I've listed all of the problems that have cropped up but they're spread out across several threads in an attempt to get to the bottom of this.
It all started with an intermittent electrical dropout when travelling over rough roads or hitting a pot hole at cruising speeds.
From there it's led to...
An update for those that may be interested.
I went with my code reader first as I've had the most luck with it.
Here's the scoop:
After letting the disconnected battery charge for a few days, reconnecting gives full functionality to the dash. Gauges sweep as normal, etc. No start or crank as...
It doesn't make a difference what or how I'm trying to access information. Something as simple as retrieving any stored DTC's gets the no comms message. Same applies for selecting the PCM, BCM or whatever other modules I have. No comms.
Definitely vehicle related. The Innova code reader and the Tech 2 are unable to establish communication (despite being powered up by the ALDL) in the 06 while both work as expected in the 03.
I'm certain some of this issue relates to the ignition switch and it's on again, off again operation...
Thanks for the replies.
Before finding the blown fuse, the T2 wouldn't come on at all (as you might expect). With the fuse intact, I can access the full range of menus however when trying to retrieve the DTC's, I'm greeted with the "no communication" message as posted above.
Pretty sure I have...
I'm looking for the short answer to the "no communication" message I get when working with the Tech 2 and my 06 Tahoe.
Some research shows that several modules have to be tested (via a multi-meter).
Anyone experience this and care to share a shortcut to a solution?
Thanks in advance.
I've solved that problem with a new cigarette lighter fuse. There is however no communication with the PCM or any other devices.
My thinking is that the vehicle has sat for so long, outdoors in all manner of weather, that electrically, it's probably very corroded. Trouble shooting the no comms...
I've been through a maze of menus. Undoubtedly there are more still.
In the middle of it all, the Tech 2 started to malfunction. I suspect perhaps low battery as it was plugged into the 12v outlet. Interestingly, power is not available through the ALDL.
Unfortunately, no.
The Tech 2 shows that no DTCs are present.
It does show issues with DTCs having been thrown however the specific numbers are not present.
With the battery having been removed and replaced (numerous times) since the vehicle last ran, which was more than a year ago, as well as...
Why did you unplug the cluster? What it because of the new BCM? I don't see it as part of the Passlock re-learn procedure.
Certainly doesn't look like it.
Now that said, trying the relearn procedure for Passlock III didn't get me anywhere. The security didn't stay on as suggested in the...
My hope is that the Tech 2 will help pinpoint the cause of the no start /no crank condition. At this point (and I've since abandoned the project for the time being) not getting the vehicle started is the frustrating part. Once its up and running again I sure that other troubleshooting will be...
I've not managed to find the problem. Now that said, I've spent very little time working on the vehicle. I've replaced it with an 03 Tahoe, which not surprisingly has developed a few electrical gremlins of it's own.
As for the original problem (on the 06 Tahoe) I purchased a Tech 2 scanner from...
Thanks Silver. That at thread is precisely what I was looking for.
Now if I can figure out the proper method for getting the door panel off and all of the various clips and retainers without having it end up looking like the passenger control pad (now conveniently held in with tape thanks to the...
There are several threads about this. My problem runs similar to many of those.
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/driver-door-ajar.87568/
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/drivers-door-ajar.59265/
What I haven't found, other than through a dealer (as referenced in one those...
Now that it's been explained (to me) that the mounting points are the same (and thanks to all who demonstrated that) it's easy to dig into substitute parts.
As an example when comparing the Z55/Autoride delete vs 4 corner lowering:
The Arnott's least expensive kit at $515...
I had considered the lowered approach as well. Seeing as the rear springs and four shocks are getting replaced for the Autoride conversion, the only additional change looks to be the offset keys for the front bars. Might as well just go for the lowered look when losing the Z55 option.
I see the kits include a replacement spring.
Interestingly, while I had the truck in for an inspection, the mechanic commented that the rear shocks were of the passive variety. I don't have any unusual ride qualities that you've suggested might occur with the original springs. Could be the...
I had come across several articles too but they were more towards replacing the Autoride with aftermarket parts but similar in function to the OEM. Like replacement compressors and air shocks.
What I was after was whether I could take the plain passive shock absorbers from my non-Autoride 06 and...
Did a search but didn't find what I'm looking for specifically.
Subject: 2003 Tahoe with the Z55 Autoride suspension.
The Autoride function is damaged beyond any reasonable repair (to me).
My question is whether the mounting points for the front and rear shock absorbers are the same regardless...
Go figure. I'd never suspect something as benign as a light ground to be a source of trouble like that. It's no wonder my truck is dead. Of the dozens of ground connections, I can imagine that more than a few of them are in poor condition.
I've picked up a Tech 2 scanner but still have to get...
So after trying that: GM lists one and only one sensor for all available positions. 12587785
Good.
Cross referencing that with Rock Auto gets 4 manufacturers, with one that lists two different PNs.
Not good.
Going to my on-line distributor (Wrench Monkey.com for any of you Canadians out there)...
I haven't had the chance to look anything more up on-line but my guess is it's the connector at the sensor that's the difference one way or the other. That would explain the PN differences. Upstream or downstream similarities notwithstanding.
My only real reason for checking it out this way is...
Good old Rock Auto. While it isn't economical for me (as a Canadian) to use them, they do have a pretty thorough website. I'll be sure to take a look.
I forgot about Amazon as well.
I'll look into that too.
Seems that from all indications, the upstream and downstream parts are the same. It's...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.