What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Tonyrodz]

@Doubeleive Wes, you’ve installed TPMS sensors using the jack under then hitch trick haven’t you? Any issue getting the tire to inflate after breaking the bead? Just remove the valve stem? I have a 20- gallon air compressor so I’m hoping that will do it.

That was @iamdub who came up with that. Iirc he did use the ratchet strap trick to seat the bead.

 

[j91z28d1]

still looking for my weird sound/vibration. I'm pretty sure at 70mph it's the drive shaft. ugh. but the low hum that sounds like it's from the front that starts right at 40 mph. I was hoping was wheel bearings but after having it on the air and listening all around with the stethoscope. I have no idea what it is. not a single sound from the bearings, on the hub or the spring, front or rear. nothing from the front diff or t case. fluid in both look perfect. I'm stumped on that one. going to just have to let it get worse till I can find it. blah


rubber on the u joints is literally fossilized and falling apart. lol they do seem to have outside clips and not the nylon crap. I wonder if should break my own rule and try replacing them. I see rock auto has the gm ones for 140$ each thou.

 

[Doubeleive]

most mechanics just put some tension on the arm and smack the part with the cone shaped hole with a hammer. it deflects the hole and the pop right out without damaging the boot. I was skeptical but back in the days of working in a mustang shop, we dropped the k members out to do install headers, all the time. needing to pop the lower ball joints loose but not something you want to damage in new cars with a fork. after seeing it done once. I got a bigger hammer off the tool truck. one or 2 good wacks and they pop. right apart without hurting anything.

I haven't replaced the ball joints on my truck, but that's how I'd try it if you can get a clean swing.

we have a set of forks that go in a air hammer as shop tooling here. most of our stuff has king pins so I've never used them thou.

I have found that method usually works fine for smaller things like the tie rods, but did not work for me on these larger ball joints, that was the first thing I tried. but I also did not try hitting it super hard as I didn't want to crack the knuckle, I have knack for breaking things by being too rough lol
the tool I pictured above would have worked fine if I was removing the knuckle or something and re-using it

 

[Doubeleive]

still looking for my weird sound/vibration. I'm pretty sure at 70mph it's the drive shaft. ugh. but the low hum that sounds like it's from the front that starts right at 40 mph. I was hoping was wheel bearings but after having it on the air and listening all around with the stethoscope. I have no idea what it is. not a single sound from the bearings, on the hub or the spring, front or rear. nothing from the front diff or t case. fluid in both look perfect. I'm stumped on that one. going to just have to let it get worse till I can find it. blah


rubber on the u joints is literally fossilized and falling apart. lol they do seem to have outside clips and not the nylon crap. I wonder if should break my own rule and try replacing them. I see rock auto has the gm ones for 140$ each thou.

View attachment 452051

that doesn't look good but if they still move smooth then they are probably fine, the only way to really tell is to pull the shaft out and check by hand

 

[mikez71]

... I got a bigger hammer off the tool truck. one or 2 good wacks and they pop. right apart without hurting anything.

I haven't replaced the ball joints on my truck, but that's how I'd try it if you can get a clean swing.

Definately want the bigger hammer! I was flailing away until I changed to bigger hammers.
I like to use two hammers and hit simultaneously on opposing sides..

But, when you get tired of flailing around, it's not always synchronized.
I did in at least one of my upper balljoints.. Thinking about new upper arms with non-greasable balljoints now..

 

[j91z28d1]

that doesn't look good but if they still move smooth then they are probably fine, the only way to really tell is to pull the shaft out and check by hand

yeah I didn't feel like pulling the shaft. I was more looking for the front sound. I'll get around to pulling it another day.

half temped to order some hub/bearings anyways. maybe those skf hybrid ones? since at 166k they are probably do. but man, I thought forsure I'd hear something.

I guess it's an excuse to buy one of those mechanics ear things

 

[j91z28d1]

Definately want the bigger hammer! I was flailing away until I changed to bigger hammers.
I like to use two hammers and hit simultaneously on opposing sides..

But, when you get tired of flailing around, it's not always synchronized.
I did in at least one of my upper balljoints.. Thinking about new upper arms with non-greasable balljoints now..

since we were in the shop on a lift or was also easy to have a 2nd person pull done on a long pry bar, oddly that little bit of of load did seem to help.


but yes, I nice size hammer, just enough to be a solid blow but not to crazy was key.

 

[Doubeleive]

yeah I didn't feel like pulling the shaft. I was more looking for the front sound. I'll get around to pulling it another day.

half temped to order some hub/bearings anyways. maybe those skf hybrid ones? since at 166k they are probably do. but man, I thought forsure I'd hear something.

I guess it's an excuse to buy one of those mechanics ear things

I don't know, but you def want to get the correct size, I have some sitting in my tool box that I swore were the correct size after a deep dive in research (some years back) and they are too small........
from what I understand the gm u-joints are a special size and is why the oem ones are pricey
or it might depend on if it is 2wd 4wd, steel, aluminum etc

 

[j91z28d1]

I don't know, but you def want to get the correct size, I have some sitting in my tool box that I swore were the correct size after a deep dive in research (some years back) and they are too small........
from what I understand the gm u-joints are a special size and is why the oem ones are pricey
or it might depend on if it is 2wd 4wd, steel, aluminum etc

yeah, that 140$ u joint specifically said denali hybrid 4wd aluminum shaft.

I'll have to research it a lot. I. can't imagine I can them swapped without damage. probably look for a used one on ebay too.

 

[Charlie207]

Did an oil change today. It took me since the end of August to drive 6,000 miles. Used 6 quarts of 5w-30 Valvoline Restore & Protect, and whatever STP fancy filter was part of the AutoZone discount.

I noticed that the underside was completely leak-free, which I think is a 1st for any vehicle I've ever owned.