01 Yukon Denali Build Thread

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Buggdave

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2015
Posts
103
Reaction score
236
Location
SLC , Utah
I would have a hard time going back to the 317 heads. Your compression would be down and your tune would need to be adjusted for it to be right, IMHO.
 
OP
OP
drdave81

drdave81

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Posts
239
Reaction score
367
Location
Waterford, MI
So I decided to just throw the 317s back on for now to get it running at least. I'll either get the 799s ported or get some other heads maybe next year, along with a NNBS/TBSS intake. I'm almost done, just seem to have misplaced injector O rings, so a new set will be here tomorrow. It also seems I need an O2 extender for the driver side upstream on the header, it's not even close to reaching. I was looking through @Rocket Man 's thread, but couldn't find anything of him using them. I should have it fired up this weekend, but have to wait for the tune files to come back from Blackbear so I have a cooling fan, since I swapped to efans.
 

Rocket Man

Mark
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Posts
26,004
Reaction score
50,862
Location
Oregon
So I decided to just throw the 317s back on for now to get it running at least. I'll either get the 799s ported or get some other heads maybe next year, along with a NNBS/TBSS intake. I'm almost done, just seem to have misplaced injector O rings, so a new set will be here tomorrow. It also seems I need an O2 extender for the driver side upstream on the header, it's not even close to reaching. I was looking through @Rocket Man 's thread, but couldn't find anything of him using them. I should have it fired up this weekend, but have to wait for the tune files to come back from Blackbear so I have a cooling fan, since I swapped to efans.
I didn’t need any extenders for the upstream O2 sensors and the downstream ones are deleted. I just read through your thread. Sucks about those heads but this way you’ll get to see the difference after you get that sorted out. Hoping you success in getting it up and running!
 
OP
OP
drdave81

drdave81

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Posts
239
Reaction score
367
Location
Waterford, MI
Finally got it ready, fired it up tonight and it ran great........ for about 3 minutes. Then something, somewhere came loose and was rattling around. I shut it down, let it sit. Started it back up and was still there. It's not a consistent, rhythmic rattle, more like something randomly rattling around, like a bolt in the oil windage tray or something like that. No idea, but it's not good. So I'll pull the valve covers tomorrow and see if there's anything obvious. If nothing is found there, it's coming out for a full tear down and rebuild over the winter. Less than ideal to say the least.
 
OP
OP
drdave81

drdave81

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Posts
239
Reaction score
367
Location
Waterford, MI
I fired it up again today to see if I can pinpoint where the noise is coming from, it's no longer making any noise.

Back during disassembly, I dropped a valley cover bolt, and couldn't find it for a while. I thought I found it on a crossmember, since the bolt I found looked identical to the rest of the valley cover bolts. Now I'm wondering if that wasn't the bolt I dropped. I'm wondering if the bolt I dropped went into the engine and was bouncing around yesterday, and at some point fell down into the pan, so it's no longer making noise.

So, a plus is it's not making noise, and it's likely too heavy to make it back up anywhere. Downside is...... I have a loose bolt in my engine somewhere yet........ assuming that's what it is. This is all a guess at this point, without tearing back into it.
 

Rocket Man

Mark
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Posts
26,004
Reaction score
50,862
Location
Oregon
I fired it up again today to see if I can pinpoint where the noise is coming from, it's no longer making any noise.

Back during disassembly, I dropped a valley cover bolt, and couldn't find it for a while. I thought I found it on a crossmember, since the bolt I found looked identical to the rest of the valley cover bolts. Now I'm wondering if that wasn't the bolt I dropped. I'm wondering if the bolt I dropped went into the engine and was bouncing around yesterday, and at some point fell down into the pan, so it's no longer making noise.

So, a plus is it's not making noise, and it's likely too heavy to make it back up anywhere. Downside is...... I have a loose bolt in my engine somewhere yet........ assuming that's what it is. This is all a guess at this point, without tearing back into it.
I hate that kind of nervous uncertainty. Hoping for the best. You could always remove the oil pan and have a look.
 
OP
OP
drdave81

drdave81

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Posts
239
Reaction score
367
Location
Waterford, MI
I got my initial tune back from Blackbear, bled the cooling system, all the usual post reassembly checks (plugged the MAP sensor in that I somehow missed and had a P0107 for), and test drove..... so far so good. Even drove it going out to dinner last night, put a good 25 miles on it. Not a noise out of it. If it is that bolt, it made it down to the pan. I'll do an oil change soon, once I get a few more miles on it, then change out the "break in" oil and get the assembly lube out. I'll see if I can find the bolt w/ a long flexible magnet I have through the drain hole in the pan.
I need to data log it and send that back to Blackbear yet and then should be all set. I don't think they modified anything w/ my shifting though, feels exactly like it used to. When they tuned my Silverado they definitely firmed up shifting, so I'll have to mention that.
 

Rocket Man

Mark
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Posts
26,004
Reaction score
50,862
Location
Oregon
If it fell down into the pan it’s probably in the windage tray and you won’t be able to get it out without dropping the pan. When I was replacing my dipstick tube it broke off flush with the block and when I tried to get the small part out that was stuck in the block, it fell into the pan. I tried the magnet through the drain hole but no bueno. When I dropped the pan I found out why. There’s little chance that anything falling from above makes it past that windage tray.
 
OP
OP
drdave81

drdave81

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Posts
239
Reaction score
367
Location
Waterford, MI
If it fell down into the pan it’s probably in the windage tray and you won’t be able to get it out without dropping the pan. When I was replacing my dipstick tube it broke off flush with the block and when I tried to get the small part out that was stuck in the block, it fell into the pan. I tried the magnet through the drain hole but no bueno. When I dropped the pan I found out why. There’s little chance that anything falling from above makes it past that windage tray.
Yeah, likely right. I was looking at a windage tray and pan I have from the old 6.0L I put in my Camaro, not likely it came through there. Now that it's dropped temps, I really don't want to get under there and drop that pan though lol, especially with Michigan temps where they are now. I think I'll keep going as is, since I haven't heard it again, see how things go.
Or I'll find a REALLY steep hill to park it on and hope it rolls out the back of the tray :rotflmao:
 

Forum statistics

Threads
132,360
Posts
1,866,626
Members
96,981
Latest member
12GMCYukon
Top