I had a bad U joint cause this. Replaced one with a 10 dollar auto zone part and it went bad 6 months later. Had the vibration and figured it wasn't the u joint so I took it to a shop and it was another bad joint. $300 dollar lesson learned.
Shopped called and said its bad lifter and I should replace all 16 to the tune of 2k. Seems high. Plus there could be more surprises inside once they open the motor.
I thought it was the TC as well but the noise was faint at first and continues to get worse and worse every time the motor is started. I thought about towing it to the dealer to get a second opinion as it's definitely internal and not on the top of the engine where the lifters are. Would...
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Just dropped my 2006 Tahoe off at the shop for a clanging noise come from the back of the engine by the transmission. Shop says it is something under the cylinder head, I think he said valve rollers? Common problem they say. Anyone had a similar problem? I have seen online about the...
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Just got my 98 Yukon back from the shop after an attempted theft. Long story short they replaced parts in the steering column and when I went to pick it up the SRS light was on. Of course the typical shop/insurance crap happens and they blame it on a pre existing problem. I have been...
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My 2006 Tahoe is still having problems with the fan speed 4 not working. I replaced the resistor and checked all the fuses. Still no luck. Any suggestions? Could I have gotten a faulty resistor?
Great, thank you for the advice. I will check these out. Full coverage is on it but an alarm will be some extra piece of mind. Anyone know where the power line for the fuel pump is accessible in the engine bay?
Yeah I looked at those. Not sure the value is there on those for me at 120 bucks a pop. The chumps couldn't get my doors open as it was and just broke out the rear quarter panel window and used the unlock button on the back column. I disconnected the driver door and rear hatch rods that unlock...
I had a similar problem and it ended up being a bad connector on the ground cable to the battery. I turned the car on and all the lights and jiggled all the wires till I found it.
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Some thieves tried to steal my Yukon Monday night and did about 2k in damages to the truck. Fortunately they were unable to get it started after all their effort. Once I get this back from the shop I am going to add an alarm system and fuel cut off switch. Any recommendations on an alarm...
On another note. My mechanic told me the flange on my rear axles is ever so slightly bent. He said it's still drive able but I need to keep an eye on it. Any recommendations on replacement axles? I looked up an article on wheel bearing replacement and it seems pretty straight forward to do this...
My u-joint went bad again and the brakes are toast in the back. I replaced the u-joint about a year ago with the 10 dollar one from Auto-zone, guess it didn't last. The u-joint is causing the vibration and the brakes caused the shudder when braking at the end.
Well I couldn't determine where the sound is coming from last night. No play in the wheels I took the the drive shaft off the diff and the part where the drive shaft connects to the diff has about 1/2 inch turning play in each direction. Is that normal? Anyway I am just going to take it to my...
No I don't, just regular oem style equipment. The noise just started yesterday so I am not sure I will be able to find out where the play is. Hopefully something gives it away. There are so many squeaks and groans with this truck that it's hard to pick up new sounds but I am pretty sure I have...
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This weekend I started to hear a humming noise when driving on the highway. It seems to happen when cruising and slowing down mostly, it definitely sounds rotational. It also cuts out sometimes but always comes back when slowing down. There seems to be a tiny bit of vibration in the car...
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I replaced the blower motor resistor in our 2006 Tahoe last weekend. When I checked the speed 4 it worked fine. Later in the day as we were driving around it stopped working again. I checked the fuses and there are none that look to have burned. Any suggestions? Since it worked right...
I know this is an old post but I believe I am looking for some of these. It is a square looking rubber block that sits between the upper control arm and the frame I think. The stock ones look totally different than the ones pictured above. Mine are held on with some kind of slide and are square...
So I finally got around to replacing the resistor under the dash. The 4 selector worked fine right after i installed it but shortly after it stopped working again. So apparently the problem is something else. Any suggestions? Fuses look good.
I had this problem. It ended up being bad light switches in the door jam. My driver side was not closing all the way. I bought all new switches on rock auto for like 2 dollars a piece.
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