No need to put anything on the trans gasket , there are tabs on the pan that line it up and keep it in place . Get a new gasket it's peace of mine and easy to replace while everything is out .
Looks like the rubber boot is torn , just odd as it's been sitting for almost 3 months other than the one tow . Never gets driven daily and I always inspect shocks and greasable joints every oil change .
If you have the stock trans cooler all you need is a bolt kit of your choice, local advanced Auto parts has them .
One flat bar of aluminum and a way to cut it. The stock lines are thin and you can heat and bend them easy. Also need to trim the lower plastic panel. Napa has the fittings for...
During state inspection found out a blown out rear air shock on my 09 Yukon Denali.
No suspension code and no air compressor running constantly either, also loaded up for vacation today and no sag. Strange that I towed 4k last month and it was level as can be.
You can make the stock lines work with fittings to the 40 k cooler, flip the bottom bracket drill holes and reuse the stocks bolts. I made the bracket 1/4 aluminum.
Interesting you say dont go aftermarket, I have my mishimoto radiator still on deck to install and was going to replace it before I make a 600 mile trip down to NC with my enclosed trailer in tow.
Have not driven in about 3 other than around the block to get trans fluid up to temp and noticed I have the dreaded quarter panel rust and I need to get it state inspected.
check and make sure the megafuse is not grounding out on the firewall stud first. If all is tight there then take the alternator to go get tested. Its a 10 minute job to remove.
On the bottle of the tank near the bracket for the air box. Its a small hole, I would go for a drive and get the car hot and look under the bottle where the fender liner is you will see drips. I never noticed it until I shook the bottle and saw it start to drip.
There is also a pressure relief valve on the expansion tank. I had mine go bad, didnt notice it until it actually started to leak coolant ever so slowly that could be lowering the psi of the cooling system pressure and making it less effective.
I have had the temp go up to about 225/ 230 but it has always gone back down while towing and never above that . It seemed to cycle while in tow haul mode . This was 5000 lbs extra height enclosed trailer
I have never had my compressor kick on at Al when starting , even when towing it didn't say or activate . I have no codes for suspension but I'd like to activate the compressor to make sure it is working .
I have a little more room with it being ory headers but it still sucked.
I attempted the second go around on the front difft fill bolt . I am going to weld a nut on it , it's stripped to bad that it's now a 15mm not 19m. I tried heat and kroil and a stripped stocket set .
Changed trans fluid last night, just dropped the pan and replaced filter. What a ***** that back left bolt is. Also replaced all the aged and cracking wire loom.
Check your terminals at the battery. Everything you just described happening is exactly what happened to me and it was loose terminals on the battery. Tightened and it fixed everything.
I may be switching over to ls30. I too was using valvoline but switched back to Mobile one and pressures cold and hot are much better but after reading the ls30 specs I am going to be giving it a try before my first tow next weekend.
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