03 Denali, Service Ride Control, Lights flicker

[joefrog]

I bought a 2003 Denali in July to tow our camper with, and I'm seriously starting to think I got one with more problems than I thought.

it gives me the "Service Ride Control" error on every start up. Recently it's added the "Service Stability" and "STABILITRAK Disabled" (both of these only occasionally).

Every light flickers/pulses constantly -- headlights, radio, you name it. You can watch the voltmeter waver up and down from center. The alternator tests fine, and I just got a new battery.

Any advice on what to tackle first?

Thanks in advance,
Joel

 

[joefrog]

Anybody?

 

[Cerberus66]

read my post about light flickering:
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47708


I did not do that repair, What stopped my light from flickering was reparing the ground strap from the hood to the firewall.

Whats you will see is that the ground or grounds are usually the answer.


Welcome to the boards.

 

[joefrog]

read my post about light flickering:
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47708


I did not do that repair, What stopped my light from flickering was reparing the ground strap from the hood to the firewall.

Whats you will see is that the ground or grounds are usually the answer.


Welcome to the boards.

Thanks so much for the reply -- at this point I'll try anything!

Anyone have any ideas on the Ride Control and Stability?

 

[Pachanga02]

For the service ride control light you could pull the rtd fuse or get some new shocks. Stability sorry cant help you.

 

[Cerberus66]

I pulled my rtd fuse and replaced shocks with bilstiens, I didnt need to but I did anyways.

search rtd fuse and follow the directions come back with results

 

[DeepSeaFish]

As far as the Service Ride Control goes, is your air-ride compressor coming on at every start up? If not, you probably have a bad compressor or electric check valve that has gone bad. Common problem on Denalis and Escalades with air ride suspension, especially with higher miles. This will require replacing the compressor assembly. (Replaced mine at 92k mi.) If that's the case, steer away from the OEM and consult Arnott Industries for a replacement. Less than half the price of the OEM and a lot of guys on here swear by their products. If one or both air shocks are bad / leaking, your compressor would run all the time and eventually burn up causing you to replace both.
The stability light could be a number of things. Possible bad ground maybe, but doubtful. I'd start with maybe a wheel speed sensor gone bad or just a bad module. Between the two, I would hope for a wheel speed sensor...ALOT cheaper, but both would cause the light to come on.

 

[joefrog]

As far as the Service Ride Control goes, is your air-ride compressor coming on at every start up? If not, you probably have a bad compressor or electric check valve that has gone bad. Common problem on Denalis and Escalades with air ride suspension, especially with higher miles. This will require replacing the compressor assembly. (Replaced mine at 92k mi.) If that's the case, steer away from the OEM and consult Arnott Industries for a replacement. Less than half the price of the OEM and a lot of guys on here swear by their products. If one or both air shocks are bad / leaking, your compressor would run all the time and eventually burn up causing you to replace both.
The stability light could be a number of things. Possible bad ground maybe, but doubtful. I'd start with maybe a wheel speed sensor gone bad or just a bad module. Between the two, I would hope for a wheel speed sensor...ALOT cheaper, but both would cause the light to come on.

So if I'm reading the Arnott instructions correctly, I'm installing this set and removing the compressor completely?

Big questions are, how's the ride support? I pull a camper and need it pretty solid.

Thanks guys! Loving the responses.

 

[DeepSeaFish]

Replacing the compressor is not that hard of a task, but if you're unsure on how to do it, then you may want to consult a GM speicialist. The kit from Arnott comes with the compressor, new mounting bushings, and a rebuild kit for the dryer assy. Everything is a direct OEM fit . You will need to jack up the left rear of the truck and remove the tire for easier access. Remove the dust cover and it's held in by 3 bolts. The wiring and 3/8" air hose is pretty simple. If you're replacing shocks to, then I'd consult a professional to do that. But by the sound of it, it's not quite clear if you have leaky shocks. Did your compressor just up and quit one day or did it run and run and run til it died?? If it just quit one day and the warning light came on, then it's quite possible that just compressor is bad or the check valve on the compressor is bad. Either way in this case, just compressor is needed. Should not affect ride quality at all. Towing a heavy trailer will just make the compressor work harder and longer and it will come on more often when you come to a stop for more than 30 sec. If your shocks are not making a popping sound every time you go over a bump either...then they're probably ok.

 

[joefrog]

Replacing the compressor is not that hard of a task, but if you're unsure on how to do it, then you may want to consult a GM speicialist. The kit from Arnott comes with the compressor, new mounting bushings, and a rebuild kit for the dryer assy. Everything is a direct OEM fit . You will need to jack up the left rear of the truck and remove the tire for easier access. Remove the dust cover and it's held in by 3 bolts. The wiring and 3/8" air hose is pretty simple. If you're replacing shocks to, then I'd consult a professional to do that. But by the sound of it, it's not quite clear if you have leaky shocks. Did your compressor just up and quit one day or did it run and run and run til it died?? If it just quit one day and the warning light came on, then it's quite possible that just compressor is bad or the check valve on the compressor is bad. Either way in this case, just compressor is needed. Should not affect ride quality at all. Towing a heavy trailer will just make the compressor work harder and longer and it will come on more often when you come to a stop for more than 30 sec. If your shocks are not making a popping sound every time you go over a bump either...then they're probably ok.

It never ran at all -- I bought it in July of 2012, and the dealer I bought it from "neglected" to mention a crapload of problems, that one included. So I don't know whether it's a bad compressor, bad shocks, or a combination of both. I'd wager the shocks need to be replaced the way it swims around when I'm driving.