For anyone who may be following this thread, I was able to confirm there was a leak in the 5/8" A/C return line, under the rubber protector. I was able to confirm this very slow leak by pressurizing the system to 50 psi with my air compressor and using soapy water. I plan to fix it using this...
Are those Colorado shocks on a K2 Yukon? Did you have Multimatics on the front as well?
Can you please go into some detail on how you like them for the street and light off roading?
Yeah, the T1's certainly have the upper strut mount up higher, and therefore have longer struts for any given ride height.
I think if @Favored has room to bolt the lower strut mount below the A-arm (which supposedly lowers the truck 1.5-2" according to another thread on this forum), he could...
The ZR2 rear shocks measure 25-7/16" fully extended and 16" fully compressed (measurements taken from center of mounting holes). The front struts measure 22-7/8" from the top mounting surface to the bottom of the lower mounting stud.
Unfortunately I do not have K2 parts in front of me for...
I can't answer on behalf of the OP, but I was thinking of using my set of ZR2 shocks on a 2014-2018 truck build. The Multimatic DSSV dampers are arguably the best passive shocks on the market. Would I remove a fully functional Magneride system on a street cruiser in favor of the Multimatics...
Yes, I if I knew the spring rate of your original springs (assuming you want the same wheel rate as when your truck was stock), the spring rate of the ZR2 springs, and the exact dimensions of your lower control arm, I could do the math.
There are 10+ front spring options for different Yukons...
Doesn't seem like the flip would be too much trouble, I guess you might have to loosen the top bolts too if you really had to muscle them in there. You just need to get the lower shock mount around and below the mount on the A-arm. Based on your description, mounting them below would also put...
Yeah that's a fair point. I have another idea I just posted, but apparently a moderator needs to approve before you can see it, probably because there's a link in the post.
Anyway, did you have to drill new holes in the upper strut mount, or did the ZR2s bolt right in?
Honestly I'd just be guessing if you had room to go back far enough having not seen firsthand or ridden in your truck. You'd need steel arms as a starting point for modification anyway, so you wouldn't have much to lose in that regard. Take it a step at a time... try drilling holes as far back...
The angle of the arm doesn't really affect the wheel rate (aka stiffness) of the suspension - it's all about the motion ratio. See figure below. All of the lowering control arms I'm aware of maintain the same motion ratio as stock so the truck rides the same before and after being lowered.
To...
Drop lower control arms would get your ride height where it needs to be, but it wouldn't change the wheel rate of the suspension; i.e. it wouldn't make the struts compress more with the truck on the ground. Based on your comments, your truck would likely still be way too stiff in the front, and...
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