Here's a video with some info..
Sounds like this guy had an engine code that prevented it from starting, but he does go over some requirements for remote start to work..
Also seen a thread about a bad hood latch wire which prevented remote start.
Looking at the diagram below, it appears...
https://www.gmupfitter.com/light-duty-vehicles/light-duty-prior-to-2013/
Some of the later diagrams don't include the stuff from earlier years.
I find myself using the '08 wiring diagram for most things (latest complete diagram I can find)...
Exactly. It is just another differential between your front and rear driveshafts.
In the 4WD tahoes, there is no diff in the xfer case, it just locks front and rear together. Rear is always connected.
An AWD sytem with all open diffs could potentially(theoretically?) get 3 wheels stuck and spin...
So you did pop the driveshaft out of the transfercase before/as it started rolling?
Because it could have been bad if still attached to the transfer case when you told her to hit the gas...
Reminding me of a video where a guy's jacket sleeve caught and sucked him into a big lathe.
You can buy a tech2 clone for ~$400.
He might be using a newer scanner, but the tech2 will do everything available for our trucks.. in case you get more issues in the future..
Good luck and keep us posted!
It's not too bad, but you risk breaking some clips forsure..
Every morning lately the dash is dim. Bright enough for sunglasses (cloudy) but my dash is dark.
I will be happy to finally wire a switch, I'm just looking for a good 3 position dial ...
I think your trans is still cold, there is a dic display that shows trans temp.
I think 160F is warmed up... Usually takes me about 15-20 minutes of driving around..
If it hasn't ever been changed, it's a good time to do it.
Even though I thought my oil looked decent on the dipstick, the first...
Guessing it is a blown motor mount.
I had a bad one, and it oozed on the front diff much like yours.
Not sure about the rumble strip feeling.. tcc slipping?
Good time to check the plug again too.. I once cracked a plug during installation..
Though it sounds like you probably changed all the ignition stuff chasing the misfire..
Someone here recently had a no start issue that was related to the relay.
Ended up being no ground to the relay socket, which ended up being a bad fusebox! (There was a bubble/break on the pc board)
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/07-lt-5-3l-sudden-no-start-crank.151033/page-4
You might...
Have heard that too!
But then, what difference does it make if it's backwards when the hoses are the same size?
It goes through the heater core backwards? Shouldn't matter?
Lots of cars have been like this for awhile. Not sure exactly why, but probably to help with the flow. Larger hose on water pump suction side.
Have heard mention of it minimizing gurgling sounds in the core. idk..
Maybe rhinoliner or similar on the bottom/front of the cab, definately put something in the rear wheel wells. You can really hear the road noise with the interior panels off in the back. The factory put some caulk deadener on the inside of the rear wheel wells already.
Maybe more jute padding...
That clamp can come off and be re-used! Just stretch out the clamp tab a little with a mini screwdriver and it will pop apart with some massaging.
I used a mini end cutting pliers like this one to tighten it back up.
Is the bushing stiffener noticeable?
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