Hey everyone, Looking for some opinions. The flex pipe on my 10 Burb rotted out just before the ball and socket joint and is leaking bad. I was going to bring it to a muffler shop to see if they can weld something in place to fix it but I think I'm going to go with a cat-back kit instead. I'm...
So is the CAN down or not? If it is that's why the truck is not starting and you're gonna need wiring diagrams. First step is to check ohm's with a volt meter at the Obd port to see if the CAN is intact. I'm not sure what the correct ohmage should be and what two ports you need to check but you...
Oil pressure is good. Take the serpentine belt off and run the truck to see if the tick goes away. That way you can eliminate the accessories as a source of the tick.
I would stop running it as well before you damage the cam. I would say it almost certainly a collapsed lifter. On my Suburban I did the AFM delete but on my Yukon when a non AFM lifter went bad I pulled the head only on that side replaced the lifter trays and due to lack of funds used the old...
It's a bad lifter. You won't need a new motor but you have a decision to make such as just repairing the failed lifter like for like or deleting the failure prone AFM lifters in the motor. Tons of info on these fourms of multiple different approaches you can take. Obviously you need to have this...
Any smoke coming out of the tail pipe on first start up of the day?Is the coolant level dropping with no visible signs of a leak? Reason I ask is my wife overheated our Burb that eventually caused a head gasket failure that turned into a misfire on I believe was cyl 4. Coolant would leak...
Greetings from N.J.! You might want to factor in a good scanner into your budget. Especially if you're going to keep the truck. I went with the Tech 2 clone which was about $500. It's paid for itself multiple times over in just a year.
I did my DOD delete in my driveway with everone on this...
Yes..at your miles failed parts in the cooling system is extremely common. Just about everyone on this fourm would replace everything just to be safe. $1900 seems outrageous especially since they're not replacing everything. But that's why most of us D.I.Y.
+1 as not knowing we have coolant...
You could go with this for $40 and repair the hinge. I have them on both my trucks and they work well and are greaseable. A little bit of a pain to install though.
I have both a regular size Yukon and a Suburban. If you plan on carrying any kind of cargo at all without folding the third row down go with the Burb. It's almost comical how little room is behind the third row in Tahoes and Yukon's! Can't even fit a case of water! Lol.
First step is you're gonna need a good scanner that shows live data. Then check for misfires which you probably don't have or the check engine light would be on.After that usual troubleshooting steps on engine performance. I would think analyzing fuel trims would be next. If your gonna keep...
I had an issue with water in the d/s door on the Yukon and the cause ended up being a missing seal/gasket on the rear view mirror. Installed new gasket and all good since.
I jacked mine up with a 2x4 on the cat converter. Others have had success with a block of wood on the back of the pil pan. Whatever you do make sure it's stable. Last thing you want is the jack to kick out when you messing with the mount.
Double check all your hoses but I'm guessing it's probably leaking from one of the seams on the Radiator..pretty common failure point. As stated in a previous post, never a bad idea to replace everything on a high mileage coolant system.
Just ordered! Saved $2 but still cost about $50 with shipping and tax. Now just need to research how to put it in without destroying the headliner...Thanks again everyone..
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