Awesome even better that this guy is located in Phoenix. That way I can have my dad pick and it is sitting in his garage when I go down to visit him and mom in again in August. The price on the 6.0 is good too.
Putting a new motor in my rig is a much quicker fix than tearing it down to the...
Hey guys,
Can anyone give me some suggestions on who makes/sells reputable crate motors or long blocks that I could replace my motor with? I read that I should stay away from atk long blocks. I was just thinking about going this route since I can swap a motor faster than tearing my motor down...
Truck doesn’t misfire and it runs fine. Just has a lifter squeal which has turned to lifter knock. But it has been sitting after I bought my Chevy Cruze.
All those gaskets were in the basket for the repair. I can’t do cam bearings. I don’t have a machine shop in town and I would have to take the engine to Reno, Boise, salt lake, or California to get that done. My second vehicle is a Chevy Cruze so it not like I can just put engine block in the...
Well $31 for a new gm gasket isn’t too bad on rock auto. The diff will be coming out since I have a leaking axle seal that needs to be replaced it won’t be suck a pain in the butt to drop the pan. Plus front timing cover is coming off because I have to replace my chewed up cam.
Yeah that job really does suck unless the differential is completely removed then it is not really that especially with power tools. But what about when people pull their front cover or change out their rear cover and main seal. I mean the part that touches the cover gets re-used and you just...
oh okay. I think I should be fine then. I know if my truck leaks more oil than it already does from the rear cover gasket. I know I will need to do the pan again.
The gasket is about 6months old with 10k miles on it when I changed it back in October. It seems like it is relatively new so I wouldn’t be a big deal as long as I rtv the cover corners. I was just seeing if this is possible to do in order to save some money when I drop the pan to clean lifter...
Thank you for that explanation. I probably won’t have to worry about doing it then since I am going to remove one valve at a time to clean an then reinstall with new seal and spring, then move to the next valve. Plus it’s another $10 I don’t have to spend on materials and then have to explain to...
Did some research and it turns out that cam is advanced 4 degrees so it’s intake center line is at 112 degrees. Basically it gives the cam low end and the exhaust comes later. I might consider it if it’s still on sale lol.
Here is a good video that may help you pin point the issue. It is related to the ground. It seems like anything electrical in my experience on these trucks alway seem to be the grounds.
Yup that’s the plan to get the cam from summit racing. I saw that package for $394. I am unsure about their valve seals. I have heard nothing but good things about the fel pro seals. On my rockauto parts list I can get Melling valve springs for $54 and fel pro seals for $19. Still $20 cheaper...
Would it be okay to reuse the stock springs for now until I funds to put some ls6 springs in? I don’t run the truck hard or anything and it’s going to be on factory tune for a while so it won’t go past 5500 rpms or whatever it maxes out at. The improvement I want to see from the cam is more...
I was planning on doing one cylinder at a time. Removing valve spring, the seal/seat the valve. Clean and put In back together. The lapping took and compound is only $10 total and probably adds a few extra minutes to the reinstall time.
When I replace them cam and lifters on my Yukon xl. Since then heads are going to be off, I was going to clean and rebuild them on my kitchen table. I was seeing videos and threads where people would lap the valves when doing this. I also have read where a member on here did a cam swap and afm...
Make sure you do not reuse the stock cam. It is designed for afm and the lift on the afm lobes is different compared to a stock lm7 cam. Your truck will misfire and run like crap and annoy you.
It also could be a chewed up roller lifter that took the cam with it. That is usually associated with 200k plus mile motors. Mainly gen 3 motors. I have read instances where it has happened as early as 90k miles. Those types of failures usually don’t misfire like a collapsed afm lifter keeping...
I just got lucky and figured out that whoever installed the aftermarket pigtail harness didn’t do a good job crimping the connections. It took a little bit of trial and error, but wiggled the pigtail to cause the error code.
It’s holding up great. I put 10k plus miles on my Yukon after I found the root cause of my reduced engine power. It has not come back and it’s been almost four months. The truck is sitting now since it decided to have a lifter spin/collapse back at the end of December and take the cam with it...
If I have to pull the pan, I might as well pull the front differential. It has an axle seal that I need to address too.might be quicker and easier to pull the pan that way.
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