap. tell them what you got and what you need. by scanning a working 2 speed truck and get the software #.
can't hurt to try. amazing if it worked.
I had no idea they would do that for you. that sounds like what it would take.
almost sounds to good to be true. gm isn't usually very helpful. what phone number would you call for something like that?
my feeling is once you've replaced it with the o'ringed aftermarket one, if it's still leaking. it's probably the oil pan gasket. right behind it is where the oil goes into and out of the oil filter. high pressure area.
mine was still leaking around there even after the bullit plate, I'm sure...
yeah that's the question. so if it's was humming along, you pop it in neutral and it completely goes. away. even when reved up while in neutral.
that's a interesting one. does the humming change tone or intensity as you're on and off the gas as 70mph? does it kinda come and go at different mph?
I believe the only thing gm allows you to do is flash software the vin is tied to. in other words like his radio. gm looks up the latest radio software for the module his vin code came with and flashed the software. it doesn't care enough to look at the hardware itself and it can't be undone. so...
yeah my 2011 yukon has the z95 shocks.
the older 08/09 hybrid caddy has a 3.42. I always wondered if it was the larger rear end or not. everything else got the 3.08
I'm terrible with the math, but if you can find out how much richer e55 needs to be compared to e10 gas. it was probably that much to rich before you reset everything?
I see something like e85 needs to be 30-40% more fuel for the same volume of gas, so e55 guess 25% rich?
I don't know, fuzzy...
I've used the test before on older trucks at work to test of something is bad. usually you can unplug it, it default to a set value and judging by if it runs better or worse. it can help you what a direction to go in. but since I've not actually tried it on my own gm truck, is it possible it can...
that's kinda weird it's still removing 8% fuel with the o2s unplugged.
is it possible to clear/reset those? I was expecting trims to be stuck at zero with the o2s unplugged.
edit, and it's in closed loop. yeah that didn't work at all lol.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.