@swathdiver How do you know it's time to replace the steering rack itself? I haven't tested the tie rod ends yet but I'm at 200k miles so I am thinking of replacing the steering rack as well.
@KidWgn I haven't heard about this, what is the problem with the del sphere joints? I've had their panhard bar with those joints on for a few years and I have no complaints. But I remember that if you don't tighten the joints enough they will give you a bad time.
@swathdiver I think I covered that in my inspection but I’ll double check by disconnecting the tie rod from the knuckle and seeing if the symptom persists.
The Tahoe rides great expect above 70mph it starts to get micro death wobble and it feels terrible. Not sure if it’s the tires or if this...
Since my last update I have discovered a problem on the driver side, there is a click in the wheel when moving it in the 12 and 6 positions. After much inspection I determined it was the wheel bearing and warrantied the timken unit and still had the problem. I thought it was the upper control...
@tahjoe Looks good man, that's a lot of lift in the rear I bet your rear axle is off center. You'll need a panhard bracket or adjustable panhard bar to recenter the rear wheels
@Campbesl I forgot to add that there is a metal band that is stamped onto the inner tie rod boot, you’ll need some snips to break it off and then just use a hose clamp to resecure it when you put it back together
I won’t be taking anything apart this time, the bad part is returned as part of the warranty process. Sent the made in USA back and have the Korean installed currently
@petethepug Thanks for the info. On a side note I did some digging and it looks like my Korean timkens are rebranded iljin bearings. I guess they are some OEM manufacturer out of Korea.
@Campbesl Start with the parking brake on and put jack stands under the frame near the front doors and get the front wheels off the ground.
I suggest doing 1 side at a time.
Remove the 2 brake caliper bolts and remove the caliper and rotor.
Start by loosening the ball joint nuts until they...
@Campbesl I recommend a large adjustable wrench for the inner tie rods. Probably needs to open up at least 2 inches if not more.
A large sledge hammer and good sized pickle fork is a must for the ball joints.
A jack with 2 jack stands.
Wrenches and ratchets with sockets, and a torque wrench...
Replacement Timken showed up but I noticed it was different than the first set I bought. Turns out this new one is made in Korea and the last 2 were made in USA.
@mikez71 As far as leveling and lift go, I've been there done that and now I'm back to stock.
In my opinion you can't cheat a lift so unless you are getting a full lift kit with all the brackets just stick with stock, at least that's been my experience
@the blur I wonder if popping the oil fill cap will help relieve crankcase pressure allowing the oil to properly settle into the oil pan instead of sticking in the dipstick tube
Following up on this, I took it back to the shop and they said that the wheels had some strange wear on them so they just rotated them and sent me on my way. The ride is a bit better now but still some shimmy. Found out one of my new wheel bearings is bad already so that could be contributing to...
@swathdiver Yea it rocks back and forth a bit, I was able to get it off in about 20 minutes and with the hub in my hands i can't tell anything is wrong but when it's installed and I spin it by hand it sounds like there is a needle rattling around but it doesn't feel grindy or loose. Was hoping I...
@Charlie207 I might be dumb in assuming they are, the wheels are OEM chevy wheels and I'm using regular wheel hubs so they should be hub centricing themselves
A couple months ago I installed new Timken bearings and I noticed today the Tahoe was a bit squirrely on the freeway. Jacked it up when I got home and my drive wheel hub is freaking loose.
I am tired of working on this thing, I don't understand why these new parts are bad already.
Ordered a...
@Prometheus_Lens Looking at Moogs website I am under the impression that the 81244 springs are the comparable version for the front. That is why I am running 81244 springs in the front.
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