17's on my Denali?

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petethepug

Michael
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Interesting, I stand corrected. 17’s will fit on our NNBS. My first thought was using the 17” aluminum rims off the NBS Denali. They’re tuff as nuts, aluminum and don’t deteriorate in rust belt.



Thread '20" wheels to 17"'
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/20-wheels-to-17.134254/

IMG_2846.jpeg

The above thread has info on it. I had heard some NNBS had smaller rotors and/or calipers. They’re all 330 fr -345mm rear rotors.

The only exception is 07/08 LY2 4.8 V8 w/ rear drums. The 09 4.8L got 20mm (vs 30mm) wide discs in back that year. If you mix the 20mm w/ the 30mm you got problems

Thread '2 Different Size Rear Rotors (Long with Cliff Notes)'
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2-different-size-rear-rotors-long-with-cliff-notes.95007/
 

Marky Dissod

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What are the pertinent differences between the front brakes on, say, a 2010 Suburban, vs a 2010 Yukon XL Denali?

There's 4 18" x 8.5" Chevy wheels:
20937769 / PZX
20937771 / RD1
23205585 / RCV
23480949 / REG

And three 18" by 8.5" GMC wheels:
20937768 / RCW
20937770 / UHN
20942022 / RT5

Previous owner of my Z71 equipped it with UHN wheels.
Forgot to mention a few things:
No Caddy Escalade 18" by 8.5" wheels. Only one Escalade 18" by 8.0" wheel, available in two finishes.
It won't handle as well as the Chevy / GMC 18" by 8.5" wheels.

The N93 / N94 17" by 7.5" Caddy wheel is a pretty durable option that'll always look great,
but there are 17" by 8.0" Chevy / GMC wheels that'll handle better, if handling is a priority.
How do I make use of Denali / Escalade brakes?
Are the Denali / Escalade front brakes functionally superior to the other GMT900 front brakes?
(Not really concerned about the rears.)
 

petethepug

Michael
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GM slapped the same front / rear brakes on all the full size 900 SUV’s. The exception being the 4.6L rear brakes.

Not sure why GM thought the same caliper / discs from a 4.6L 2WD Tahoe would be alright for a AWD 6.2L YXL Denali.
 

Noggles

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So I did a brief comparison between 265/70r17 tires and 275/55r20 tires because that is the size you currently have and would likely be going to so that the overall diameter stays the same. For most tires, the 20" tires were the same price, within 30 bucks or so of the 17s or were in some cases much cheaper. Like for Michelin Defender LTX MS/2 the 20s were actually $54 per tire cheaper. Plus there were more tire options to choose from in 20s as well. Might be a better idea to stay with the stock wheels unless there is something wrong with them and need replacing and even then I would stay with a 20 for the larger tire selection.
 

petethepug

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The factory 20’s on the YXL Denali still have a good amount of meat on the sidewalls. The best thing to look for when tire shopping is the tread wear rating and speed rating.


Get the highest of both. Tread wear obviously for longevity and speed rating for sidewall strength and more steel cords across the tread.

I run Z or W rated tires. They can handle a puncture for a hell of a long time before being repaired. Since there’s a lot of meat on the tread, patching from inside vs a plug is always an option.
 

j91z28d1

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my 2011 yukon denali came with 17s. I had wondered if someone changed them but from my rpo research it was considered a no cost option for people that say lived on gravel roads and needed the softer ride.

I thought about getting some bigger take offs, but the 17s ride really nice and cheaper tires. so eh.

hptuners can easily adjust for any size tires you end up with.
 

EvergreenZ71

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The other easy test is to see what your OEM spare tire is.

My used 2009 LTZ 6.2L Tahoe 4x4 came with OEM 20” rims on the axels and a 17” full size spare (with the original tire by date). Swapping to 17” tires was my first change … replacing the 11 year old spare was too.
 

j91z28d1

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they are tight thou, I balanced my wheels with stick on weights instead of the hammer on lip they was there. made it about 20ft before I realized they hit the front calipers lol.

had to go back to hammer on weights. so they are pretty tight fit.
 

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