A scan of the fault codes indicates an O2 sensor has failed.
I've gone through the list of my on-line parts supplier however they aren't entirely clear. All part numbers are associated with upstream and downstream sensors.
So far I've come up with: 15730, 15284.
Does anyone have a list for the...
At one point, I lived where they pounded the road with salt. Then that was refined to a pre-snowstorm brine soaking that laid dormant in the pavement until moisture hit it. That was wonderful stuff (he said sarcastically). Then I moved west to Alberta where the story goes that it's too cold for...
I've gone ahead with the upper ball joint replacement by way of replacing the entire a-arm assembly.
Easy? BS!!
I guess there's no accounting from rust and corrosion.
The story (so far) reported here.
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/upper-a-arm-replacement.99704/
As a follow up to my earlier questions here at:
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/upper-and-lower-ball-joints-w-wo-hub-removal.99082/
I've gone ahead with the upper ball joint replacement via the complete a-arm assembly.
What a royal pain in the ass!
With the ball joint came loose from...
Don't be surprised. The question was: Do the hubs had to be removed from the spindle/knuckle? This is hardly intuitive as was demonstrated by the many and varied replies. Maybe you should have responded earlier. That might have actually been helpful.
Placed an order the other day and will be receiving the MOOG upper control arm assembly (RK80942) and the lower ball joints (K6541).
Watching the Car Doctor video explained the need not to remove the hub from the knuckle (which incidentally was the point of this thread in the first place.)...
I suspect my hubs are also original and are likely going to be difficult to remove. That said, it may that they don't need replacing or that they have been replaced. In either case, I'll log a few miles on this new to me truck and get a feel for what's in need of servicing and what can survive...
I will say that after watching 1A Auto's upper control arm video that it looks enticingly easy. And possibly easier than trying to press the ball joint out of the a-arm.
Things that make you go hmm...
I should explain that what I'm trying to avoid here is any extra work. I've had a long career as a tradesman and one of the things I've learned is not doing what isn't necessary.
This isn't to say that any or all of those suggestions aren't good ones because I can see and understand that they...
Well, for what it's worth, I've actually witnessed on video, the "Disgruntled Mechanic" knock the upper and lower ball joints out of his Silverado with the hub intact. I can't say much for his technique but he got results.
Now if the rust and corrosion isn't too bad, I'm hopeful that it can be...
Truer words were never spoken. (And I've done plenty of both in all the days I've been working on vehicles. And to think at one time in my life I had considered making this a career.)
No. Not fear. I've changed hubs before and it's an experience I didn't much care for. What I've learned is that with 170 000 miles on roads in this country, these hubs will pretty much have welded themselves to the knuckle. Removal has proven to be a major PITA in the past and if I don't have to...
That may be but other than one YouTube video, I haven't heard of anyone else accomplishing this without removing the hub.
I suppose a fellow could give the hub intact approach a go and then if all else fails, remove it.
(I prefer 2WD)
Still another option is to use a death wheel and cut the joint in half between the knuckle (spindle) and the control arm. Then there's room to use a press to punch out the pieces.
Still waiting on a definitive answer.
Subject: 2003 4WD Tahoe
A dozen searches seem to produce a dozen different answers. Same with watching some of the (inane) YouTube how-to videos.
My question: Is it entirely necessary to remove the bearing/hub assembly when replacing the ball joints?
Obviously I'm looking for the simplest...
Thanks for that. Something I'll be sure to investigate.
As a follow-up, I purchased a complete service manual from:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-Suburban-Tahoe-Yukon-Escalade-2000-2006-Service-Repair-Manual-/262735761691
Plenty of schematics in there although I've yet to go through it...
That's not the first time someone has mentioned them.
I ordered a complete service manual and depending on how thorough it is, I may have to make a visit to the alldata website.
Thanks for that.
I believe that information was mentioned once before but I had lost track of it.
I've just sent off an e-mail to the e-bay seller. Failing that, I'll pursue AllDataDIY.
The electrical portion of the switch has been replaced and from I can tell, needlessly as there was no change in the operation of the vehicle. This isn't to say it isn't contributing to the problem but a full set of drawings would go a long way.
Which leads to my next reply...
I will!
How is this working for you?
Did you need to order anything over and above what comes with the scanner?
I have a 2006 that I'll be attempting this on.
(posted over at this thread too)
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/finally-ordered-a-tech2-need-help.98343/page-2
How is this working for you?
Did you need to order anything over and above what comes with the scanner?
I have a 2006 that I'll be attempting this on.
Took a quick look but I didn't see your model and year.
(posted over at this thread too)
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/tech-2.93908/page-5
There are a few I can think right off the top.
And the PCM is not unlike a PLC. Just like a PLC you need the hardware and software to have a look inside....
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