07 Valley cover

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j91z28d1

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if you jump to 23min in he has one that doesn't want to release and uses a scale remover as a little air hammer for it.


I was wondering since yours has probably never been released that it would be stuck with varnash. that red tinted stuff inside most engines, that doesn't really come off without spraying brake clean on it.

I've not done this myself, only read about it a lot. do you have the rocker arm off and the push rod in the lifter cup, so you can see it pop the rod out when it breaks free? and then push down by hand and pop it back into it's normal position. he says most of the time when it releases it will over extend and needs to be popped back do a bit before starting it.

I'd also soak the brake clean down the pushrod hole and let it soak into the lifter and valley hole in hopes it loosen any build up as a last resort
 
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crownvic31

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if you jump to 23min in he has one that doesn't want to release and uses a scale remover as a little air hammer for it.


I was wondering since yours has probably never been released that it would be stuck with varnash. that red tinted stuff inside most engines, that doesn't really come off without spraying brake clean on it.

I've not done this myself, only read about it a lot. do you have the rocker arm off and the push rod in the lifter cup, so you can see it pop the rod out when it breaks free? and then push down by hand and pop it back into it's normal position. he says most of the time when it releases it will over extend and needs to be popped back do a bit before starting it.

I'd also soak the brake clean down the pushrod hole and let it soak into the lifter and valley hole in hopes it loosen any build up as a last resort
Head coming off tomorrow. Im exhausted. Nothing helped this one. I am working in a in door public parking garage with hand tools. The rocker arm is off and the pushrod left in place. It bounces and bounces and bounces. The valve releases some but not enough. I push in the pushrod back down and goes way down.
 

j91z28d1

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Head coming off tomorrow. Im exhausted. Nothing helped this one. I am working in a in door public parking garage with hand tools. The rocker arm is off and the pushrod left in place. It bounces and bounces and bounces. The valve releases some but not enough. I push in the pushrod back down and goes way down.


damn it man.. that's a shame and a horrible place to work.

post up what you find when you can.
 

Dustin Jackson

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I would consider taking both heads off and removing the cam to inspect for damage and at that point you might as well rebuild it with new non AFM parts
 
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crownvic31

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I would consider taking both heads off and removing the cam to inspect for damage and at that point you might as well rebuild it with new non AFM parts
As much as I would love to do this but right now its not the time. My plans are to keep this repair as simple as possible and get my escalade up and running. I will remove passenger head for sure and inspect everything. Everything on the driver side looks good when rotating the engine. If I do remove the driver side head, I will simply just replace the lifters and push rods and keep everything esle. Ive never had issue with this truck. If it would have not been for the valley cover situation, I would have not been in this mess.

Is it just ok to replace the lifters and rods on one side of the engine? Do I even need to replace the pushrods?
 
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donjetman

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Don't put new lifters on a damaged cam or you'll be back in there sooner than later.
 
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crownvic31

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Don't put new lifters on a damaged cam or you'll be back in there sooner than later.
So if the cam is good then I can just replace that side or just do the one?

Lets remember that the knocking was only about 3 mins and then it just stopped and the misfire started. How much demage could had happen in that short time while just idling?

It had zero issues until this damn valley plate swap. Man do I regreat this.
 
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Geotrash

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So if the cam is good then I can just replace that side or just do the one?

Lets remember that the knocking was only about 3 mins and then it just stopped and the misfire started. How much demage could had happen in that short time while just idling?

It had zero issues until this damn valley plate swap. Man do I regreat this.
If you're planning to replace the lifters with the same type that comes out, then yes you can just replace the lifters on one side. Be sure to replace the lifter trays also with *new* OEM only. If none of the pushrods are bent or damaged, then you can reuse them. Get a really good look at that cam though - Don is 100% correct.
 
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crownvic31

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If you're planning to replace the lifters with the same type that comes out, then yes you can just replace the lifters on one side. Be sure to replace the lifter trays also with *new* OEM only. If none of the pushrods are bent or damaged, then you can reuse them. Get a really good look at that cam though - Don is 100% correct.
Thanks. Yes i will look real good at it once the lifters are removed. The front and back of the shaft look real real good. Truck has 130k miles.
 

j91z28d1

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check that you can find oem afm lifters. for a while they were hard to find and like said above. anything but the oem lifters and plastic trays seems to be a temp fix. they seem to be pretty expensive too

pulling the head in a parking lot is brutal and without air tools. you do what you gotta do but ouch.

would love to know what you find out after you get it all back and running. the lifter moving a bit but not popping up completely is rough... I haven't seen any comments or anything about that happening. The general consensus seemed to have been they were either stuck or not stuck.
 

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