17 Yukon 4” ReadyLIFT SST Lift

[AZ6148]

The biggest variable seems to be what factory controls arms you have originally and what kit will fit them. Think it has mostly to do with the size of the hole in the knuckle for the upper ball joint being different from one UCA to the next.

I can't comment much on comparisons between 6" kits because I didn't want to got that tall this time around. Can tell you comparing the 4" though (excluding the BDS) that Readylift seems to get the most front height, right/wrong/indifferent. Folks who have installed the Fabtech seem to usually add a lower strut spacer to get more height to match up to the 3" rear lift. The Tuff Country would be similar to the Fabtech because looking at the instructions you need to buzz the top of the strut studs off for their spacer (same with Fabtech) and you don't need to do that with Readylift, so the Readylift front spacer is indeed taller. The tuff country has a 2" rear lift. So Readylift Front 4 / Rear 3, Fabtech 3/3, Tuff Country 3/2.

Hope that helps. Again, would think any would fit 2WD as long as the UCA's are right, you'll just end up with diff drop parts you don't need.

Helped out tremendously! Thanks!!!

 

[STORMIN08]

https://www.readylift.com/blog/2017/07/11/upper-control-arms/

here is some info on GM arms

 

[nick14226]

Dirty again, but got the Amp Research PowerSteps done this weekend. I think they make a huge difference over the stock running boards.

 

[Nokturnal]

Huge difference and nice and tidy all tucked away.

“Did you lift your whip some more?!”

“No, that’s just the AMP steps.”

 

[STORMIN08]

upon revisiting some of these threads... the mention of trimming the bump stop is not uncommon...but your appear to be stock, my vehicle has zero suspension mods, and my bumps are 3/8" thick pads.

any chance (no rush) of getting one more picture. i would like to see the front wheel turned all the way (either direction), and a picture through the wheel (wheel still installed) at the distance from wheel to upper control front of vehicle.

similar to this...

 

[nick14226]

upon revisiting some of these threads... the mention of trimming the bump stop is not uncommon...but your appear to be stock, my vehicle has zero suspension mods, and my bumps are 3/8" thick pads.

any chance (no rush) of getting one more picture. i would like to see the front wheel turned all the way (either direction), and a picture through the wheel (wheel still installed) at the distance from wheel to upper control front of vehicle.

similar to this...
View attachment 269442

Correct, the droop stop bumper/pads are original thickness. With the suspensionmaxx 2.5” they advise you to trim them down to 1/8”, which I did, but replaced them with full thickness with the readylift sst. I noticed with the fabtech 3” the instructions show chopping the droop stop itself right off. Seems to me the droop stop serves a purpose to protect struts, cv’s, and ball joints by limiting travel, so didn’t like the idea of not having them. Unless UCA’s are making contact during normal driving and making for a harsh ride, but then the replacement UCA geometry probably isn’t right.

So you’re looking for a pic looking down that shows how much space there is between the wheel/tire and the UCA at full lock? Noting I have 4.5” back space and a bit narrow tire at 285. If so I can do that.

 

[STORMIN08]

agree totally on the geometry and need, hence the reason i may trim off and reinstall allowing a full thickness pad to maintain softening the hit.

yes, just looking for different wheel offsets and how much clearance each offers, since you have replacement upper arms, an installed top view will really highlight how much change has been made to the front leg location.

i am hoping i can make an aftermarket arm work with my stock wheels...for now. 22x9 (+24)

 

[nick14226]

@STORMIN08 , here you go, drivers side full lock right turn. Assuming you don’t want to run spacers, but bora 1.25” worked well for me on both sets of the 22’s I was running.

 

[STORMIN08]

Good deal, assuming this is No Spacer as you have a -24 offset...thus an inch further out than my current wheel, or probably more like 3/4" accounting for the 10" wide

also, just curious...is your brake line that tight at full lock ? Looks stretched

 

[nick14226]

Correct, no spacer in pic, 20x10 -24 wheels.

Yeah, I noticed that with the brake line before and didn’t love it, it’s not tight tight, I can move it freely with little resistance, but I’d like to see a little more slack there. The mounting point is fixed on the UCA for the brake line bracket, so don’t think it would be easy to create more slack there. The pic reminded me to look at it closer though this weekend.