I seriously don't feel that its the transfer case. Last time I changed the fluid on that was 2016 (20K miles ago).
Can't tell for 100% sure if it's coming from front or rear. I want to say it's the front though.
Just dust. Nothing crazy.
So strange that the noise occurs only when cold and virtually disappears after a few miles of driving.
Like I said earlier it sounds similar to a manual trans driven in reverse.
Hey guys we have a 2007 LT 4WD and after I changed the front and rear differential fluid the Tahoe has a whine only when cold. After it's driven for a few miles it goes away. Noise is speed dependent and almost sounds like when you drive a manual trans in reverse. Like that high pitched siren...
Ok so let's start over on this.
Forget all about the transfer case and 4WD aspect that I previously mentioned.
The whining/siren noise is still occurring at speeds greater than 20mph. Only makes the noise when cold. After the vehicle is driven for a while the noise goes away.
Perhaps it is a u...
So this whining siren noise was gone for a while, but does come back from time to time only if it's cold outside and once the vehicle has been driven for a while and everything is warmed up it goes away. Could it be the tires perhaps?
Update:
It's been 2 weeks since installing the new (Genuine GM) purge solenoid. No check engine light and not one starting issue. I guess the P0442 and starting trouble we were having WAS due to a bad purge...
A big thanks to James aka Swathdiver for helping me get this figured out!
Update:
Yesterday swathdiver (James) was nice enough to come over with the Tech 2 to see if we could figure out the P0442 and check fuel pressure to diagnose the starting issue. Unfortunately the fuel system monitoring was not an option listed for my particular vehicle. Not sure if the 2007s...
Like one of these?
It would be helpful in diagnosing this hot soak starting issue I'm having. Nice to install a gauge on the rail that can stay there and just pop the hood to check it each time we start the vehicle to see what's happening when we get the intermittent long crank...
Thanks for your suggestions. So is there a definitive way to distinguish between a failing pump vs faulty injectors just by checking and/or monitoring fuel pressure during different conditions.
It's more like the cranks for 5-6 seconds and doesn't start, but then cranks and always starts on the second try, but with a sputter and very brief rough idle that normalizes.
Never happens on a cold start.
Is this a huge bear of a job in the garage on jack stands? I would most likely be attempting this solo.
Or better to have someone with a lift tackle it?
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