03 Escalade suspension issue

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bigJay63

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i bought this 2003 cadillac escalade
finally got the engine to run smooth,

now while driving it on the road, i seems to be very bouncy

i dont think the air suspension works. since i get a message on the dash "service air ride suspension"

whats the best route to go about it. can i replace the rear air shocks with gas shocks?
 
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bigJay63

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If air suspension is not working, lets start with why. Is there leaks and if so, where are they? Compressor working? Fuse/relays working? Basics first.
i did scan it but it gave me a bunch of codes, failed sensors and compressor doesnt even turn on. so i figured the cheapest way is to swap to normal suspension?
 

ivin74

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i bought this 2003 cadillac escalade
finally got the engine to run smooth,

now while driving it on the road, i seems to be very bouncy

i dont think the air suspension works. since i get a message on the dash "service air ride suspension"

whats the best route to go about it. can i replace the rear air shocks with gas shocks?
As a temporary fix remove the wire connectors from the rear shocks, that will soften the suspension.

The real fix is to replace the rear shocks.
 
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bigJay63

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As a temporary fix remove the wire connectors from the rear shocks, that will soften the suspension.

The real fix is to replace the rear shocks.
the rear shocks look in good shape, seems like they were replaced a few years ago. its just that the compressor does not even turn on. i will see if i can get it to turn on
 

SilverSport

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were those shocks replaced with the correct shock absorbers?...if you get rid of your Autoride shocks I believe you also have to replace the rear springs...further you will need to do something to keep warning signals from happening...

Good luck with your Escalade

Bill
 

Joseph Garcia

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You've received some great advice above. You said that you scanned it and received some codes. Did you use a quality bi-directional scanner to read those codes? I ask because a quality bi-directional scanner will not only read codes, but it will also allow you to actually test the functionality of the various components of the active suspension system. This allows you to find the root cause of your issue quite easily.

I've had my truck with both passive (was that way when I bought it) and active (reverted back to OEM active) suspensions, and IMO, the OEM active suspension is far superior. I will say that it can be a matter of personal choice, as some folks on this Forum prefer an aftermarket Passive suspension.

I would start with checking out the compressor first. The compressor is easy to manually check out to see if it will run with a direct 12 volt feed. If you cannot get the compressor to start, it is easy to replace if you do any wrenching, and it will cost you about $300 for the compressor. Purchase with an OEM compressor or a Dorman compressor, only.

Once you get a working compressor, you can then check for air leaks in the tubing and the rear shock bladders, using the soapy water mixture in a spray bottle. These are usually the two most common points of failure on this active suspension. If the shocks require replacement, the GM OEM shocks are now guaranteed for life, and you should be able to purchase them for under $400 each, using RockAuto.com or GMPartsDirect.com, much cheaper than from the dealer. The rear shocks are easy to replace.

If you get to this point with a good compressor and rear shocks, and you still don't have a running active suspension system, get back to us, and we will walk you through the next steps for further diagnosis of other components of this active suspension system.
 
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bigJay63

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You've received some great advice above. You said that you scanned it and received some codes. Did you use a quality bi-directional scanner to read those codes? I ask because a quality bi-directional scanner will not only read codes, but it will also allow you to actually test the functionality of the various components of the active suspension system. This allows you to find the root cause of your issue quite easily.

I've had my truck with both passive (was that way when I bought it) and active (reverted back to OEM active) suspensions, and IMO, the OEM active suspension is far superior. I will say that it can be a matter of personal choice, as some folks on this Forum prefer an aftermarket Passive suspension.

I would start with checking out the compressor first. The compressor is easy to manually check out to see if it will run with a direct 12 volt feed. If you cannot get the compressor to start, it is easy to replace if you do any wrenching, and it will cost you about $300 for the compressor. Purchase with an OEM compressor or a Dorman compressor, only.

Once you get a working compressor, you can then check for air leaks in the tubing and the rear shock bladders, using the soapy water mixture in a spray bottle. These are usually the two most common points of failure on this active suspension. If the shocks require replacement, the GM OEM shocks are now guaranteed for life, and you should be able to purchase them for under $400 each, using RockAuto.com or GMPartsDirect.com, much cheaper than from the dealer. The rear shocks are easy to replace.

If you get to this point with a good compressor and rear shocks, and you still don't have a running active suspension system, get back to us, and we will walk you through the next steps for further diagnosis of other components of this active suspension system.


thank you guys i will try to get the air compressor running and go from there.
 

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