Yes behind the cover. It's the junction box that sends the ground over to the LH side junction box under the dash and then up throughout the interior of the truck.
Yes! Thanks. Couple mistakes I made sent me down a rabbit hole tearing apart the interior of the truck looking for a ghost.
#1 You cannot measure resistance on a ground while current is traveling through the circuit. So on a vehicle it must be pretty much asleep before testing.
#2 Shouldn't...
Thank you. I got it off without breaking it! And I'm testing voltage on the ground at the connector for the dome lights! About 3/4 of a volt. According to all data the ground for the lights is G200 which I believe is the passenger side under the dash panel. I'm getting zero volts on the body...
Got the dash pad off and both the grounds test good. It's definitely the dome light causing the issue. I can recreate the high resistance on the grounds just by reaching in the window and turning a dome light on. Anyone have advice on how to pull the front light assembly down from the headliner...
I guess if you inherited a poorly maintained engine full of sludge this would be something to look at. But someone who had an engine they know had been properly maintained and had oil changed at the proper intervals I don't feel these type of products are really neccessary. Especially on just...
So after watching a ton of videos I started doing voltage drop tests. Everything test good inside the engine compartment. I pulled the passenger seat just to check those grounds(there's two locations bolted to the body) under the seat and they check fine. So I wanted to check the grounds by...
Yes. The grounds all test good until the a door is opened. Then everything goes bad. I'm thinking somewhere inside the truck a voltage source is crossing paths with a ground.
While investigating ground locations I found this module with some ghetto wire repairs. It's the "Rear view camera image displacement module". Anyone have any idea what it actually does? And does it wake up when the doors are opened? Gonna try and get the seat out this week to investigate further.
So after doing some testing from the headlight switch I was able to determine that whenever a door is opened and the interior lights come on all the grounds on the truck go to s**t. They go from no resistance at all to over a 100. I close the door, the light slowly dimming to off and the...
Little update not related to the flickering lights. I'm standing in front of my house looking at the Yukon thinking about what @Doubeleive said about the sensors on the mirror so I walked over to check them out. Low and behold there's a sticker placed over the square front facing sensor. I...
Right now I'm just going to test the ground from the headlight switch connector and see what I get. The procedure I'm using is with a multi meter putting on probe on the negative battery terminal and the other probe on the ground I want to test. With the meter on ohms the resistance should be...
Stock radio and everything seems to be working fine. I was just messing around one day with the Tech-2 and noticed I couldn't comunicate with the amp. It's another issues I've been putting up with for a few months. I need to do some testing from the amp which I believe is under the center console.
Thanks for the info! We don't have anything blocking the sensors so I'll have to do some testing. All Data has the procedure but I haven't had a chance to do it yet.
Yes. All interior and exterior lights flicker but I'm not 100% sure about dash lighting. It's tough to tell. I also have an issue with the auto dimming mirrors getting too dark at the wrong times and I cannot comunicate with the radio amp using my tech 2. Wonder if it's related
I tried it with the RVC unplugged and no change. Fuse box has no signs of corrosion. The ground for the lights is the one on the left front bumper support correct?
So I checked all the grounds in the engine compartment and so far everything is testing good. I need to get to the ones behind the bumper and check those next but it's hot as hell right now in Jersey so might wait a few days. Also swapped batteries from the Suburban and the issue remains. I have...
I think your problem might be a little different than mine since you actually have some devices not working properly. My only issues is flickering lights. As far as checking grounds I check resistance by putting the multi meter on ohms and placing one probe of the meter on the negative battery...
I never checked with the engine off...I will tonight but since the flickering seems to be cause by increased RPM'S of the engine I doubt it. I'm gonna have a few cold ones after dinner and do some resistance checks on my engine grounds.
Yes. I tried cleaning them but still flickering so replaced everything. That terminal comes with the GM replacement cable that runs to the fuse box. The new fuse looks rusted but it's not..the brass came that color from the factory.
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