All back together and working great. Gears are a bit noisy at first wearing in but now are no louder than the nylon gears.
A comment on the assembly; from the factory there is a lower thrust washer on the lead screw side and a button block for the ball end of the shaft on the other side...
So far so good, other than a brief scare when I hit the Trans Fast Learn button in HPTuners and I lost all gears things seem really good. I restored operation by just reflashing the TCU with the tune and the test drive was totally normal. Only thing I noticed was it felt a little soft going...
I ended up being able to get the nuts off without too much headache using an electric impact gun. The troublesome clamp I disassembled and cleaned out with sandpaper. Overall the inside of the flex pipe looked fine, the outside just had a flat section about 2-3in back which makes the braid...
Emailed Sonnax about the use of just the valve body side of the ZIP Kit; the answer is yes as the rest of the parts are intended to compensate for wear in the pump which I don't seem to have after watching the pressures.
Dropped the TECHM + VB complex today and tore it down to inspect all of...
I'm dropping my headpipe(s) tomorrow to get to the trans TECHM, already started soaking the flange bolts with PB Blaster in hopes to get them off without stripping/breaking the studs. I'll try to keep a log of how it goes and what the flexpipe looks like once that's down.
I definitely have an exhaust leak in that location. Poking at it today while soaking the headpipe bolts and it might be the ball joint in front of the flexpipe as that is also a bit loose cold vs. my rattle comes on when it's at temperature mostly.
I'm having the same sounds and it turns out that the flexpipe just behind the rear most cat is broken (the outer braiding is swollen). Open the passenger door and start it to see if you get exhaust leak sounds as well.
Wondering how much that can be mitigated for regular lightly loaded driving with the DoD delete cam. Still need hightest for towing I'm sure.
I believe they are pseudo-Atkinson cycle engines which have a lat intake closing so it bleeds a bunch of compression back into the intake as well.
I'd like to know more about the way the swap works as I'm considering it (6.0L swap, particularly the all Al LZ1) as the next step beyond an AXN rear axle swap for making my Yukon XL into a decent towing vehicle for our scout trailer.
I only bought a single for $12 so worth keeping for a spare but not worth trying to bore out on the mill as the worm gears were also starting to chip. It might fit the slide adjuster but I don't feel like pulling that one apart just yet.
Ordered a pack of 25 of the shim/washers (16mm ID, 22mm...
Feedback on the eBay specials... Don't fit the height adjusters, the bore is too small. Güven gears sets ordered as I took both adjusters apart and the second was starting to come loose.
Now I accidentally cut the steel washer on one of the adjusters when it stuck to the the plastic gear you...
Does anyone one else have HPTuners 6L80 mods and a pressure gauge to check what kind of behavior they are seeing? I’m leaning towards just putting the ZIP kit in and driving it to see what happens. Worst case I have to pull the whole trans out and I’m just out whatever trans fluid I spill...
Drove it for around 30min with the gauge under the wiper, max temp was 189 on the DIC which matched the TECHM sensor value when I had a scan tool on it. Now I have done the HPTuners changes to pressures, slips, and a bit of turning on the 2-1 and 3-1 shift timings so I'm not strictly the same...
Nick,
I think it's the hydraulic part that's the problem, i.e. valves or checkballs are sticking when it gets heat soaked as it's only evident after 45+ min of driving when you come to a stop or get moving from one. To me that seems like the first step is to pull the full unit and put the...
Nick,
How required are the pump mods in the Sonnax and Transgo kits?
I think I’m having problem related to the TECHM hydraulic side of things so pulling that part in the vehicle is a no brainer to replace the check balls, valves, and springs but the pump mods would require dropping and...
Would still be good to know but this idea has snowballed too far for my goals so I'm going to stick with an upgraded 6L80 vs. trying to fit a 6L90 in. The AXN swap however is still in play but that's just a conversion U-joint.
The 1500 has a pair of ears mounted inside the frame to hold the box section cross member. I'll have to look if it's C-section to weld some nuts on to the flats or if I'd need to go rivnuts. I'm more concerned about the height of the mount being different. Up could be shimmed but down would...
Well the crossmember is starting to look like a much bigger deal than I thought, the 2500 crossmember is totally different to the 1500. I'm going to look at if you can mount the 2500 crossmember to the bottom of 1500 frame.
Howdy,
So I've found a used 6L90 locally which I know is going to have a longer tailhousing with a different U-joint. I'm also considering a 3.42:1 AXN out of a RWD Escalade at the same time so that's another U-joint that's different. With this combination will a GMT900 Suburban 2500 shaft...
Nick,
Is there a place you can buy a preassembled pump and bellhousing? Local guys seem to have gotten out of the game of doing job work so looking for a contingency plan if the pump is damaged when I pull the trans apart for testing and a Zip Kit. I can find new ones in knock down kit form...
Howdy,
Not finding an answer so does anyone know the part number for the transmission cooler seal(s) on the side of the case? Need to change my cooler lines and I don’t trust something that comes in individual pieces to come with all of the needed gaskets or to confirm it’s O-rings and a...
Nick,
I get your point about not wanting to hassle with this. I can’t find a listing for the size of the roll pins in the case for the parking pawl, Would you be able to measure one? I’d rather get a slide hammer kit with the collet style ends as I do have more uses for that sort of thing...
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