Upper and Lower Ball Joints w/wo Hub Removal

[Alberta Tahoe]

Subject: 2003 4WD Tahoe

A dozen searches seem to produce a dozen different answers. Same with watching some of the (inane) YouTube how-to videos.
My question: Is it entirely necessary to remove the bearing/hub assembly when replacing the ball joints?
Obviously I'm looking for the simplest solution.
One school of thought says yes. You have to remove the hub (and move the axle) so as to get a ball joint press in there.
Another says that the tried and true method of smashing the knuckle with a BFH will knock things apart (as I've done many times on vehicles other than this truck). Then use the press with the arm clear of the knuckle/hub and axle.
Still another suggestion is to remove the control arms and press out the ball joints on the bench.
Who has done and with what level of success?
Thanks in advance.

 

[Alberta Tahoe]

Still another option is to use a death wheel and cut the joint in half between the knuckle (spindle) and the control arm. Then there's room to use a press to punch out the pieces.
Still waiting on a definitive answer.

 

[PG01]

Seems like you got it pretty well covered....

 

[Alberta Tahoe]

That may be but other than one YouTube video, I haven't heard of anyone else accomplishing this without removing the hub.
I suppose a fellow could give the hub intact approach a go and then if all else fails, remove it.
(I prefer 2WD)

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Is there something scaring you about removing the hub? It's pretty easy, really. You could put nice Timken ones on it then, too. They're only $100/side.

 

[Alberta Tahoe]

No. Not fear. I've changed hubs before and it's an experience I didn't much care for. What I've learned is that with 170 000 miles on roads in this country, these hubs will pretty much have welded themselves to the knuckle. Removal has proven to be a major PITA in the past and if I don't have to do it, then I would just as soon avoid it.
Now at this point, there's no evidence that the hubs are less than satisfactory so I'm hopefully good to go there. Not that it's necessarily a price issue but a Timken hub is $220 up this way if go through a mail order house. $300 is I try the local auto parts store.(We get royally hosed on a lot a car parts here in Canada). If I can save the cost and aggravation, so much the better.
So, back to it. IS it doable or is that just wishful thinking on my part?

 

[HiHoeSilver]

No. Not fear. I've changed hubs before and it's an experience I didn't much care for. What I've learned is that with 170 000 miles on roads in this country, these hubs will pretty much have welded themselves to the knuckle. Removal has proven to be a major PITA in the past and if I don't have to do it, then I would just as soon avoid it.
Now at this point, there's no evidence that the hubs are less than satisfactory so I'm hopefully good to go there. Not that it's necessarily a price issue but a Timken hub is $220 up this way if go through a mail order house. $300 is I try the local auto parts store.(We get royally hosed on a lot a car parts here in Canada). If I can save the cost and aggravation, so much the better.
So, back to it. IS it doable or is that just wishful thinking on my part?

Anything is doable if you swear lots and hit it hard enough.

 

[Alberta Tahoe]

Truer words were never spoken. (And I've done plenty of both in all the days I've been working on vehicles. And to think at one time in my life I had considered making this a career.)

 

[mattbta]

I did all ball joints this summer on my Texas 2004. Owned since new. The hubs came off a hell of a lot easier than separating the lower BJ from the knuckle. After beating the knuckles into a deformed mess, it took a big pickle fork with a 6' piece of pipe over it to separate.

I mention Texas because we have no rust issues...but I had a hell of a time with separating the lower BJ. So much that I couldn't get I broken free all day Saturday and couldn't sleep all night worrying. Once it was separated, chiseling the edges off and pressing them out was cake. New ones went in easy.

I'd take the hub off. I can't remember if there was enough clearance get the press oriented.

 

[Bigbertha78]

I replaced all the ball joints and the bushings on the front suspension. I was able to remove the upper control and replace it with a complete new unit. Then, I was able to remove the lower control arm and have a shop press out the old bearing/bushings with new and reinstall. All without removing the hub assembly. I was able to replace them one at a time. Hopefully this will help.