Last week I used my Autocal v3 and captured the logs and tune files for @BlackBearPerf to tune the Suburban 3500 HD. Paid my money for the new tune and sent the files off last night and received confirmation that I'm in the queue. They're the only ones I trust to do it after having such great...
Thanks for weighing in, Bill. Knew you'd have helpful perspective to share. So for the OP's benefit, here are the steps I would take at this point if I were in his shoes.
1. Verify that the coolant temperature gauge is reading accurately. Then, when the engine is cold, squeeze the upper...
I get it. I used to think so too. But I've learned through experience and research that a coolant temp of 235ºF is common when towing heavy in the summer heat with these trucks. Hence the margin built into the coolant.
The coolant itself is the limiting factor. A 50/50 Dexcool mix boils at 265ºF when fresh, so as long as you're not boiling the coolant, you're technically okay. If you do overheat, the thermal expansion of the aluminum heads will be greater than the iron block, which is how head cracks can...
YES. I have experienced this. Not the no-start, but the fuel gauge being off depending on how I park. Our driveway slopes away from the house at about a 7% grade. If I pull straight in when my tank is low and leave it parked for a while, when I start it again I gain between 1/8 and 1/4 tank of...
It’s come up a few times here but not often so it doesn’t seem to be a systemic problem with these. That said, when it has come up, replacing the fuel pump (has the fuel sender on it) was usually the solution.
I had this happen to me on a 2007 Land Rover LR3. Gauge showed 1/4 tank left and the...
I don't know the answer off-hand, but you should be able to easily calculate that based on the ID of the smallest points in the system. The only thing the larger lines would potentially do is 1/ reduce the frictional losses within the hoses, but that's only a tiny fraction compared to any choke...
The thermostat actually does the opposite. It's intended to help the fluid warm up sooner and stay above 180ºF or so, but it's proven to create more problems than it solves. Many owners of the K2xx generation rigs delete the transmission thermostat to prevent heat-related problems.
+1 to @PG01 above. Also check battery voltage. Are you sure you didn't remove any grounds in your work? Don't forget the braided ground cable on the firewall and the one on the front of the pax cylinder head. Did you remove the cable from the alternator to get the intake off? It runs right over...
For me, that wouldn't be a benefit. The coolant in the radiator heats up faster than the engine oil in the sump, so the radiator's oil-to-water heat exchanger in the end tank serves to warm the oil up faster - a benefit in colder weather.
I wouldn't have thought this to be the case, but it is...
I'm running the same oil pump in my 2012 XL Denali and I see the same oil pressures. Good!
On the motor mount, you're going to want some kind of heat shield in there or that rubber fluid balloon in the new mount will dry out and crack faster. I was able to get a new one in with the heat shields...
I went with 3 different cams before I found one I liked. The first had a little lope, which sounded good but was slightly annoying actually. The second was a BTR stage 2 truck cam with even more choppy lope, which ended up driving me crazy in daily driving. I thought I would love the sound but...
Different pump manufacturers use a different color of material for the same thickness o-ring. You always want the thicker of the two that come with the pump. If it's a Melling pump, then the green o-ring is the thicker (and correct) o-ring for a truck engine.
Denso is the OEM manufacturer. When I replaced mine in my 2012 XL Denali, I went with this one: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10450388&cc=1502531&pt=2172&jsn=493
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