I don't know, but my Jeep 4.0 had been running traditional dinosaur oil it's whole life and was not certain how well it was cared for in terms of oil changes. I never leaked a drop.
I am thinking all the deposits that were allowed to build up might have actually been helping to keep all the oil...
Good baseline to start from. At least you won't be chasing all other systems forever, only to find out problems were chassis grounds!
I am sure the expert electrical gurus will get you figured out pretty quickly.
Check if bolts are broken or missing...
Or- Maybe exhaust manifold bolts were not tightened properly when the engine was installed and worked loose after heat/cool cycles after you began driving it.
I had a code my Tech 2 identified as the LF impact sensor. Open circuit, IIRC. Forgot the code number... But anyway, I went right for that on replacement, rather than bother swapping the right side over. Tech 2 was right! It was a bad sensor on left side. I was diagnosed and done in no time.
Could very well be leak at the exhaust header/engine block... Heat can make the parts expand and seal up tight when at operating temperature.
Studs or bolts have a tendency to snap off.
Was I part of the nonsense? Not intentionally... When I was talking about checking grounds, I may have inter-tangled mention of main battery ground then rambled into mention of checking other ground locations that could cause weird electrical behaviors. Especially grounds for the PCM and BCM...
Tweakin' on another mileage OCD event!
Repeating number patterns... 21 21 21
Pay no attention to the P0455 behind the CEL curtain! We're old friends now...
You know its bad when you catch an alarming change on the cluster that makes you panic a bit. Then, you realize it was not any light that...
Dents in their website gallery were bigger than I ever expected!
Pretty impressive.
I looked and saw one company describe removing dents 44" long.
https://www.americandentspecialists.com/does-pdr-work-for-large-dent-removal
I guess technology and technique has advanced since I first heard of...
That stinks!
On the brighter side:
Once you get past your deductible, sky's the limit on the repair budget!
Anything is possible...
Maybe dentless can do something with this I don't know.
If there is a bank lean on it and being a new model, I am sure the bank will want it repaired to factory...
Maybe exhaust flange connections are less likely to happen on these. Not sure...
The two parts on the GM are flat. Probably less likely to form gaps that leak, unless the flange warped.
Where on my other vehicle the cast part of the flange was a tapered cone shape where the collector pipe...
RESPECT! You got mine! Any female willing to roll the sleeves up and tackle their own repairs is really pretty incredible. Age and ability are not directly related, so to be a female that age bracket and tackle auto repairs on her own... WOW! That is rare.
Electrical issues can be tricky, but...
I would go the easy way out for $23. This does what you want without any mods to connections in your power box...
That's what I'd go with. Less to go wrong...
Main grounds should be easy enough to locate, even without a diagram.
Negative wires from the battery... Follow to the far ends.
Grounds on the back side of the engine block and ones that bolt directly to the fender or firewall.
Grounds for inside stuff are on the driver's side, inline with...
My headliner was glued up front by a PO at some point in time...
I also have a small bit of sealer that dripped down the glass in front of the passenger seat. A couple inches from the corner.
Based on this, I would take a look at the windshield.
Remove the lid and start from the top and work your way down removing the inside "bucket" then any screws you see holding the console to the floor.
Should not be a hard job.
Steal the whole truck to cut cats off?
They could have had the cats cut out in less time than taking it and driving somewhere before cutting cats. Oh, well. Nobody claimed the perps to be as smart as Einstein...
If nothing damaged in the steering column wiring, maybe wires inside the door got...
Appear to be threaded studs for these. Threaded into the top flange. No nut on top. Nut on bottom only.
Still an area to check out. Make sure nothing is loose or has any gaps there.
Basically same setup and mechanisms in the rear HVAC box as up front, except the rear box does not have added complexities of dealing with controlling left or right. Just open/close doors for hot/cold and top/bottom ducts. One other difference for the rear HVAC is two control modules (overhead...
I had one vehicle with high fuel trim issue. Exhaust leak at the flange where the collector pipe clamps on.
The gap between the flange and collector was pulling excess air in by Venturi effect.
Excess air was detected by the upstream O2 sensor as a lean condition requiring more fuel in attempt...
I believe Z71 had painted to match body color, so my chrome bumpers must have been upgrades when the handles and mirrors went chrome too.
Short story, long... My chrome bumpers are starting to bubble through with some rust.
You gave me an idea! I could cover them with Denali covers!
But Denali...
Might not be the source of your leak and it may be of no importance, but it looks to me like there is a crack in that casting between the two inspection cover/plug/things.
Is that anything that needs attention or is that ignorable?
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