07 Yukon Denali Stalls After Driving 13 miles

[bowtiegurl]

2007 Yukon Denali 6.2 liter 240,000 miles stalls after driving 13 miles, Cranks but does not start till is sits for 20+ minutes. Has 5 codes; P0011 Intake Camshaft Position System Performance, P0420 Catalyst System Low Efficiency, P0332 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Voltage, C0660-06 Level Control Exhaust Solenoid Valve Circuit-Low Voltage/Open, C0299 Brake Booster Large Vacuum Leak Detected.
Truck was running great then a buddy took my gauge cluster out to solder whatever was causing half of the cluster to not work. I did not drive it after he was done. The next day he came back to put a new coolant thermostat in and a new gasket on the timing chain cover (it was leaking oil). It could be a coincidence but after he finished that's when my Yukon started stalling after driving it 13 miles, cranks but no start for 20 minutes +.
Being a female, I don't trust shops. They like saying more is wrong than what really is and overcharging. Please any solid advice will be much appreciated.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

I cannot personally help you with your question; however, other members on this Forum that are much more knowledgeable than me will chime in.

 

[Geotrash]

2007 Yukon Denali 6.2 liter 240,000 miles stalls after driving 13 miles, Cranks but does not start till is sits for 20+ minutes. Has 5 codes; P0011 Intake Camshaft Position System Performance, P0420 Catalyst System Low Efficiency, P0332 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Voltage, C0660-06 Level Control Exhaust Solenoid Valve Circuit-Low Voltage/Open, C0299 Brake Booster Large Vacuum Leak Detected.
Truck was running great then a buddy took my gauge cluster out to solder whatever was causing half of the cluster to not work. I did not drive it after he was done. The next day he came back to put a new coolant thermostat in and a new gasket on the timing chain cover (it was leaking oil). It could be a coincidence but after he finished that's when my Yukon started stalling after driving it 13 miles, cranks but no start for 20 minutes +.
Being a female, I don't trust shops. They like saying more is wrong than what really is and overcharging. Please any solid advice will be much appreciated.

You have multiple issues with those codes, but the one that's causing your engine not to start is a fairly common one on that engine. It's usually the cam phaser which is relatively easy to replace, but could be made worse by low oil pressure because the phaser requires good oil pressure to function properly. Since the timing cover was off, I would suspect the phaser as it may have been disturbed OR the cam position sensor may have been disturbed. I would take it to a shop that gets top-notch reviews and ask them to replace both the cam phaser and the cam position sensor.

In the meantime, if it stalls again, you may be able to get it started by holding the gas pedal to the floor while cranking the engine for 10 seconds and then releasing the pedal.

The brake booster leak is likely an easy fix. there is a hose that runs from the booster to the manifold. The booster looks like a steel whoopee cushion mounted to the firewall in front of the driver with the master brake cylinder attached. Check the hose that runs from this to the intake manifold to make sure it's securely attached on both ends.

 

[bowtiegurl]

You have multiple issues with those codes, but the one that's causing your engine not to start is a fairly common one on that engine. It's usually the cam phaser which is relatively easy to replace, but could be made worse by low oil pressure because the phaser requires good oil pressure to function properly. Since the timing cover was off, I would suspect the phaser as it may have been disturbed OR the cam position sensor may have been disturbed. I would take it to a shop that gets top-notch reviews and ask them to replace both the cam phaser and the cam position sensor.

In the meantime, if it stalls again, you may be able to get it started by holding the gas pedal to the floor while cranking the engine for 10 seconds and then releasing the pedal.

The brake booster leak is likely an easy fix. there is a hose that runs from the booster to the manifold. The booster looks like a steel whoopee cushion mounted to the firewall in front of the driver with the master brake cylinder attached. Check the hose that runs from this to the intake manifold to make sure it's securely attached on both ends.

Thank you very much for your advice. I just scheduled an appointment with a reputable shop. I hope it is just those two things as you stated. What you recommended if it stalls again is the only way it will start back up. Have to keep the pedal to the floor and turn the key a couple of times then she runs great till the next day whenever it decides to stall again. I will update once it's in the shop.

 

[Geotrash]

Thank you very much for your advice. I just scheduled an appointment with a reputable shop. I hope it is just those two things as you stated. What you recommended if it stalls again is the only way it will start back up. Have to keep the pedal to the floor and turn the key a couple of times then she runs great till the next day whenever it decides to stall again. I will update once it's in the shop.

Happy to help. When you're able please let us know what your oil pressure gauge shows at idle when the engine is warm and while driving. That will tell us if low oil pressure is a complicating factor here.

 

[swathdiver]

2007 Yukon Denali 6.2 liter 240,000 miles stalls after driving 13 miles, Cranks but does not start till is sits for 20+ minutes. Has 5 codes; P0011 Intake Camshaft Position System Performance, P0420 Catalyst System Low Efficiency, P0332 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Voltage, C0660-06 Level Control Exhaust Solenoid Valve Circuit-Low Voltage/Open, C0299 Brake Booster Large Vacuum Leak Detected.
Truck was running great then a buddy took my gauge cluster out to solder whatever was causing half of the cluster to not work. I did not drive it after he was done. The next day he came back to put a new coolant thermostat in and a new gasket on the timing chain cover (it was leaking oil). It could be a coincidence but after he finished that's when my Yukon started stalling after driving it 13 miles, cranks but no start for 20 minutes +.
Being a female, I don't trust shops. They like saying more is wrong than what really is and overcharging. Please any solid advice will be much appreciated.

She gone?

 

[bowtiegurl]

She gone?

I am back. Denali still has the same issue. The reputable shop wasn't so reputable. Tried saying it needs a whole need engine. The motor runs strong other than the stalling. So much has been replaced but still continues to stall after it warms up and while slowing down. The only way to keep it from stalling is to put it in neutral and lightly revving the engine up when slowing down or coming to a stop. I did notice the oil pressure drops to around 10-12 on the dash gauge when it's going to stall. While driving I can watch the oil pressure gauge slowly keep going lower.

 

[Geotrash]

I am back. Denali still has the same issue. The reputable shop wasn't so reputable. Tried saying it needs a whole need engine. The motor runs strong other than the stalling. So much has been replaced but still continues to stall after it warms up and while slowing down. The only way to keep it from stalling is to put it in neutral and lightly revving the engine up when slowing down or coming to a stop. I did notice the oil pressure drops to around 10-12 on the dash gauge when it's going to stall. While driving I can watch the oil pressure gauge slowly keep going lower.

Bummer. Can you tell us what they replaced exactly?

 

[swathdiver]

2007 Yukon Denali 6.2 liter 240,000 miles stalls after driving 13 miles, Cranks but does not start till is sits for 20+ minutes. Has 5 codes; P0011 Intake Camshaft Position System Performance, P0420 Catalyst System Low Efficiency, P0332 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Voltage, C0660-06 Level Control Exhaust Solenoid Valve Circuit-Low Voltage/Open, C0299 Brake Booster Large Vacuum Leak Detected.
Truck was running great then a buddy took my gauge cluster out to solder whatever was causing half of the cluster to not work. I did not drive it after he was done. The next day he came back to put a new coolant thermostat in and a new gasket on the timing chain cover (it was leaking oil). It could be a coincidence but after he finished that's when my Yukon started stalling after driving it 13 miles, cranks but no start for 20 minutes +.
Being a female, I don't trust shops. They like saying more is wrong than what really is and overcharging. Please any solid advice will be much appreciated.

The cam phaser code can make it stall and while it does need to be addressed I think one of the other issues is causing it to stall.

The bad cat on the driver's side can cause an engine to stall and they can be predictable like you are experiencing.

Finally, that brake booster vacuum leak code can also cause an engine to stall.

None of these repairs require replacement of the engine.

I'm leaning towards the catalyst but refresh our memories as to what's been done since.

 

[j91z28d1]

I don't know if these trucks do it. but at work I've seen booster go bad and internal leak vacuum so bad, when you step on the brake they try to stall the engine. this is carbed stuff so nothing to compensate like the efi can.

has anyone heard of that? the vac leak code made me think of seeing that.